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My mate Gary's old FJ40 has drums all round but he managed to score a complete front axle of a later model FJ with disc brakes.
We stripped it down prior to Vic Winch 2005 and most of the parts were taken as spares for my truck, just in case.
This is the first free weekend we have both had so we took time to rebuild it with all new bearings and seals through out.
So we thought we would cataloge it
We're not saying this is the correct way to do it, but here is how we put it back together.
See posts at the end for any corrections.
Tools
10mm,12mm,14mm17mm spanners
Brass Bar (Drift)
Large Flat blade screw driver
Outer curclip pliers are usefull (Genuine Free Wheeling Hubs Only)
Soft plastic hammer
Proper hammer just incase
Parts
Swivel hub bearing kit
Wheel bearing kit
(some paper gaskets will be replicated in these two kits so you will end up with spares left over and locking tab washers too)
5Kg of Suitable Grease.
Pack the bearings with grease just work it in with you fingers, as always their is a tool you can attach to you grease gun to do this but it aint in my box. or do what i do and get Gary to pack them, it his truck
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First seat the split metal ring in place, the grease you added here will help retain it.
Next the rubber ring seats against the split metal ring.
Then the felt, remember to line the holes up on the felt.
This is one of those job where an extra pair of hands is great one to hold the assembly together while the other fits the backing plates and screws. It can be done on your own though.
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Last edited by matt.mcinnes on Mon Nov 28, 2005 1:33 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Slide the axle gently through the oil seal supporting it as you do, with the flat sections on the CV top and bottom work the CV in untill fully located in the housing this may require a little twisting or even a turn on the diff just to aline all the spines.
The CV's were stripped and cleaned and repacked and taken as spares for the Vic winch for my truck wrapped in Glad wrap. So all we had to do was un wrap and slide in.
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The stub axle in place time for the second gasket followed by the brake backing plate.
Last but not least is the dust seal which bolts up to hold everything in place ready for the free wheeling hub andagin two pairs of hand is great here.
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Ok now thats all complete your ready for the full floating hub.
To remove or replace a CV reverse the section from the CV going in after you have removed the full floating hub which we will asemble now.
The bearing seats go in one each side of the full floating hub and must be done first as with the Swivel hub seats previously. The full floating hub also carries the disc rotar.
Sorry but i have no pictures of this, to have the disc rotars macheined they were fitted prior to this assembly. You will however have removed them when stripping the hub down.
When removing the seats you will find those nice Toyota guys have left a couple of cuts the size of a 5c piece, like the swivle hubs so you can tap them out for behind. (see pic 2)
When greasing the full floating hub i like to use a steel ruler this is ideal for spreading it around on the inner surface where required and the ruler scrapes the excess of too when you run it around.
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Last edited by matt.mcinnes on Mon Nov 28, 2005 10:27 am, edited 1 time in total.
Once the correct tension on the first nut is set the locking tab can go on followed by the second locking nut. Thighten the second locking nut up and lock the tabs over both ways to hold both nuts in place.
Then its time for the free wheeling hub first the Gasket followed by the hub.
Genuine Toyota free wheeling hubs have cone washers unlike my after market Warn hubs. Also the genuine ones use a retaining clip to hold the CV in place in the free wheeling hub where as mine have a stepped washer that bolts into the end of the CV performing the same job.
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Last edited by matt.mcinnes on Mon Nov 28, 2005 9:43 am, edited 2 times in total.
Last but not least the the free wheeling hub locking system.
First the gasket then the hub locking system.
I put this in, in the locked position and just with two bolts to start with checking the hub works before adding all the bolts.
All finished.
This is not a definative way of doing it and you should have a manual to work with too, but if its anything like my manual the pics hopefully will be of great help for those making there first attempt.
To strip down to the start just work backwards
Thanks to Gary for the use of his oh so photogenic hands and I thought I would let you finaly ge to actually see him.
Feel free to post any helpful additions as i am sure i have missed a few bits here and there.
Regards Matt
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Last edited by matt.mcinnes on Mon Nov 28, 2005 9:45 am, edited 1 time in total.
matt.mcinnes wrote:First seat the rubber ring in place the grease you added here will help retain it.
Next the split metal ring seats against the rubber.
Then the felt, remember to line the holes up on the felt.
This is one of those job where an extra pair of hands is great one to hold the assembly together while the other fits the backing plates and screws. It can be done on your own though.
