I'm currently shopping for my first car, and as far as value for money goes, a number of 110 Defenders seem to be withing my budget.
My biggest concern is not the initial outlay, but ongoing costs related to servicing. I am a student, and will be for at the bare minimum another 6 months, so I don't want to be (and can't be) digging in to my pockets every week. This brings me to my question: what are they like for servicing and reliability?
I'm looking at a couple of 94 models on carsales.com.au, running the Tdi. I've done a few searches and haven't found anything too bad, so I'd love to hear more.
Also, 110 cab chassis look nice, is there any room behind the seats to put anything at all?
Edit: Ooops, I meant Tdi
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Buying a Defender (Tdi)
Moderator: Micka
i have a fire extinguisher behind my seats..... and an alloy tray.
cabs are tight, i'm 6'2" and fit ok but i don't know any better.
any car will need servicing. mines done 190,000km and is a 98 model. only the driveline shudder(see my other post) has come up in this time....and lots of little elec probs but thats english, how they won the war i'll never know.
can be a great truck for work horse or play.... i tow a 8 x5 trailer every day. reversing it up steep gravel drives in low range with the diff lock in and rear maxi dirve locked could have some bearing on my front end.. but serviced regularly should provide a good life. speak to rick at ricks 4wd, spencer rd, nerang.... great guy and very helpfull.
i get mine serviced there every 10k
cheers, serg
cabs are tight, i'm 6'2" and fit ok but i don't know any better.
any car will need servicing. mines done 190,000km and is a 98 model. only the driveline shudder(see my other post) has come up in this time....and lots of little elec probs but thats english, how they won the war i'll never know.
can be a great truck for work horse or play.... i tow a 8 x5 trailer every day. reversing it up steep gravel drives in low range with the diff lock in and rear maxi dirve locked could have some bearing on my front end.. but serviced regularly should provide a good life. speak to rick at ricks 4wd, spencer rd, nerang.... great guy and very helpfull.
i get mine serviced there every 10k
cheers, serg
I'm 6'3 and fit into my ute no problem (older LR but the cab is the same size). Behind my seats I have:
Snatch strap, Drag chain, 4 shackles, gloves, bow saw, 6D maglite, snatch strap, and a 6m air line. But there is absolutely no room for anything else...
If you are looking at a 94 model, that was about the changeover between the 200Tdi and LT77S gearbox, and the 300Tdi and stronget R380 gearbox. But both the LT77S and the early R380 had a problem with wear on the back of the gearbox mainshaft. Some R380's were fixed under warranty, but the problem develops slowly over time so some were not. Make sure you check yours is OK.
Also, there was an update kit for the 300Tdi timing belt. There was a 3-stage kit, and a 1994 model would need the full 3 stages, which included a new timing case and new pulleys. Make sure you check the service history to see that this kit was installed.
Other than that, just check the usual things like steering, suspension bushes, brakes, engine condition, etc, etc...
The main rust spots in the chassis are the rear crossmember (back of the chassis) and the rear of the crossmember in front of the fuel tank (especially above the main chassis rails.
Snatch strap, Drag chain, 4 shackles, gloves, bow saw, 6D maglite, snatch strap, and a 6m air line. But there is absolutely no room for anything else...
If you are looking at a 94 model, that was about the changeover between the 200Tdi and LT77S gearbox, and the 300Tdi and stronget R380 gearbox. But both the LT77S and the early R380 had a problem with wear on the back of the gearbox mainshaft. Some R380's were fixed under warranty, but the problem develops slowly over time so some were not. Make sure you check yours is OK.
Also, there was an update kit for the 300Tdi timing belt. There was a 3-stage kit, and a 1994 model would need the full 3 stages, which included a new timing case and new pulleys. Make sure you check the service history to see that this kit was installed.
Other than that, just check the usual things like steering, suspension bushes, brakes, engine condition, etc, etc...
The main rust spots in the chassis are the rear crossmember (back of the chassis) and the rear of the crossmember in front of the fuel tank (especially above the main chassis rails.
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