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Resetting leaf springs SE QLD

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Resetting leaf springs SE QLD

Post by matsmad »

My front right leaf spring on my MQ has sagged about 3 inches, puting my car on a mad right hand lean. Im havin trouble matching the leaves with a replacement, so this is my last option. Would anyone know where i could get my spring reset in the Gold Coast area??? Urgent!
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Post by ISUZUROVER »

I have always used Bayside Springs and Blacksmithing at Capalaba. Not on the Gold coast but not too far away.
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Post by mavdog »

Pedders, dear but they do it right first time.
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Post by mudtoy »

Carrolls Wacol, fully functional old school resetters, do it every day!
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Post by dirtyGQ »

As was said bayside spring have been in the game for ever and are THE experts when it comes to springs.
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Post by Suspension Stuff »

Whoever you get to do it. Get a firm quote for him to get it right and for him to take them out and fix them if it doesn't work the first or 2nd time. Surely there is someone good down the coast he can use???
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Post by ISUZUROVER »

King Springs are on the coast aren't they??? NFI if they do resets though.
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Post by scout392 »

Are they stock springs, why not try some 4x4 wreakers

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Post by matsmad »

scout392 wrote:Are they stock springs, why not try some 4x4 wreakers

Eric
They r stock springs, however they only have 3 leaves, parabolic springs i think they r called. I got another set from the wreckers and they were no better than what i had :roll: cheapest quote for reset so far $160 ea.
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Post by crosswire »

Do you really need parabolic springs?
You could get new front springs for less than $160EA for Cheapies if you dont need the parabolics.
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Post by matsmad »

crosswire wrote:Do you really need parabolic springs?
You could get new front springs for less than $160EA for Cheapies if you dont need the parabolics.
The parabolics flex upnicely, but i got quoted new fronts (6 leaf pak) for 150 each, so am considering it.
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Post by Henry M »

To have your suspension proportionally compress without have premature fatigue can be quite difficult. Even if you purchase the 6 leaf tapered spring and derate it (would suggest to 4 leaf) you would still require a hot reset to enable the spring to perform at a satisfactory level. Any second hand leaf spring would have done it's best work before you get your hands on it, it's fatigue life is therefore limited. A proper hot reset (cold set, soak, quench and temper) would give a leaf spring a desent second chance at performing and lasting within it's application. The hot reset will ultimately uniform the steels grain structure and eliminate all previous stresses. A cold reset spring (even if this spring has been moderatley heated - 150-300deg C) will be plastically deformed during the cold reset operationand will only hold it "set" for a limited period. I would suggest (based on cost effectivness and compression performance) replacing both springs with multileaf spring packs, there are a few suspension brands that offer packs rates a around 5.5 kgf/mm (swb) to 6.1 kgf/mm (lwb), these rates, based on your vehicles mass, will provide the appropriate compression and give a satisfactory fatigue life. When all is said and done buy new packs and you will be buying a piece of mind with the purchase.
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Post by ISUZUROVER »

Henry M wrote:To have your suspension proportionally compress without have premature fatigue can be quite difficult. Even if you purchase the 6 leaf tapered spring and derate it (would suggest to 4 leaf) you would still require a hot reset to enable the spring to perform at a satisfactory level. Any second hand leaf spring would have done it's best work before you get your hands on it, it's fatigue life is therefore limited. A proper hot reset (cold set, soak, quench and temper) would give a leaf spring a desent second chance at performing and lasting within it's application. The hot reset will ultimately uniform the steels grain structure and eliminate all previous stresses. A cold reset spring (even if this spring has been moderatley heated - 150-300deg C) will be plastically deformed during the cold reset operationand will only hold it "set" for a limited period. I would suggest (based on cost effectivness and compression performance) replacing both springs with multileaf spring packs, there are a few suspension brands that offer packs rates a around 5.5 kgf/mm (swb) to 6.1 kgf/mm (lwb), these rates, based on your vehicles mass, will provide the appropriate compression and give a satisfactory fatigue life. When all is said and done buy new packs and you will be buying a piece of mind with the purchase.
A good spring works will reset the springs cold, then temper the springs after resetting. I had 8 pairs of custom springs (designed and made myself from old leaves) reset and tempered by Bayside springs for $60-80 a pair. The first pair was about 8 years ago, and they are still working well, even though the leaves were made in 1968.

I have heard that some people have had problems with resets from the same place not being the right height. It helps if you can tell the spring place what free camber you want them set to, and also tell them you want them tempered.
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Post by Henry M »

Almost correct Ben, spring setting can be very ambiguous as 95% of cold leaf spring resetting premises do not have the facilties to retemper leaf springs (including the one your have mentioned - retempering of high carbon spring steel requires a constant temp of approx 440-460 deg C). The process is subjective and should only be taken as a short term fix, many spring resetters will not offer more then 3 months warranty on there service. I see this as a short term fix. Though you may have had success with your spring (as thousands have had previously) it is not my suggested outcome for a offroad vehicle suspension that will be expected to compress and absorber it's yield stress. Put simply, reset = short fatigue life, new springs = longer fatigue, these options are based on cost and are proportional to their outcomes.
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Post by ISUZUROVER »

Henry M wrote:Almost correct Ben, spring setting can be very ambiguous as 95% of cold leaf spring resetting premises do not have the facilties to retemper leaf springs (including the one your have mentioned - retempering of high carbon spring steel requires a constant temp of approx 440-460 deg C). The process is subjective and should only be taken as a short term fix, many spring resetters will not offer more then 3 months warranty on there service. I see this as a short term fix. Though you may have had success with your spring (as thousands have had previously) it is not my suggested outcome for a offroad vehicle suspension that will be expected to compress and absorber it's yield stress. Put simply, reset = short fatigue life, new springs = longer fatigue, these options are based on cost and are proportional to their outcomes.
While the tempering jobs would never conform to SAE/ISO/DIN standards, in my experience they do the job if the spring works knows what they are doing. Another big factor is the quality of the steel used - I have found many aftermarket springs have fairly poor quality steel. I have seen plenty of broken/sagged sets of new springs, where old springs/resets are still going strong.

But I definitely will not argue that a set of new springs is a lot better than old springs that have been reset (if everything else is equal). Spring steel only has a given number of cycles to failure, and I doubt that even the best tempering would return the steel completely to the "new" state (i.e. give it the same number of cycles to failure as a new spring).

In my case (series Land Rover), basically the only option for suitable springs was to design my own (using the SAE "Automotive Leaf Spring Design Manual" - highly reccommended), since all aftermarket springs I found were far to stiff - Land Rover used 4.2-4.4mm thick leaves on most springs, and aftermarket springs use the same number of leaves, except 5mm - which increases the spring rate by about 80lb/in on average. And most spring manufacturers I spoke to tried to sell me "Heavy Duty" springs (even stiffer) - when I had already told them I wanted softer springs to improve wheel travel.

EDIT - but I am sure the possibilities for japanese 4x4s are better. Just make sure to buy from a reputable company that offers a good warranty - and make sure you get the spring rate and free camber that you want.
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Post by Suspension Stuff »

I think someone should get a new quote for how much bayside will reset their springs for because I think it is a lot more then $60 a pair.
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Post by humphey »

4WD Stuff wrote:I think someone should get a new quote for how much bayside will reset their springs for because I think it is a lot more then $60 a pair.
mate i've been in the spring game for 10 years now and i can tell u i would'nt do it for that price . as for hot settin springs i reset and camber the springs while there hot . than reassmble cold ,this is the only way i found to make them work and hold up. as for parabolic springs yes u do need a preset oven to do them properly. most spring works should give more warrenty than 3 or 6 months .
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Post by Henry M »

Humphey: what temperature are you restting the leaf springs at (just curious)? I am sure, even as you are a spring maker, you would not suggest a reset spring over a new spring (new spring with correct rates, mechanical properties and dimensions). I could see the value in a reset if you were only driving on road and keeping the vehicle short term but couldn't see the long term benefits if a 4wd vehicle was being used for its intended purpose.

