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Well I've ordered some 37 Iroks for the zook off Ryano and its going to be a month or so before they come in, so I'd like to get my 15x8 Classic II's beadlocked in time for there arrival.
I use autocad at work, and do odd jobs up to get lasercut for a mates metal fab business (Komited Kustoms), so was hoping to just buy some rolled or pressed outer rings, and get the inner rings made up to suit them and my alloys?
I wasn't too keen on having a flat outer ring?? mainly becuase of how than can buckle a little when tigthened up, centreing of the tyre (which I guess is done by the bolts instead of the lip), and lastly how they seal?
But I'm a beadlock noob, so correct me if I'm wrong with any of that......I wouldn't mind having flat outer so I could do some cool kinda design for the outer ring, but was worried about the above.
Been Running flat outer beadlocks for about three years now and none have ever leaked. They do cave in slightly but you can eliminate that by putting some air con hose in between the beadlock.
Just get them Laser cut at the same place you get the inner rings cut!
hey twisty i also run autocad and also just email .dxf files off to the laser cutter. $125 just for a cut piece would be a rip off but are they not turned on id, od and both faces which would add up to a bit if charged out at $50 an hour for someone to manual turn. if however the final product was just the cut piece surely $20ea would happily cover it if buying 4 off? I also would love to see a cross section of a beedlocked rim or even just a loan of one to measure up. Are they locked inner and outer?
His outer ring is very good but his inner ring is too thin, but he will sell you outers by them selves, 15 or 16 inch.
he is a top bloke very easy to deal with.
Peter.
What size bolts to you plan to use, M6 I imagine. 6mm would be enough to get enough torque in the ally without stripping it. When tapping into ally I always try and get at least the bolt size as depth, more if you can.
I wasn't planning on tapping the alloy.....was just going to use nuts and bolts (not sure on size yet, will depend what size hole TRIK's outer ring has on it).
Or I've also read about nutserts....somewhere, which I don't know much about, but they seemed to be used on all DIY beadlock tech threads from the states.....
Basicly, a nutsert or rivnut is a big pop rivet with an internal thread, well not realy but you get the idea, if you were using a M8 rivnut you would drill a 14/15mm hole (this is a guess) screw the rivnut onto the thread of a tool that looks and operates like a pop rivet gun, place the rivnut in the hole and the tool crushes the rivnut around the hole and the threaded probe stops the rivnut from distorting, cool
Personaly I would use Nylocks
Peter.
PS, get the fasteners from Trick, unless you have a mate at a bolt bar.
I won't use nutserts, they are way too unreliable for this application. Fixing internal panels and plastic splash guards - fine. Structural or safety - very doubtful, you have to get the force just right when you install them or they will work loose or you pull the thread out of them.
