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Tips for Purchasing a new Feroza
Moderator: Tiny
Tips for Purchasing a new Feroza
I am trying to write up a quick little article on http://www.warfs.org for purchasing a used Feroza. So I ask y'all, what are the things to check for on buying a used Feroza?
Here are the things I can think of (in no particular order)....
1) Is the exhaust manifold cracked?
2) When was the last time the timing belt was changed? (should be every 60 mi / 96 km)
3) If it still has the stock painted/chrome wheels, are they bent or are they able to be balanced?
4) This may seem obvious but in checking the car, does the 4WD work? (Like most inexpensive but reliable cars, they can sometimes be really beaten up).
5) What shape is the radiator in?
6) What shape are the front hubs in?
7) Does it have LSD?
8) What is the rust situation?
9) Does the engine light come on? (Check to make sure it works in the first place by putting the key in the 'ON' position, if it doesn't come on, the check engine light is either disconnected or the bulb is burnt.)
10) After doing a compression test, what does it tell you?
I am basically trying to hit the key points of what goes wrong on these cars as they are getting older. What else should I put in?[/img]
Here are the things I can think of (in no particular order)....
1) Is the exhaust manifold cracked?
2) When was the last time the timing belt was changed? (should be every 60 mi / 96 km)
3) If it still has the stock painted/chrome wheels, are they bent or are they able to be balanced?
4) This may seem obvious but in checking the car, does the 4WD work? (Like most inexpensive but reliable cars, they can sometimes be really beaten up).
5) What shape is the radiator in?
6) What shape are the front hubs in?
7) Does it have LSD?
8) What is the rust situation?
9) Does the engine light come on? (Check to make sure it works in the first place by putting the key in the 'ON' position, if it doesn't come on, the check engine light is either disconnected or the bulb is burnt.)
10) After doing a compression test, what does it tell you?
I am basically trying to hit the key points of what goes wrong on these cars as they are getting older. What else should I put in?[/img]
-jonathan
slc, ut, usa
www.warfs.org
1992 Daihatsu Rocky
slc, ut, usa
www.warfs.org
1992 Daihatsu Rocky
Most important things to check are:
- oil colour ...if it's dark and dirty and only been replaced recently, then you've probably got issues.
- does the engine "ping" around 3500rpm under load? If so, then DEFINITELY do a compression test, you'll most likely find that the motor is on its' way out. This is usually caused by too much timing advance when running 91 octane fuel and will kill these engines.
- check engine mounts, particularly left hand side. If the gearstick moves excessively under acceleration, then lhs mount is probably broken.
- the obvious usual things of gearbox/clutch noises, make sure shifting is smooth and clutch action should be same.
- check coolant colour and level...is it clean?
Ask the prospective seller about these things. If they're evasive, then either avoid the vehicle or bargain them DOWN on price. If they have no clue about what you're asking, then DOUBLE check the engine in relation to pinging, oil colour, etc.
Generally rust is NOT a problem in Ferozas, as the body is fully galvanised.
- oil colour ...if it's dark and dirty and only been replaced recently, then you've probably got issues.
- does the engine "ping" around 3500rpm under load? If so, then DEFINITELY do a compression test, you'll most likely find that the motor is on its' way out. This is usually caused by too much timing advance when running 91 octane fuel and will kill these engines.
- check engine mounts, particularly left hand side. If the gearstick moves excessively under acceleration, then lhs mount is probably broken.
- the obvious usual things of gearbox/clutch noises, make sure shifting is smooth and clutch action should be same.
- check coolant colour and level...is it clean?
Ask the prospective seller about these things. If they're evasive, then either avoid the vehicle or bargain them DOWN on price. If they have no clue about what you're asking, then DOUBLE check the engine in relation to pinging, oil colour, etc.
Generally rust is NOT a problem in Ferozas, as the body is fully galvanised.
bru21 wrote:What happens in goat, stays in goat!
The feroza doesnt have a normal sump gasket, instead has a seal on each end about 2" long, goo around the rest...
On mine the front sump seal is gone...
anyway to fix this leak will involve taking the engine out like i still have to do...
It is a fairly common problem with the feroza, worth sussing it out before purchasing one..
too much hassle for now so i just keep toppin it up... good thing i have a dirt driveway !
On mine the front sump seal is gone...
anyway to fix this leak will involve taking the engine out like i still have to do...
It is a fairly common problem with the feroza, worth sussing it out before purchasing one..
too much hassle for now so i just keep toppin it up... good thing i have a dirt driveway !
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Fear the mighty Daihatsu!
Im at 198000 km... Heres what is planned...
Sump seals
Timing belt
Dizzy O Ring (slight leak)
Throttle sensor etc. (see high erratic idle)
Fanbelt
Engine Mounts
Possibly alternator
I might rip the air con unit out too as i never use it
Thats bout all i can remember for now, i have everything except the alternator, but thats the next thing that has to go im sure, everything else has
She'll be good after all thats done...
Sump seals
Timing belt
Dizzy O Ring (slight leak)
Throttle sensor etc. (see high erratic idle)
Fanbelt
Engine Mounts
Possibly alternator
I might rip the air con unit out too as i never use it
Thats bout all i can remember for now, i have everything except the alternator, but thats the next thing that has to go im sure, everything else has
She'll be good after all thats done...
Fear the mighty Daihatsu!
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