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Loose extractor bolts - HELP
Moderators: toaddog, TWISTY, V8Patrol, Moderators
Loose extractor bolts - HELP
Wondering if anyone out there can help me with my problem
I have a chevy with block hugger headers and the bolts that bolt the bottom of the headers to the collector boxes, keep coming loose - 4 on each side. I have welded M8 nuts onto the bottom of the headers so I dont need to hold them with a spanner when tightening the bolts from below.
On a trip on Sat I was left with one on one side and two on the other. So it was sucking air in, the oxygen sensors were saying it needs more fuel to compensate the extra air, so the computer would act accordingly.
I have tried locking washers, Locktite 623 on clean treads, startype washers, but I think with the heat expanding together with the vibration it makes them come loose.
There is not a lot of room down there to do much but ant helpful ideas would be great
I have a chevy with block hugger headers and the bolts that bolt the bottom of the headers to the collector boxes, keep coming loose - 4 on each side. I have welded M8 nuts onto the bottom of the headers so I dont need to hold them with a spanner when tightening the bolts from below.
On a trip on Sat I was left with one on one side and two on the other. So it was sucking air in, the oxygen sensors were saying it needs more fuel to compensate the extra air, so the computer would act accordingly.
I have tried locking washers, Locktite 623 on clean treads, startype washers, but I think with the heat expanding together with the vibration it makes them come loose.
There is not a lot of room down there to do much but ant helpful ideas would be great
worthog who likes to play in the mud, just follow me, if you can
thanks Zookie, thats a good product I never thought about.
I have emailed Loctite to ask them what temp it will with stand. Their product sheet does not give a rating, rather it says it with stands heat(how much?) and sets like a weld
Thanks again
I have emailed Loctite to ask them what temp it will with stand. Their product sheet does not give a rating, rather it says it with stands heat(how much?) and sets like a weld
Thanks again
worthog who likes to play in the mud, just follow me, if you can
God of Magnificant Ideas!
Hi temp silocone
apply to both gasket surfaces/ flanges, and on the bolt threads !
Also use nylock nuts
the plastic in the nylock nut will melt onto the thread and will then 'bake dry' ........ you'll have hells own trouble getting em off tho !
Oh ...... weld the BOLT in not the nut ! .... heat distrotion to the bolt head from welding wont effect the thread on either the bolt or the nut, however by welding a nut you weaken it considerably and the thread cut can be dammaged causing a less than desirable 'fit' to the bolt ..... hence the loosening !
For extream conditions I've fitted a brass nut then used a nylock nut as a 'locking nut' ....... works a treat
The other major contributing factor may well be in the zorst system itself, a poorly fitted engine pipe can 'pull' on the extractor flange ( usually to one side ), this in turn leaves enough space for the gasket to work itself 'free' ( for want of a better word).
Once the gasket can move its a simple operation to blow it out and then the whole lot comes loose real quick. A re-tentioning of the bolts can overcome this after an inital warm up but its a drama that will unfold in the future again. Better to cut and reweld the engine pipe around 750mm from the extractor flange joint to relive any twist tha may be built into the system.
Kingy
apply to both gasket surfaces/ flanges, and on the bolt threads !
Also use nylock nuts
Oh ...... weld the BOLT in not the nut ! .... heat distrotion to the bolt head from welding wont effect the thread on either the bolt or the nut, however by welding a nut you weaken it considerably and the thread cut can be dammaged causing a less than desirable 'fit' to the bolt ..... hence the loosening !
For extream conditions I've fitted a brass nut then used a nylock nut as a 'locking nut' ....... works a treat
The other major contributing factor may well be in the zorst system itself, a poorly fitted engine pipe can 'pull' on the extractor flange ( usually to one side ), this in turn leaves enough space for the gasket to work itself 'free' ( for want of a better word).
Once the gasket can move its a simple operation to blow it out and then the whole lot comes loose real quick. A re-tentioning of the bolts can overcome this after an inital warm up but its a drama that will unfold in the future again. Better to cut and reweld the engine pipe around 750mm from the extractor flange joint to relive any twist tha may be built into the system.
Kingy
[color=blue][size=150][b]And your cry-baby, whinyassed opinion would be.....? [/b][/size][/color]
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