Engine Number Explainations

[mu-stu]

Was fiddling with the 'new' rangie on the weekend - pulled the air cleaner off and replaced with K&N Filter pods. Now the bloody thing runs like cr@p! Struggles to get up hills, spluttering under load but idles perfectly. Checked it aginast the POS in the shed from where I took the pods to see what was different. It seems as though EVERYTHING is different! The POS is a 1980 model and the 'new' one is a 1981. The motors look very different. Then I checked the engine number on the rego slip and they are completely different too!
1980 - 39802624F
1981 - CR813123D01433B

Can anyone shed some light on the engine number differences? Or better yet, the spluttering (the rangie's, not mine!) problem?

Cheers
Stu

[peter r]

G`day ,

the 398 is probably the original 80 engine .
the 23D is out of an 86 EFI Rangie .

The 23D is what is call the stiff block , has more webbing , more alloy to make it stronger also has better main caps and other bits . Less prone to fall to bits under higher revs than the 398 but still do .

If it was running ok before possibly either the pods are blocked or the carbs need tuning to the pods or poss something has been dislodged or crimped in the move like the vac advance pipe or choke mechanism .

Also may pay to check the dash pots have oil .


Peter

[justinC]

STU,
Have you checked that the carb link hasn't fallen off? This is a rod that runs between the two carb throttle linkages and allows drivers side carb to actuate when pedal is pressed. The cable only attaches to the passenger side carb, and requires this rod to make other one work in sync.
I have seen them fall of with little force because the ball and socket ends wear out.
Idle won't be affected at all if this rod is off, but you will only be climbing hills etc on the one carb....
Your CR8131 'prefix' is actually the compression ratio of the engine, CR8.13:1 is stamped next to or above the engine number.


JC

[justinC]

STU,
Have you checked that the carb link hasn't fallen off? This is a rod that runs between the two carb throttle linkages and allows drivers side carb to actuate when pedal is pressed. The cable only attaches to the passenger side carb, and requires this rod to make other one work in sync.
I have seen them fall of with little force because the ball and socket ends wear out.
Idle won't be affected at all if this rod is off, but you will only be climbing hills etc on the one carb....
Your CR8131 'prefix' is actually the compression ratio of the engine, CR8.13:1 is stamped next to or above the engine number.


JC

[mu-stu]

That's great guys. Thanks for your help.

[mu-stu]

That's great guys. Thanks for your help.

[peter r]

G`day aggin ,

Should have also suggested you have a look at the carb diaphragms .

peter

[Loanrangie]

Also check the oil level in the dashpots , the plastic screw top on the carby's, mine was running crap till i topped the oil up. I just got fed up with them and put a holley 2brl on, she purr's now.

[mu-stu]

Finally worked out the problem. Seems as though it has nothing to do with the carbs but the altenator not charging the battery, therefore not enough spark to keep the electronic ignition working. After being told the alternator needed reconditioning (by a road service authority) and spending $400 for it, I was told (after it broke down again) that if the Ignition light doesn't come on on the dash, the circuit isn't completed to click the altenator into charging the battery! Hence I checked the dash pod and found the wiring pattern on the back was broken in that spot which an inch of wire sorted.