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radius arm replacement
radius arm replacement
I am just curious to find out wether or not it would be possible to machine up a new radius arm to suit the GQ/GU Patrol, and what setails/specs would be needed to make it engineerable?
any help would be greatly appreciated. Have included a sketch to give you an idea of what i mean.
any help would be greatly appreciated. Have included a sketch to give you an idea of what i mean.
Y do want to make new 1,s for unless u r goin to run a wristed arm setup like alot of the wheelers in the states run?
Wat are u goin or tryin to acheive
if your after and all out crawler go five link..............oor just undo 1 side front bolt on 1 of thearms similiar to wat they dunn in the ramp test in 4wd monthly ( Hypolux has seen this work on and old snake trip) just puts alot of strain on the other arm .......................... i might try it if mine ever gets on the trail but will most likely go five link EVENTUALLY
Wat are u goin or tryin to acheive
if your after and all out crawler go five link..............oor just undo 1 side front bolt on 1 of thearms similiar to wat they dunn in the ramp test in 4wd monthly ( Hypolux has seen this work on and old snake trip) just puts alot of strain on the other arm .......................... i might try it if mine ever gets on the trail but will most likely go five link EVENTUALLY
THe main idea for it is to relieve all the stress put on the radius arm pin where it mounts through the chassis and inturn with the right springs, increase flex a bit. What i am also trying to achieve is to get rid of the drop down boxes which are at the moment, reucing my over all clearance.
I had to add the drop down boxes to regain some control of my front end as it use to pick up the death wobbles.
One more point, i feel that these would be a simple alternativ to the five link setup, and should work in a fairly similar way.
They will also be custom made to suit the correct caster angles.
Shawn
I had to add the drop down boxes to regain some control of my front end as it use to pick up the death wobbles.
One more point, i feel that these would be a simple alternativ to the five link setup, and should work in a fairly similar way.
They will also be custom made to suit the correct caster angles.
Shawn
ive been working on these, i should have the final set ready in a couple weeks
if you are interested contact me off line
if you are interested contact me off line
[quote="COOP"] By the way Mr engineering Guru maybe you better get another calculator or learn how to use it![/quote]
www.indurooffroad.com
44mm and 38mm Roll Cage Tube
Eibach Springs SAW Shocks
www.indurooffroad.com
44mm and 38mm Roll Cage Tube
Eibach Springs SAW Shocks
if may I...
With this setup you can't get the flexibility of the 5 link...
What is going on with the OEM traction bars is that NOT the pin is keeping the flexibility but the 2 bushes on the axle....soo, all you will get will be less stress on the chasis side bushes...if any (maybe ball-joints...)
Gabriel
With this setup you can't get the flexibility of the 5 link...
What is going on with the OEM traction bars is that NOT the pin is keeping the flexibility but the 2 bushes on the axle....soo, all you will get will be less stress on the chasis side bushes...if any (maybe ball-joints...)
Gabriel
GQ MWB 105 ", DID Mitsubishi engine with big turbo, fiber glass body, Boogger 38.5/11/16, 2x8274, 5 link front, triangulated 4-link rear, SAW 14" and 16" coil-overs, , 5.1 r&p.
if may I...
With this setup you can't get the flexibility of the 5 link...
What is going on with the OEM traction bars is that NOT the pin is keeping the flexibility but the 2 bushes on the axle....soo, all you will get will be less stress on the chasis side bushes...if any (maybe ball-joints...)
Gabriel
With this setup you can't get the flexibility of the 5 link...
What is going on with the OEM traction bars is that NOT the pin is keeping the flexibility but the 2 bushes on the axle....soo, all you will get will be less stress on the chasis side bushes...if any (maybe ball-joints...)
Gabriel
GQ MWB 105 ", DID Mitsubishi engine with big turbo, fiber glass body, Boogger 38.5/11/16, 2x8274, 5 link front, triangulated 4-link rear, SAW 14" and 16" coil-overs, , 5.1 r&p.
DONT WASTE YOUR TIME.....
Shane,you would be talking about mine and Yans front arms,,,,
they were made of 40mm moly all tig welded johnnie joints in all pivot points.Had A go at making 2 different sets with different dissigns.It couldent handle the extra flex.the bush on the chassis was change from a pin bush to a 80 seri bush so you could get more drop,that worked well.you get a bit more drop out of this but a costly exercise.....
There is $300 worth of chrome molly in the 2 arm,not including the johnnie joints and the time welding....
Been there done it...NOT AGAIN...
mate of mine had both of his snap on the gorge run at LCMP,better there than on the road doing 100...
go pay for a 5 link,let them have the hassles of getting everything enginered,well worth the money.
Wizard performance has a bolt on 5 link with ajustable arm.that is what i have now and i am most impressed
trying to say you money.....
Bretto
they were made of 40mm moly all tig welded johnnie joints in all pivot points.Had A go at making 2 different sets with different dissigns.It couldent handle the extra flex.the bush on the chassis was change from a pin bush to a 80 seri bush so you could get more drop,that worked well.you get a bit more drop out of this but a costly exercise.....
There is $300 worth of chrome molly in the 2 arm,not including the johnnie joints and the time welding....
Been there done it...NOT AGAIN...
mate of mine had both of his snap on the gorge run at LCMP,better there than on the road doing 100...
go pay for a 5 link,let them have the hassles of getting everything enginered,well worth the money.
Wizard performance has a bolt on 5 link with ajustable arm.that is what i have now and i am most impressed
trying to say you money.....
Bretto
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