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I have just welded up a frame with a small stick welder and, well, lets just say I used a lot of hammercoat after...
The one youre looking at is a pretty basic unit, mainly good for stick welding but you can put the tig kit on it. I know a guy (another ebay seller) who imports these and he sold about 25 where i work, 1 didn't work and he replaced it straight away. I picked up a slightly more upmarket version, HF start, pulsed welding, adj downslope, 200 amp, stick etc for about 700, the only downside is DC only (no aluminium or Ti welding) I mainly stuff around with stainless anyway, AC/DC tigs are worth a shit load more. So far i can't fault it (and thats from a brand snob who won't buy stuff unless its the best!) If you can possibly afford it get the slightly better one, with the hf start(no scratchy tungsten contamination, just press the button) and built in gas solinoid - then get an auto darkening helmet! I shelled out for the miller elite (brand snob takes over!!)
Another thing, I know a guy who paid about a grand for a name brand welder almost identical to the one youre looking at, just a different front label, the guys pulled it and a chinese one apart and the only difference was a cable tie location.... one says "french technology" and the other says "made in france"....
There are no stupid questions, but there are a LOT of inquisitive idiots
Patroler, your Tig machine will weld Titanium. It's welded with torch on DC negative same as stainless and steel. You just need a big arsed gas lens and lots of gas flow.
Regards Andrew.
We are Tig welders, gravity doesn't worry us.
[img]http://www.studmonkeyracing.com/forums/smilies/weld.gif[/img]
runnin4life wrote:has any one ever herd of gold lenses for a welding helmet
im a first year sheety and one of the guys in my tafe class goes on about it and he said it makes every thing red or sumthing
i work with alloy at work and i dont think these would be any good im just curious as how they work and what not
he also said you have to put a plastic lense either side because if u scratch it its rooted
cheers
elliot
not sure with ali but i use shade 10,11 and 12 depending on what i am using,i also use two clear either side of the shade lens and a clear in for grinding,
Be very carefull on what lense's you use you don't wanna stuff your eye's,
a quick little test you can do is weld then take your helmet of quick and see how your vision is,i find when i forget to change lence when i lift my helmet i can't see lines or shit for a couple of seconds.
The gold lenses are called omni-view (thats what CIG calls them anyway) they allow the work to be seen in true natural collours instead of just the green colour that you normally get with a standard filter.
They are also made from polycarb so wont shatter if hit.
They cost a bit more than a standard filter but I have been told by metal fab guys that they are good as you can better gauge the heat of the weld.
would this work for alloy as well cus you have no real colour diffrence between the hot and cold thats ive noticed
alloy is a real challenge for me because ive never welded before except a bit of mig at skool and there like ok i want you to weld this up with this welder(tig) i just looked at them with a dumb look lol
but im starting to get the hang of it
but i wont learn any tig at tafe till the third year
runnin4life wrote:yer i use a shade 11 in my tafe helmet not sure whats in the work helmet i think its an 11 too but yer i wont do what the tradies do
they just close there eyes when they got to tack some thing up cus there to lazy to flick there head
cheers
elliot
After you've been "flicking your head" for 20 odd years you'll see why we just close our eyes / turn away / cover the torch with our gloved hand ....
As for shaded lenses.... I run 2 helmets, one has a 9 in it for light work IE: panel sheet up to 1.2mm sheet, and the other has a 12 for hot work IE: large beams & thick plate.
Far quicker to just change helmets then stuff around with lenses.
Kingy
[color=blue][size=150][b]And your cry-baby, whinyassed opinion would be.....? [/b][/size][/color]
yer
they are pretty cool but some can be dodgy
ide love one that looks like a skull
i have seen the tyoe that every man and his dog has but they look dodgy ide like a custom one
yea, a mate has an ebay one, and he reckons its great, would be for what he paid!, but he said after a lot of arc striking he had slightly sore eyes, (flash is cumulative), i went for the miller one i put the link to as it is meant to drop the light out in 1/20000th of a sec as opposed to 1/10000th of a sec for the ebay one (half the time) I can't notice any flash at all and haven't had sore eyes yet (might just be me).
The only downside is forgetting the auto power off and not pressing the power button before you weld - after sitting around for 15 minutes or so... d'oh! still lightly tinted tho.
I give you a lend if you were near ballarat!
There are no stupid questions, but there are a LOT of inquisitive idiots
yer i know how they are
they have some at work the speedy gas ones
only the fully sick tradies who are up the bosses arse get them
all the other tradies
and my self (apprentice have to use the other types)
i did find an old solar auto darkening one the only problem is the the head band part is stuffed
Be careful with auto tinting helmets when doing LOTS of welds for LONG periods
The lens takes a fraction of a second to darken when you start each weld. if you are doing a lot of welding the arc progresively burns your eyes during this short time over a period.
I use my auto helmet if welding for an hour or two but an old shool one if welding all day
You may not the sand in the eyes feeling but you are still damaging your eyes with mild burning
Remember you only get two eyse so look after them
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non illegitimi carborundum!
[url=http://www.suzuki4wd.com.au/forum/]Suzuki 4wd Club of NSW forum[/url]
not that i've got any of that lying aroung...