Hi matt
Great write up
I think you have installed these incorrectly should be
steel ring first followed by rubber ring then felt ring
Steel ring is a scraper ring to scrape crap of the knuckle if installed the way you have the steel ring cannot perform as a scraper
I was told this by a mate who is a toyota mechanic of 25 year also i looked it up my Toyota landcruiser repair manual Chassis and body
Regards Hamo
matt.mcinnes wrote:First seat the rubber ring in place the grease you added here will help retain it.
Next the split metal ring seats against the rubber.
Then the felt, remember to line the holes up on the felt.
This is one of those job where an extra pair of hands is great one to hold the assembly together while the other fits the backing plates and screws. It can be done on your own though.
Hi matt
Great write up
I think you have installed these incorrectly should be
steel ring first followed by rubber ring then felt ring
Steel ring is a scraper ring to scrape crap of the knuckle if installed the way you have the steel ring cannot perform as a scraper
I was told this by a mate who is a toyota mechanic of 25 year also i looked it up my Toyota landcruiser repair manual Chassis and body
Regards Hamo
Could be, the first post said this my not be correct
I have only put it back the way it came off and as it happens mine were the same when first stripped down. My manual has no pics of fitting order as such So you could well be right, i have always assumed the metal ring was to pin and firm up the rubber ring so it works properly.
Two Vic Winch's countless bog holes and I have lost count of rusted out wheel bearings, but never any contamination in the CV when changed as a result of been blown or serviced.
I have been and checked and hes right so i have up dated the post though I am not sure if i should change mine as i have never had water in my CV's and pinning the rubber may help it seal against the surface it runs on.
Others thoughts welcome here.
My thought is maybe put a metal ring each side one to scrap and one to press a better seal from the rubber (mods always welcome here )
That's because it's nice product (Gary bought it actually) but i did point him in the right direction cant beat good quality and Australian made produce
Matt, great sequence of photos and commentry except for that shot of me with my nose in the fridge again. Many thanks for your guiding hand with the re-building of my front diff, swivel hub, disc assembly. I was progressing slowley with this project until the need for spare parts for your Vic winch challenge. while it was disassembled I cleaned the diff housing, had it sandblasted then re-sprayed it. Then purchased all bearings, gaskets, seals etc from Four wheel drives in blackburn south. At the same time I re-built the front prop shaft universals, yoke etc.
Again Matt, thanks to your journanistic tendancies and urges (and my well stocked fridge) we got the project re-assembled and almost completed. I just need to adapt the later 1982 tandem master cylinder/brake booster to my previously, remotely (after market) boosted 1973 single master cylinder. It is going to require an extension bracket and extended push rod to clear the curved firewall stiffening gusset and clutch master cylinder. re-run some of the brake lines and get a new stainless braided extension made up. Then it will be time to fit it all along with a re-built , later 82 rear diff unit.
Thanks again Matt.
Garry.
Old 40's last forever as long as you keep fixing the buggers...
'If ya didn't build it ya dont own it'
3rd Rock 4x4 member
Drop Bear wrote:Excellent write up Matt, very detailed with good pics, well done. There should be more write ups like this!!
EDIT: See pic below for correct knuckle seal sequence.
Think it took as long to resize all the pics and write it up as it did to rebuild the axle
But well worth it. I have taken many usefull bits of imformation from this site and its good to put a little back when ever you can and tks for the pic.
you will find the best way to pack a taperd bearing is get a gob of grease in you palm..not to thick so spread it a bit...take the bearing in the other hand and slide the biggest end along like a spoon...do that till grease is coming out around all the rollers
Take care with these they are easy to damage and can be a pain to fit.
Tap gently and evenly with a brass drift.
I'm sure their is a proper tool for this, but i'm sure like me it aint in your tool box
Great effort in your write up not trying to be picky but from the pictures when you installed the inner axle seal the seal appears to be the wrong way round, the seal lip/garter spring should be to the inside to seal the diff oil from the swivel grease. In general with lip seals the lip faces the substance you what to keep in.
Wally
THERES ONLY ONE SUBSTITUTE FOR CUBES AND THATS MORE and if you want more inchs stroke it !!!!!!!!!!!
so i have up dated the post though I am not sure if i should change mine as i have never had water in my CV's and pinning the rubber may help it seal against the surface it runs on. 
)
Nice product placement! 
