buying a new Landy

[X-R-Cist]

Hi guys,
I havent been to this forum in a while, since i sold my patrol due to other commitments. but now im in the market again for a 4b and thought i would venture away from the patrol and go with something else.
mainly due to the price.
anyway i saw a landy and i fell in love with it. its a 2.5td 99 model 5sp manual
i test drove it and its got some balls, atleast compared to the patrol anyway.
what i noticed was that it doesnt have high range 4wd... now is this because it is constant 4wd? all it has is H-N-L but it is always on H and i have to press a button which starts beeping to put it in L.

i dont know it kinda threw me off and i didnt know wtf the deal was.. can someone shed some light on that.

secondly seeing as i dont know the axel from the tow bar about landys i was hoping that some of you may be able to shed some light on what to look out for in this model specific. i know what i should look for in a 4wd, as ive owned them for a long time, but not these.

whats the general feel about the 2.5td? is it like the 2.8 patrol that is gutless? (personal experience so far seems to point to no)

what are spare parts like? are they hard to get and expensive? what about services? expensive too?

as much info as possible would be nice, i will probably be buying it next week if the NRMA inspection checks out.

[one_iota]

The Rover turbo diesels have always "punched above their weight".

Can you give us some more detail?

It's a Discovery?

Constant 4wd (center differential) H-N-L suggests no centre diff lock actuator.

This one sounds like the Td5 (5 cylinder) as opposed to the preceeding 300 Tdi (4 cylinder).

[X-R-Cist]

sorry i didnt realise i didnt put in the model.
yes its a discovery, dont know which model but the chassis starts with SALLTGM (which i like to call "sall too good mate")
anyway here are some pics. i dont know what else to tell you guys, like i said im new to the world of land rovers, so go easy on me.
but if you need any more info let me know

[Micka]

What sort of wheeling do you want to use it for?

These models have no centre diff lock and relied totally on traction control for off-road use. It proved to be a mistake and LR have since put the CDL back in. You can get a CDL actuator after market which improves the capability of them.

The TD5 is an amazing engine. Bank on 10l/100km and you wont be let down. They are easily tweaked with a chip upgrade which makes them quite an angry little diesel.

Common problem with this model was in the front drive shaft. It came standard with a double cardan joint that failed after not too long. They are a sealed unit - not greasable - and don't enjoy a long life. And when they fail, you can bet it will be at 4000rpm with horrible results. That is easily fixed with an after market DC joint from Hardy Spicer.

They are very comfortable and would make a great family car/tourer.

Micka

[X-R-Cist]

im mainly after a car i can take off the road, nothing comp style or antying like that. just good challenging tracks, dirt, mud, sand, etc.
i dont want it for extreme modding or anything like that i just want to take the missus 4wding to stockton a few times and maybe round leura, nowra etc... nothing hardcore.

where can i get a CDL? and some more information on them and price?

so these babies drink 10l/100km? wow im impressed, the patrol used to drink like 15.

thanks for the info mate, kinda sheds more light on the disco

[Aquarangie]

The CDL kits are available from many of the LR specalists such as Graeme Coopers or AMV in Melbourne.

I personally don't like diesels that much, but the td5's are not a bad unit and probably quicker than my 3.5 EFI 87 Rangie anyway and use a hell of a lot less fuel in the process.

There's plenty of gear for the S2 Disco, just haver to know where to look.

Good luck with it.

Trav

[one_iota]

Well it's a good bit of kit but it is a Land Rover.

Plenty of recent owners will take them further than Land Rover really intended.

Initially you should check the service record. Regular and frequently is good.

Some other resources:

www.aulro.com

www.d2au.com

[Micka]

im mainly after a car i can take off the road, nothing comp style or antying like that. just good challenging tracks, dirt, mud, sand, etc.
i dont want it for extreme modding or anything like that i just want to take the missus 4wding to stockton a few times and maybe round leura, nowra etc... nothing hardcore.

where can i get a CDL? and some more information on them and price?

so these babies drink 10l/100km? wow im impressed, the patrol used to drink like 15.

thanks for the info mate, kinda sheds more light on the disco

If you do a search in the members section, Slunnie has done a build up of his D2 with a 4" lift and 34" Jungle Trekkers. It is an awesome looking rig, and from all accounts - both here and 4WDMonthly - it has the goods off-road as well. I think he has the upgraded ECU and the larger intercooler which would be putting his donk in the 160 - 180kw range . He has listed all of the mods he did to achieve this on his build up thread.

