Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.

How to get into the middle seal area in the dif?

Tech Talk for Suzuki owners.

Moderators: lay80n, sierrajim

Post Reply
Posts: 575
Joined: Sun Mar 13, 2005 9:09 pm
Location: Kingston, Tas

How to get into the middle seal area in the dif?

Post by derelict_frog »

My seals on both difs are leaking, the ones where each tail shaft joins on that area leaks and that bit of shaft area wobbles a bit, so there is a seal in there right?, so i need to figure out how to undo that area to get at the inside, i got my dad onto it to try and undo it but it wouldnt budge apparantly and he even heated it up with the oxy and it still wouldnt budge..

Im not to sure how it works as i have been busy while he was trying to get into them, so any tips on getting into change those seals there would be awesome !

Thanks for ne replys!
Posts: 3722
Joined: Sat Jan 18, 2003 7:32 pm
Location: perth wa

Post by bazooked »

if they r woblin ur gonna have to change the bearings, sounds like the pinion bearings and seal, and yes the centre has to come to do this job, plus a rattle gun to undo the nuts.
buggy time............
Posts: 4825
Joined: Sun May 04, 2003 6:33 pm
Location: Berwick vic

Post by droopypete »

If the pinion "wobbles a bit" replacing the pinion seals will be a waste of time, I think you need to take a trip to the wreckers (or buy a parts car :) )
The diffs can be rebuilt, but if you don't even know the name of the part (no offence intended) you will struggle with the task, and a professional rebuild will more than likely cost more than 2nd hand.

Peter.
PS, as bazooked says, a good quality rattle gun with plenty of air should loosen that nut.
Last edited by droopypete on Thu Jan 12, 2006 7:40 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Posts: 575
Joined: Sun Mar 13, 2005 9:09 pm
Location: Kingston, Tas

Post by derelict_frog »

Ok we have got a rattle gun.. so ill see if oxy + rattle gun will work.

Also cant i just replace the bearing and seal, and cant u buy these new?

So whats the best way of getting the centre out?



Our parts car is like an old sj50?? (erlier body type) was free... does that same secton on the dif share the same type as the 1.3NT difs? Or else.. zooks r rare at wreckers here.. hmmm
Posts: 813
Joined: Wed Aug 18, 2004 10:21 pm
Location: Hobart

Post by Spike_Sierra »

nah, they are not the same, he means LJ.

bearings and seal shouldnt be that much, but becuase you need to remove the diff, the spacing between the teeth is changed and will need to be set perfectly to not get any backlash, this is where a pro is needed.
85 LWB w. FRP Canopy
Ca18det conversion in progress, Vit PS, RUF,
6.5:1's, 33x12.5 Bfg's, custom front and rear bars.
Posts: 529
Joined: Thu Jun 03, 2004 6:07 am
Location: SEQ

Post by munga »

mate you have to take out the axles before the centre will come out.

remove the wheels then undo the 4 bolts holding the axle to the housing. remove the axles THEN remove the centre.
ht zook with bog, rust and mt's

this is my wheelbase |<-------->|
Posts: 575
Joined: Sun Mar 13, 2005 9:09 pm
Location: Kingston, Tas

Post by derelict_frog »

Were trying to get into the centre at the moment.. once thats al open the rest should be easy enough.
Posts: 813
Joined: Wed Aug 18, 2004 10:21 pm
Location: Hobart

Post by Spike_Sierra »

hey jarrod, ive got an axel puller if your axels are a little tight. just give us a bell
85 LWB w. FRP Canopy
Ca18det conversion in progress, Vit PS, RUF,
6.5:1's, 33x12.5 Bfg's, custom front and rear bars.
Post Reply

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest