Diff housing repairs

Post by **BIg StEvE** » Sun Jan 15, 2006 10:12 am

Two nights ago a few mates and i went up to Mount Dissapointment for a bit of a night run. Anyway i ended up blowing the rear diff and its punched a tiny hole in the back of the diff housing.

Of course my options are now turning to locker and upgraded axles! My main question to u guys before i start getting prices would be, can u repair the diff housing by welding it back up and is it easy enough for people that install the lockers to do at the same time?

cheers

steve

Post by **RangingRover** » Sun Jan 15, 2006 12:36 pm

Yes, welding a hole in the diff housing is quite a simple matter - if you are getting a maxi drive installed, the actuator block needs to be welded onto the housing (after cutting a large hole!), so your installers should have no problems at all. Failing that, as long as they are half competent welders, there should be no problems - its quite common to weld cracks in rangie diff housings.

Post by **6.5 rangie** » Sun Jan 15, 2006 3:01 pm

you'd be putting toys in wouldn't you Steve, if you are then you would need to weld up some holes, gaps and studs, so do it then. If you want to change your ratio's its cheaper to do the toys.

Post by **Aquarangie** » Sun Jan 15, 2006 6:25 pm

I remeber on Aquarangie when I blew the rear diff after a tough day out at Black Duck I just got the good 'ol stick welder out and did it myself. It was a very small hole on to of the diff (the bloody fuel tank had to come out though

)

But housings are cheap if you known where to look, but like others have mentioned if you do your toy conversion you'll have to take it out anyway.

Good luck with it.

Trav

Post by **BIg StEvE** » Sun Jan 15, 2006 8:02 pm

6.5 rangie wrote:you'd be putting toys in wouldn't you Steve, if you are then you would need to weld up some holes, gaps and studs, so do it then. If you want to change your ratio's its cheaper to do the toys.

I would love to go toys but the cost of doing front and rear will leave me with a lockless setup at this stage! And the whole confidence thing of doing toys aswell is holding me back a bit.

Still considering all my options!

This may sound really stupid because u run the same ratios can u run a standard 10 slpine open diff up front with say a 24 spline maxi rear? I would have thought u could! That would probably be one of the cheaper ways to go at this stage!

Dont get me wrong i would love to run toys but they will set me back about the same but i will have no locker!

I have two spare 10 spline thirds to play with also! Any recomendations?

Post by **6.5 rangie** » Sun Jan 15, 2006 8:16 pm

What about toys with an LSD rear, only about $100 more. I know what your saying about the dollars but if you want toys eventually, then you will be outlaying the dollars twice, maxi then toys. best option there would be for you to just go the maxi gear. Or put your other third in and save some extra cash. Your a sparky, you can afford it!

Post by **Aquarangie** » Sun Jan 15, 2006 8:55 pm

You can run Maxi drives in the rear with the atd 3.54 CW and the 10 spline open center up front no problems (see4n it many a times on Rangies up here). Most of your breakages are in the rear anyway.

Dunno what they charge in Vic for maxi supply and fit but I know in QLD you can get them at cash price direct from Mal if you get him on the right day like I did

But you could also perservere with the 10 spline crap and fit Toys when you have the ready cash, but being pateint is hte hard bit, especially for me

Trav

Post by **landy_man** » Sun Jan 15, 2006 9:57 pm

you seem to having been doing alright without a locker from what I have read...
If I was in your position.. I would whack some Toyota centres in with Jacmac axles... and then keep an eye out for a cheap ARB locker for the Hilux diffs...
They can be had pretty cheap sometimes... you just need to be in the right place at the right time... I paid $800 for a complete Hilux 3rd with locker a while back...
You could also just weld up the rear Toy centre till you could afford the locker...

Do the maths... Hilux centres - from $150 each up...
Jacmac axles and maching... around $1500 - $1700..
So really.. for only a couple of $100 more you would have a much stronger cw&p with better gearing and 30 spline axles...

Maxi locker - have not priced in a while.. but IIRC around the $1500 - $1700 mark...plus labour.. yes you get a locker and a strong centre... but the same old crappy crown wheel and pinion..
There are enough blokes on here who have done the conversion to help you out step by step.... it really is piss easy.. just drill a few holes and bolt it all together ....

Do it right the first time... HOWEVER.. if you do not plan on changing ratios anytime soon.. then just go the Maxi route..

just my 2 worth

Post by **walker** » Sun Jan 15, 2006 11:55 pm

I ran maxidrive rear with 10 spline front but not for long. I busted 2 centres in 4 trips so I had a spare 24spline locker from the Disco and just bought the maxidrive axles.