If you do buy it...make sure you check the full history. Get a LR specialist to do an inspection for you and have an auto lekky go over it too.

For off-road mods...you will want to do the ECU upgrade first. Worth every penny. Takes it from the factory 100kw out to around 140kw. If you don't mind the extra noise, a 3" mandrel bent exhaust will turn heads. I have this on my Fender. The rear overhang on them is big, so a steel rear bar will be a good idea - and it will allow you to get the spare tyre off the door. Just cut the rear sides back a bit and have the bar wrap around. That way, when you drop over a rock ledge, it will land on steel and not your pannels. It will have airbags, so a body lift is possible, but a PITA. Some good strong rock sliders in place of the plastic sills will be needed - those alloy pannels are $$$. And a good strong front bar. If you are handy with a welder, or have a mate that is, have a look at the bars on www.scorpionracing.co.uk They are good looking products that improve the angles and capabilities of your D2.

They are a very under rated 4b, IMHO. A few well thought out mods will see them eating up most terrain.

Oh...I almost forgot. Maxi Drive and MacNamara are the two best aftermarket companies for axels/diff locks/CVs etc. You will want to have a look at them, too.

Micka

[one_iota]

As Micka says they can be a very capable vehicle and there are a lot of tricks to be played to enhance it's inherent qualities.

Slunnies is a good example.

But it must be sound in the first place otherwise you will be "rearranging deck chairs on the Titanic" I have heard that injectors can be a pricey item.

Does it have self levelling airbag suspension in the rear?

Does it have ACE (Active Cornering Enhancement)?

And what mileage?

[X-R-Cist]

wow thanks heaps for all that info guys, im going to spend some time reading up on everything. last time i was duped into buying the patrol, only when i traded it in did i find out it had been ridden off in the past as it was drowned.

anyway i dont think it has self leveling airbag suspension on the back, i couldnt find a switch for it, and i didnt see anything in the cabin that resembles that
and ACE, i wouldnt have a clue
it has 170K on it at the moment

sounds like the disco is a capable car, with a few minor mods, like stated the ECU upgrade and the rear bar i should be set.

thanks so much for all the helpful links and information, if i do get it, you will no doubt see more and more posts from me here.

oh and Micka whats an LR specialist?

[Micka]

oh and Micka whats an LR specialist?

Bloody Nissan drivers....


L for LAND
R for ROVER

Not sure where you are, but Graeme Cooper or Bruce Davis for the Mexicans and MR Automotive or British Offroad for God's chosen ones. Or Chuck from Haultech...the guy is a walking google search engine for Rovers.

Micka

P.S. Welcome to the dark side...you will be infected FOREVER

[lexi]

A Land Rover Specialist mate is a bloke who rubs his hands at the other side of his huge windows......built that way so he can see you coming for all the parts you are gonna need. Cheap parts with big Aussie dollar price tags

Alex

[Aquarangie]

A Land Rover Specialist mate is a bloke who rubs his hands at the other side of his huge windows......built that way so he can see you coming for all the parts you are gonna need. Cheap parts with big Aussie dollar price tags

So bloody true, sad isn't it

Pending where you shop, still much more expensive than the UK.

Trav

[one_iota]

A Land Rover Specialist mate is a bloke who rubs his hands at the other side of his huge windows......built that way so he can see you coming for all the parts you are gonna need. Cheap parts with big Aussie dollar price tags

So bloody true, sad isn't it

Pending where you shop, still much more expensive than the UK.

Trav

But I'd rather drive my Land Rover in Oz.

I find that parts for my Fred Flintstone Disco are now relatively inexpensive.

But as you say you do need to shop around.

[lexi]

I take my hat off to you guys in Ozz who drive Rovers. I sold the last of my Rovers this year and have a Patrol Y60 cos here it really is something different as you may not see another one for a month. It shows how much I like the truck as the difference in spares prices is unbelievable. Thing is Nissan are selling on their back door in Ozz and are still ripping the piss with the spares prices.Yep there`s still something about a Landrover aint there. Wonder how long I`m gonna do without one!

Alex

[X-R-Cist]

oh and Micka whats an LR specialist?

Bloody Nissan drivers....


L for LAND
R for ROVER

Not sure where you are, but Graeme Cooper or Bruce Davis for the Mexicans and MR Automotive or British Offroad for God's chosen ones. Or Chuck from Haultech...the guy is a walking google search engine for Rovers.

