Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
BODY LIFT HELP
BODY LIFT HELP
HAY IM JUST HAVING A BIT OF TROUBLE WITH BODI LIFT HELP WOULD BE APRESHIATED THANKS ;)
What exactly is giving you trouble? The more info you give the better the answer you'll get.
What part of your bodylift has you stuck champ?
Here's a pic that might help too...
What part of your bodylift has you stuck champ?
Here's a pic that might help too...
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
-Mal
Zook 1, 2, 3 gone
Patrol - Wheels, engine and stuff
Zook 1, 2, 3 gone
Patrol - Wheels, engine and stuff
Have a search, plenty of info out there. either build up a kit or buy a kit from a 4x4 shop.
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... t=bodylift
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... t=bodylift
cheers
Nic
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... t=bodylift
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... t=bodylift
cheers
Nic
[url=http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic.php?p=930942#930942&highlight=]Zook[/url]
U SUK Zook Built and Sold.
New rig is 97 80 DX. 2" list 33s
U SUK Zook Built and Sold.
New rig is 97 80 DX. 2" list 33s
bring your 4x4 over and i'll have a look and see how much work is involved i should be able to get the lift blocks made up for you as well i think i read some where that the lift blocks need to have a thread at each end so you can bolt in from the top and bottom not sure if this is true or not any little tips that anyone has would be great
it is just at the back behind the seats there is a bolt on each side which u cant get out so u need to thread the blocks to go in here u simply screw the block onto the old body bolt then screw a new bolt from the bottom of the chassieDAWSO 4x4 wrote:bring your 4x4 over and i'll have a look and see how much work is involved i should be able to get the lift blocks made up for you as well i think i read some where that the lift blocks need to have a thread at each end so you can bolt in from the top and bottom not sure if this is true or not any little tips that anyone has would be great
threded body blocks freak me out. definatly not the nice way of doing a bodylift as you will probably have to cut the studs shorter. shorter studs cant be as strong. the nicer more profesional way of doing it is to get some really fat bolts. drill and tap the inside of them. then you can just bolt up from the bottom. no tapping of the blocks and no cutting of the studs.
[url]http://www.vic.suzuki4wd.com/forum[/url]
Or you dont thread at all and take the seats out and all the carpet and then cut sections of the floor out where the head of the studs are and then drill out the old studs by drilling the head off. New long 10mm 8.8 bolts to replace the old. Tack the head with a thick washer to the body to make a new stud and tig weld the sections of floor back on and cover the mess with your carpet or paint. Long process but the right way to do a good STRONG job.
Don't forget to cover anything flammable in the car with a wet rag or bit of tin before grinding and weldin the #$%^ out of your interior example the roof lining and the door skins and dash.
Don't forget to cover anything flammable in the car with a wet rag or bit of tin before grinding and weldin the #$%^ out of your interior example the roof lining and the door skins and dash.
85 Zuk, 2inch body lift, 2inch spring lift, 2inch exhaust, 31" SIMEX, F100 rims, rollbar, welded rear, racing seat, custom barwork, new paint, rock lights, UHF
fsadfasd
tinyterror wrote:Or you dont thread at all and take the seats out and all the carpet and then cut sections of the floor out where the head of the studs are and then drill out the old studs by drilling the head off. New long 10mm 8.8 bolts to replace the old. Tack the head with a thick washer to the body to make a new stud and tig weld the sections of floor back on and cover the mess with your carpet or paint. Long process but the right way to do a good STRONG job.
holy moly
all that just for a 2" BL? it seems like too much work for me.
get HDPE (plastic blocks), cut to size, 2", get some steel bar, drill out and tap for the stud, put block on old stud, screw on drilled and tapped crush tube, and lower body, screw new bolt up from under.
1995 Vitara:
stock standard
WWW.DARWIN4X4.NET
stock standard
WWW.DARWIN4X4.NET
The internally threaded bolt (16mm OD) is the only way I have seen these done acceptably, but does involve machining etc.
The only modification it requires to the car is drilling out of the big steel washers on the bottom of the body mount bushing.
This way, all of the factory rubbers, stud, washers etc all work exactly the way the manufacturer intended. (and the car can go back to stock at any time)
The bolt takes the place of the small steel sleeve that sits through the rubber. The block sits between all the stock rubbers and the body.
The first one I built was about 6 years ago and it still in the car, never having had a problem. I have done about 10 since. They have passed engineers.
Any method involving cutting the stud, threading the stud, body blocks made from plastic, blocks threaded onto the stud, RHS etcetc are all junk IMHO and I have seen a commercially sold sierra body lift tear apart and the body start coming off the car (!)
I don't make the lifts commercially so sorry I can't help any one, but be very careful with what is available and think the work through.
I beleive forestf*cker on this board posted some very pretty photos of his design, which is the same as mine only CNC'ed from scratch rahter than starting with a cut down bolt.
The same design works on all sierras and vitaras.
The only modification it requires to the car is drilling out of the big steel washers on the bottom of the body mount bushing.
This way, all of the factory rubbers, stud, washers etc all work exactly the way the manufacturer intended. (and the car can go back to stock at any time)
The bolt takes the place of the small steel sleeve that sits through the rubber. The block sits between all the stock rubbers and the body.
The first one I built was about 6 years ago and it still in the car, never having had a problem. I have done about 10 since. They have passed engineers.
Any method involving cutting the stud, threading the stud, body blocks made from plastic, blocks threaded onto the stud, RHS etcetc are all junk IMHO and I have seen a commercially sold sierra body lift tear apart and the body start coming off the car (!)
I don't make the lifts commercially so sorry I can't help any one, but be very careful with what is available and think the work through.
I beleive forestf*cker on this board posted some very pretty photos of his design, which is the same as mine only CNC'ed from scratch rahter than starting with a cut down bolt.
The same design works on all sierras and vitaras.
[quote="greg"] some say he is a man without happy dreams, or that he sees silver linings on clouds and wonders why they are not platinum... all we know, is he's called the stevie.[/quote]
Just bought a 2 inch lift kit off rocky-road.com. Consists of 10 two inch spacers, 4 longer bolts , 6 body stud connector bolts and some washers. Just thought i'd post some pics (excuse the quality, took them with my phone)
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 0 guests