I managed to get my rear maxidrive 2nd hand and already had the front ARB locker, but if I had to buy it all new then I think you would be better off going Toy. As Landy_Man said, by the time you add axles, lockers and probably eventually 4.11 ratios, then the toy axles start looking cheap!

Post by **Aquarangie** » Mon Jan 16, 2006 2:17 pm

walker wrote:As Landy_Man said, by the time you add axles, lockers and probably eventually 4.11 ratios, then the toy axles start looking cheap!

If I was going to do it all again, I would definatley consider Toy centers. Plus now I have more confidence in my mechanical abilities it's not such a daunting task.

One thing I do like about the Toy conv. is the range of ratios to choose from. Rover only have the 4..11 CW and it's dear as poision

Trav

Post by **Loanrangie** » Mon Jan 16, 2006 4:01 pm

Steve, if you go the toys, i can help, i only live around the corner and i helped fit landy mans

Post by **BIg StEvE** » Mon Jan 16, 2006 6:28 pm

Loanrangie wrote:Steve, if you go the toys, i can help, i only live around the corner and i helped fit landy mans

Ok might have to take u up on that! I will get u to talk to Jack mac!

The main part i am worried about is not knowing what im asking for. Will definately think about running lockless for a while longer and doing toys! At least i can then keep sinking the slipper!

cheers all

steve

Post by **Loanrangie** » Mon Jan 16, 2006 7:20 pm

BIg StEvE wrote:
Loanrangie wrote:Steve, if you go the toys, i can help, i only live around the corner and i helped fit landy mans
Ok might have to take u up on that! I will get u to talk to Jack mac! The main part i am worried about is not knowing what im asking for. Will definately think about running lockless for a while longer and doing toys! At least i can then keep sinking the slipper!

cheers all

steve

Do a search on all the toy conversion posts and start a list of parts you need and start scrounging ! You can start by looking for centres, a 60 series long front axle ( then you only need 3 jacmac and reduces the cost), a pair of hilux cv's etc.

Post by **BIg StEvE** » Mon Jan 16, 2006 7:45 pm

Loanrangie wrote:
BIg StEvE wrote:
Loanrangie wrote:Steve, if you go the toys, i can help, i only live around the corner and i helped fit landy mans
Ok might have to take u up on that! I will get u to talk to Jack mac! The main part i am worried about is not knowing what im asking for. Will definately think about running lockless for a while longer and doing toys! At least i can then keep sinking the slipper!

cheers all

steve
Do a search on all the toy conversion posts and start a list of parts you need and start scrounging ! You can start by looking for centres, a 60 series long front axle ( then you only need 3 jacmac and reduces the cost), a pair of hilux cv's etc.

Yeah i have read them ova a few times now and im just wondering wether i go down the route the smiths have with keeping rangie cv's and stubs and keep spares on me! Would be nice to know they will break first cos even i know how to change them!

Post by **6.5 rangie** » Mon Jan 16, 2006 7:56 pm

Steve, if you get an RDO i can meet you at Jacmacs and order the bits you need, he's not that bad, you just need to know what you want and have CASH, he likes that.
2 x 30 spline rear rover axles
2 x front inner axles to suit toyota cvs
4 x drive flanges and caps
2 x brass bushes
4 x circlips
He will fit the rear axles to the drive flanges for you
He can machine you spindles and swivel hubs for you, or you can get someone else to do them, i think they need to be drilled (machined) out to 30mm
Its an easy conversion, but you will need to take your housings out or just get some from the wreckers, they'd be cheap cause they normally just send them to the scrap metallers

Post by **landy_man** » Mon Jan 16, 2006 8:00 pm

jeez dude...
look at all the offers you have...
someone to hold your hand when you go and order the stuff...
and someone to hold your hand while you drill your housings..

what more could you ask for.. I reckon the decision has been made for you

Post by **BIg StEvE** » Mon Jan 16, 2006 8:06 pm

landy_man wrote:jeez dude...
look at all the offers you have...
someone to hold your hand when you go and order the stuff...
and someone to hold your hand while you drill your housings..

what more could you ask for.. I reckon the decision has been made for you

hahaha yeah i reckon its great help guys! Will be in touch soon guys let me do a bit more research and i will send out some PM's!

Cheers

Steve

Post by **Loanrangie** » Mon Jan 16, 2006 9:27 pm

landy_man wrote:jeez dude...
look at all the offers you have...
someone to hold your hand when you go and order the stuff...
and someone to hold your hand while you drill your housings..

what more could you ask for.. I reckon the decision has been made for you

Youre just jealous !

Post by **landy_man** » Mon Jan 16, 2006 9:35 pm

yep.. i had to nut it out myself...
only had you 2 there for moral support...