Micka

P.S. Welcome to the dark side...you will be infected FOREVER

lol yes well you never really stop being a nissan driver
graeme cooper seems pretty good, thanks for the tips, now atleast i have a vague idea where to go and who to ask.

[MONGREL]

Hey guys i just bought a 96 3.9 disco and went for a small 4b over the weekend i still managed to get it stuck. Its only standard at the moment and a mate of mine who has just finished some exstensive mods on his hilux, converted it from indapendent front to rigid axle, about 6" suspension lift 2" body and 35" tyres but yet his roof hieght is basicly the same as mine... Dose this height become a problem when driving a disco with simalar mods on hard 4b tracks? Stability on side slopes? As i am hoping to end up with 3 to 4" supension lift with 34 maybe 35" tyres if they will fit.

[Micka]

Hey guys i just bought a 96 3.9 disco and went for a small 4b over the weekend i still managed to get it stuck. Its only standard at the moment and a mate of mine who has just finished some exstensive mods on his hilux, converted it from indapendent front to rigid axle, about 6" suspension lift 2" body and 35" tyres but yet his roof hieght is basicly the same as mine... Dose this height become a problem when driving a disco with simalar mods on hard 4b tracks? Stability on side slopes? As i am hoping to end up with 3 to 4" supension lift with 34 maybe 35" tyres if they will fit.

For his roof height to end up the same as yours...I would be more worried about the hilux falling over

Despite the roof line, Discos are pretty stable rigs. You can easily lift it 3" and then do a 2" body lift and fit 35s with minimal cutting. You will want to look at a locker and after market axels. IMHO, you would be better served getting a locker - or 2 - first, and then building the rest of the truck up slowly. That way, you will have to learn how to wheel your rig properly - driving the correct lines etc - instead of relying on a big lift and big tyres.

If you start looking at 4"- 6" lift, you will have driveline issues that are not really worth it. Better to keep it lower and cut the guards to fit bigger rubber.

Micka

[MONGREL]

Yes keen to get lockers. Although my local 4b tracks are covered with larg rocks and big steps where clearence becomes an isue, because even if managed to climb the step i would get hung up on the underbody. That was what i found with the old rangie anyway. So guess 3inch lift and lockers first up. I priced maxi drive lockers for the rangie when i had it from memory they were around the $1300. each. Are they all arond the same price and quality? I was going with a pro comp 3" suspension lift wich included extended bump stops and dislocation cones. Not real sure about the dislocation setup yet ive read some negative things about it.

[X-R-Cist]

hey guys i just had an NRMA inspection done on this.
the guy didnt sound too convinced on it.
he called me but i missed his call and when i called him back he couldnt talk much but he said that these had a lot of inherited problems...
can someone shed some light on this?

[Micka]

hey guys i just had an NRMA inspection done on this.
the guy didnt sound too convinced on it.
he called me but i missed his call and when i called him back he couldnt talk much but he said that these had a lot of inherited problems...
can someone shed some light on this?

Dude...

this is why I told you to take it to a Land Rover specialist to have them do a check on it.

NRMA/RACQ inspectors know fark all about these cars . I had the same drama with an inspection done on my Disco. They told me that the wheel nuts on my alloys were loose and could not be tightened . The outer casing on them seems loose - its one of those little quirks of LRs - they seem like a cover that you would remove to get to the wheel nut...but it is the wheel nut.

Also, they told me that the rear wiper did not work. But they check this with the door open as they stand outside and move the lever. Guess what?...the door needs to be closed for the wiper to work.

Its little things like that, that they don't know about.

If you are keen on the thing, take it to an LR specialist for an inspection. They know the cars inside and out.

Micka

[460cixy]

was about to say the same thing. nrma are fine for commies and falcons but not land rovers and you will find most mechanics have nfi too you realy need to find some one that knows landys. i recon this is also a reasion so many ppl buy jappers cause this sort of thing puts ppl off and give ppl the "land rovers are shit attitude"

[defender kev]

Yes keen to get lockers. Although my local 4b tracks are covered with larg rocks and big steps where clearence becomes an isue, because even if managed to climb the step i would get hung up on the underbody. That was what i found with the old rangie anyway. So guess 3inch lift and lockers first up. I priced maxi drive lockers for the rangie when i had it from memory they were around the $1300. each. Are they all arond the same price and quality? I was going with a pro comp 3" suspension lift wich included extended bump stops and dislocation cones. Not real sure about the dislocation setup yet ive read some negative things about it.

