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What can i do to fix this vibration that i get (not present at speeds when engine is reving around 3000-3500rpm (including 80)...but always at 2800rpm no matter what speed?
if doing 80 in fifth (present) if doing 80 in fourth (not present).
It also has this vibration when the engine is loaded up. (
I think some of this is clutch but most of it is since I did the lift (6").
What exactly is causing it? is it becuase the angles to the horizontal are different? Or is the angle on uni at the trxfercaseend just too much ?
Have you rotated that diff? Maybe it's just the lift but it loox like it's been rotated.
That's the problem as far as I can tell, the faces of the pinion flange and xfer output flange ideally should be parallel for the unis to work properly.
That setup looks like it would work well with a double cardan joint on the xfer end though.
if doing 80 in fifth (present) if doing 80 in fourth (not present).
If the vib is there at speed X - in one gear but not the other gear at same speed ,
It shouldn't be the drive shaft ,
If the above is true I would have a wild card guess and say gearbox or clutch orientated .
Damo is correct about the angles , but your drive shaft vibs are directly related to vehicle speed . and yours does not vib in 4th gear.
Thanks for that mick I adjusted the phasing the other day to make it what you said but I have clearly done it 90 out. It was originally just a couple of degrees out.
Disregarding my little embarrasment, what about the angles?
The way it sits now is pretty much perfect to run a cardin jointed shaft, that's probably the easiest solution. I can't see you getting enough displacement in the bushes to get that pinion rolled back down flat. Unless you bend the arms like the rangie dudes do??
Pull it out and rotate it on the slip joint approx 90 deg.
The two "ears" on the shaft should be in line and the the two in the t-case and pinion flanges should be in line.
if you have run the tailshaft out of phase you need to check your unis and pinion bearings as an out of phase tailshaft gives them a caining, i've seen pinion bearings in a truck choped out after a week of running with the tailshaft out of phase.
Before you "roll yor diff," try lowering back of gearbox down by spacing rear mounts or cross member if thats where they are att.
This will reduce some angles and give an ind of where prob lies.
bazzle
Last edited by bazzle on Tue Jul 08, 2003 4:30 pm, edited 2 times in total.
Bazzle the bundera doesnt have top arms on the rear diff. They use Radius arms front and rear just like the front of a Nissan.
Spacing the gearbox down may be a solution. The other way would be to buy some offset bushes if they are available. Or build some drop down brackets for the front of the arm. In those pics they look like they are at almost full flex anyway.
To rotate the diff back down you could cut the brackets that hold the radius arms to the diff off and make new ones and weld them to the diff housing so that the diff pinion is flater.
dropping the gearbox/transfercase down will help, but don't go too far as you will throw the front prop shaft angle out (as it will get steeper due the the transfercase flange rasing as the box drops at the back). I would suggest getting a cardinal joint on the transfercase end as well.
Do you get much down travel? those chassis bushes look like they are almost at full flex.
[i]DAS[/i]
MY05 4.4L V8 Range Rover Vogue
Series 2a Buggy....In the Building
Firstly I ait driving no Datto!! I dont think that is too bad for such a swb and is heaps of flex for my needs.
Thanks Murry, as you can see/say mine might flex a little more, but I doubt yours turns into a mobile vibrator like mine. (the winch biatches love it though)
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