Steve... ring as many wreckers as you can.. including commercial wreckers that wreck 2 wheel drives... the rear diffs are the same in all hilux's.. just different ratios..
There are even some wreckers that have a flat fee for all you can "carry"... try find some of these and ask if they have any hilux's.. I know there is one in Hastings that has a $90 all you can carry.. but you have to be able to carry it by yourself through the factory.. not drag carry

Post by **BIg StEvE** » Mon Jan 16, 2006 9:50 pm

landy_man wrote:yep.. i had to nut it out myself...
only had you 2 there for moral support...

Steve... ring as many wreckers as you can.. including commercial wreckers that wreck 2 wheel drives... the rear diffs are the same in all hilux's.. just different ratios..
There are even some wreckers that have a flat fee for all you can "carry"... try find some of these and ask if they have any hilux's.. I know there is one in Hastings that has a $90 all you can carry.. but you have to be able to carry it by yourself through the factory.. not drag carry

Thanks heaps Craig!

Man u guys are a bad influence on me and i like it!

Post by **TRobbo** » Tue Jan 17, 2006 3:22 pm

Steve just stick one of ya spare bloody diffs in and drive it - when they are all gone then spend the coin. In the mean time look at a few different set ups, cost options and work out what ya want to do with ya truck.
ARB lockers are cheaper than maxi drive and disengage quicker. You can also run maxi drive axles if the later model rover locker.
Most diff failures are rears, so going a hypoid toy option with a 4.1 ratio and heavy duty axles there with a 4.11 rover diff set up front might work for you. I had it in my white rangie. Stub axles are a relatively cheap and an easy fix insurance policy if you can keep the rest of the front together.
If you are breaking multiple diffs (with either ARB or Maxi Drive centres) per year then perhaps you need to reconsider your driving style.
Remember the more it is modified the harder it is to get bits when you bust it, which may just mean the difference between driving it home or a flat bed ride.
just my 2c.

Post by **landy_man** » Tue Jan 17, 2006 3:25 pm

toyota diff centres and cv's are a dime a dozen...
you do not want to be using a toyota hypoid in the rear.. they are for the front only..

Post by **landy_man** » Tue Jan 17, 2006 3:33 pm

http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... hp?t=64295

Post by **bushy555** » Tue Jan 17, 2006 4:00 pm

Did something similiar - blew me maxi locker (version 1) Jan 04. Punched a hole straight thru the rear of the rear diff. It is very thin, but I managed to weld it up with a $99.00 GMC stick welder!

I later got it brazed properly at the local engineering shop for $25.00

Post by **Micka** » Tue Jan 17, 2006 4:04 pm

Man...

with all of these offers, I would be finding the coin real fast

Let me know when you boys need an excuse for a trip up to sunny Qld.

Toy diffs with Jac Mac axels....droooooooool.

I would have to get the Mac lockers though. Either that, or Traction Control from Haultech

They have that working really, really well.

And it doesn't overheat and poo its pants like the Land Rover one

Micka

Post by **6.5 rangie** » Tue Jan 17, 2006 6:51 pm

I need to do something about my toy conversion, was going to put TJM lockers in or go the Haultech traction control, wouldn't mind seeing going though, alot of people hate t/c.

Post by **justinC** » Tue Jan 17, 2006 6:59 pm

I'm definately thinking haultec T/C, after phoning them the other day, I will be ordering my RRC 'kit' as soon as I have clearance from the controlling officials.....

I like not having to modify anything with the CV's or axles, If I'm gentle I can even retain the 10 spline rear end...

Just adding a bit more optional thoughts....

JC

Post by **stuee** » Tue Jan 17, 2006 8:15 pm

I've recently started thinking that my preferred option would be the toy conversion in the rear with locker and jac mac axles and in the front have an unlocked toy centre with traction control. That way you could keep the standard rover cv's rather than fork out for extra/modified sppindles, hubs, axles etc. Just some food for thought.

Still, seeing as I'm about to make the transition from operator to uni student I have to sort my steering setup (bent arms and rooted damper) out first before I can even think of the axles.

Post by **BIg StEvE** » Tue Jan 17, 2006 8:41 pm

I recently bought a Highmount winch so im keen as to get that on but i need to by a bar for it. Might be worth wacking in one of the old centres and repairing my housing myself with my welder. If i do that i could by a winch bar and take it easy for a while!

Appreciate everyones input and if anyone local is doing toys at the moment i would love to check it out in progress even happy to lend a hand!

cheers

steve

Post by **Loanrangie** » Tue Jan 17, 2006 9:08 pm

Steve, get the dims of Craig for his winch cradle, nice and neat and compact and you could add tube to it to make a full bar. Fits between the chassis rails and sits flush with the ends.

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