I wouldnt run dislocation cones you would be much better off retaining the springs like mentioned everywhere on here.
I run 2" springs in the back of my 110 with 11.1" pro comp shocks and have tied the springs in and spaced the bump stops and it works a treat..

[Simo63]

Yes keen to get lockers. Although my local 4b tracks are covered with larg rocks and big steps where clearence becomes an isue, because even if managed to climb the step i would get hung up on the underbody. That was what i found with the old rangie anyway. So guess 3inch lift and lockers first up. I priced maxi drive lockers for the rangie when i had it from memory they were around the $1300. each. Are they all arond the same price and quality? I was going with a pro comp 3" suspension lift wich included extended bump stops and dislocation cones. Not real sure about the dislocation setup yet ive read some negative things about it.

Hi Mongrel

Don't know when you priced the Maxidrives but they are closer to the $2000 mark each just for the kit. Then you either have to fit it yourself or pay someone else to do it. I've done a set of front and rears myself and it took a while. The local LR place, British Off Road, charge around $3000 each diff for a new Maxi fitted to the vehicle and this includes new bearings etc. ARB airlockers are around $1100 each for the kits plus a compressor which I think are around $400ish however they are a bit cheaper to fit.

The Maxidrives are fantastic and provide stronger axles in their kits whereas the ARB Airlockers don't and the standard LR axles are a weak link. There has been heaps of discussion on diff mods here before so I won't go into all that but the Maxi's are an excellent option. My only problem with the Maxi's was that they didn't engage and disengage quickly which, when competing created one or two minor problems at times but nothing dramatic.

On the last comp car I built, I used ARB's and ended up buying the Maxidrive axles (cos I kep breaking the std ones however I was running 36 inch tyres) ... a bit dearer but more suited to what I wanted.

Cheers
Simo

[Micka]

Yes keen to get lockers. Although my local 4b tracks are covered with larg rocks and big steps where clearence becomes an isue, because even if managed to climb the step i would get hung up on the underbody. That was what i found with the old rangie anyway. So guess 3inch lift and lockers first up. I priced maxi drive lockers for the rangie when i had it from memory they were around the $1300. each. Are they all arond the same price and quality? I was going with a pro comp 3" suspension lift wich included extended bump stops and dislocation cones. Not real sure about the dislocation setup yet ive read some negative things about it.

Hi Mongrel

Don't know when you priced the Maxidrives but they are closer to the $2000 mark each just for the kit. Then you either have to fit it yourself or pay someone else to do it. I've done a set of front and rears myself and it took a while. The local LR place, British Off Road, charge around $3000 each diff for a new Maxi fitted to the vehicle and this includes new bearings etc. ARB airlockers are around $1100 each for the kits plus a compressor which I think are around $400ish however they are a bit cheaper to fit.

The Maxidrives are fantastic and provide stronger axles in their kits whereas the ARB Airlockers don't and the standard LR axles are a weak link. There has been heaps of discussion on diff mods here before so I won't go into all that but the Maxi's are an excellent option. My only problem with the Maxi's was that they didn't engage and disengage quickly which, when competing created one or two minor problems at times but nothing dramatic.

On the last comp car I built, I used ARB's and ended up buying the Maxidrive axles (cos I kep breaking the std ones however I was running 36 inch tyres) ... a bit dearer but more suited to what I wanted.

Cheers
Simo

The other option, of course, is to run the McNamara hi-pinion in the front. This is an airlocker as well...only shits all over the ARB one.

The Maxi-Drive is a vacuum operated locker that does take time - a second or two - to disengage. It immediately locks like the air lockers though.


Micka

[X-R-Cist]

hey guys i just had an NRMA inspection done on this.
the guy didnt sound too convinced on it.
he called me but i missed his call and when i called him back he couldnt talk much but he said that these had a lot of inherited problems...
can someone shed some light on this?

Dude...

this is why I told you to take it to a Land Rover specialist to have them do a check on it.

NRMA/RACQ inspectors know fark all about these cars . I had the same drama with an inspection done on my Disco. They told me that the wheel nuts on my alloys were loose and could not be tightened . The outer casing on them seems loose - its one of those little quirks of LRs - they seem like a cover that you would remove to get to the wheel nut...but it is the wheel nut.

Also, they told me that the rear wiper did not work. But they check this with the door open as they stand outside and move the lever. Guess what?...the door needs to be closed for the wiper to work.

Its little things like that, that they don't know about.

If you are keen on the thing, take it to an LR specialist for an inspection. They know the cars inside and out.

Micka

yeah i know, problem is i couldnt find a LR specialist around the area
anyway i got my report back, lol sure enough first line reads "Innoperative rear screen washer"

so i crossed that one off.
but then it goes on to say as follows
lef tfront indicators staying on with park lights on
engine oil leaks eviden on bell housing & sump areas
corrosion at battery area
coolant leak at bottom radiator hose/pipe fitting
worn front brake pads
worn front&rear disks
oil leak at front diff
some corrosion at welch plug right side cylinder block
slight engine fuming
intermitent squank noise at clutch shaft bearing - cold-

this all sounds like small things, i mean the leaks ill get the dealer to fix, but the indicator has me..is this one of the LR quirks?

[Simo63]

The other option, of course, is to run the McNamara hi-pinion in the front. This is an airlocker as well...only shits all over the ARB one.

The Maxi-Drive is a vacuum operated locker that does take time - a second or two - to disengage. It immediately locks like the air lockers though.


Micka

Micka is correct there is the Macnamara option and through him you can change over to toyota centres etc and access all sorts of gearing combinations. I wasn't aware they shit all over ARB lockers however never having used them I can't comment. Personally I discounted this option after speaking with Mr Macnamara personally.

[Micka]

The other option, of course, is to run the McNamara hi-pinion in the front. This is an airlocker as well...only shits all over the ARB one.

The Maxi-Drive is a vacuum operated locker that does take time - a second or two - to disengage. It immediately locks like the air lockers though.


Micka

Micka is correct there is the Macnamara option and through him you can change over to toyota centres etc and access all sorts of gearing combinations. I wasn't aware they shit all over ARB lockers however never having used them I can't comment. Personally I discounted this option after speaking with Mr Macnamara personally.

Yes...they can be rather abrupt on the phone .

The McNamara lockers don't suffer the same problems with oil seals as the ARB locker and I think, from memory, the Hypoid is a 6 pin compared with the 4 pin ARB.

Lots and lots of ratios available, too.

Micka

[Micka]

hey guys i just had an NRMA inspection done on this.
the guy didnt sound too convinced on it.
he called me but i missed his call and when i called him back he couldnt talk much but he said that these had a lot of inherited problems...
can someone shed some light on this?

Dude...

this is why I told you to take it to a Land Rover specialist to have them do a check on it.

NRMA/RACQ inspectors know fark all about these cars . I had the same drama with an inspection done on my Disco. They told me that the wheel nuts on my alloys were loose and could not be tightened . The outer casing on them seems loose - its one of those little quirks of LRs - they seem like a cover that you would remove to get to the wheel nut...but it is the wheel nut.

Also, they told me that the rear wiper did not work. But they check this with the door open as they stand outside and move the lever. Guess what?...the door needs to be closed for the wiper to work.

Its little things like that, that they don't know about.

If you are keen on the thing, take it to an LR specialist for an inspection. They know the cars inside and out.

Micka

yeah i know, problem is i couldnt find a LR specialist around the area
anyway i got my report back, lol sure enough first line reads "Innoperative rear screen washer"

so i crossed that one off.
but then it goes on to say as follows
lef tfront indicators staying on with park lights on
engine oil leaks eviden on bell housing & sump areas
corrosion at battery area
coolant leak at bottom radiator hose/pipe fitting
worn front brake pads
worn front&rear disks
oil leak at front diff
some corrosion at welch plug right side cylinder block
slight engine fuming
intermitent squank noise at clutch shaft bearing - cold-

this all sounds like small things, i mean the leaks ill get the dealer to fix, but the indicator has me..is this one of the LR quirks?

The indicator thing has me stuffed

May just be a crossed line on that side. Everything else is easily fixed, and most things that they put down are to cover their arses.

All you need to consider is this...its a 2nd hand car.

The big $$$ things to look at are all under the hood.

1/. Get it compression tested.
2/. Have a diesel mechanic check everything - esp the injectors.
3/. Have a LR specialist look at everything else.

Leaks and noises happen in every car. The brakes may be an issue you can get the dealer to resolve. They are a road worthy item, anyway.

Micka

[ISUZUROVER]

The other option, of course, is to run the McNamara hi-pinion in the front. This is an airlocker as well...only shits all over the ARB one.

The Macnamara hypoid diff is actually low-pinion, not high pinion. It is a special case design that allows a low pinion toyota centre to clear the track rod.

But you are right that the Macnamara locker is a better design than the ARB locker.