I just don't think the public should be mislead to believe that old reworked leaf springs could beneifit their vehilces on or offroad performance.

There are plenty of other industries that support the resetting of leaf spring but these are mainly light and heavy commercial vehicles. The springs for these vehicle dicate lower stress ranges (based on material cross section). These lower stress ranges can be maintained due to limited spring deflection.

This subject is very interesting and could be (and probably will be) debated for decades to come. The more info we all put across the better.
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Post by ISUZUROVER »

4WD Stuff wrote:I think someone should get a new quote for how much bayside will reset their springs for because I think it is a lot more then $60 a pair.
I don't doubt that - $60 a pair was a special price I got since I was getting a few sets done. Normally they were $80 and now the price has probably gone up.

EDIT - I should add that I always took in the springs, never the truck. And I removed and refitted the clamps myself.
Last edited by ISUZUROVER on Mon Jan 30, 2006 7:07 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Post by ISUZUROVER »

Henry M wrote: I could see the value in a reset if you were only driving on road and keeping the vehicle short term but couldn't see the long term benefits if a 4wd vehicle was being used for its intended purpose.

I just don't think the public should be mislead to believe that old reworked leaf springs could beneifit their vehilces on or offroad performance.
Henry - this thread gives some info on my spring setup, and some pictures of my LR offroad.
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... hp?t=37883

I have modified reset rear springs in the rear (originally made in 1968), and new aftermarket springs in the front (which were modified and reset after I bought them because I couldn't buy what I wanted).

The springs were installed in about 1998 (the new front springs had had 6 months use in stock form by then). My Land Rover gets 15" of wheel travel front and rear. At full up-travel both front and rear spring packs are reverse-arched. The front springs are very short on a LR so see a lot of stress. My truck is used of road regularly (or was from when the springs were fitted until mid 2004), and the springs performed perfectly, without sagging - even though they are resets, and they suffer a lot of stress when articulating. These springs transformed the offroad performance of my truck completely. The original military springs were 410lb/in in the rear, and the aftermarket springs were 315lb/in (when they should have been much softer).

Funnily enough, the only failures I have had, were half the very bottom leaf on each front pack breaking off - and these springs are MUCH newer than the rears, and also thinner leaves so they should suffer less stress across the leaf.

I know plenty of other people who have had great results with reset springs. With completely transformed offroad performance (when a more appropriate rate spring is installed), and very good spring life. Of course new are (usually) better, but there is absolutely nothing wrong with using good quality springs that have been reset properly. Why are you so persistent on this - do you sell new spring sets???
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Post by shorty_f0rty »

hey fella's.. just wondering if i could get some input on this and thought it might apply to this thread so here it is..

i got my springs reset last week and they went a bit overboard (didn't do what I had asked) and I'm going back there tomorrow to get it fixed. I've put this info together to try and ensure that the spring place ( recommended in this thread but if you want the details follow my profile link in my sig ) gets it right this time round.

When they said they would fix it they wanted to know exactly what I want done (fair enough) but not being in the spring business i wasn't 100% sure what they wanted to know.. Therefore I took some measurements and compared them to what I measured in the carpark before i left it with them.. and did up this doco..

but before I get there I want to make sure I have every detail right that they could possibly want to do what I asked for

I intend on giving this doco to them tomorrow to help to explain my request better. do you think this will ensure the job gets done to spec this time round? Are there any critical flaws in the dimensions and measurements listed? I've also tried to list what i want these changes to do so this gives them an idea of my intended application (ie, not just posin around town with 4" of lift).. hopefully your comments will give me some peice of mind for tomorrow..
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Post by humphey »

Henry M wrote:Humphey: what temperature are you restting the leaf springs at (just curious)? I am sure, even as you are a spring maker, you would not suggest a reset spring over a new spring (new spring with correct rates, mechanical properties and dimensions). I could see the value in a reset if you were only driving on road and keeping the vehicle short term but couldn't see the long term benefits if a 4wd vehicle was being used for its intended purpose.

I just don't think the public should be mislead to believe that old reworked leaf springs could beneifit their vehilces on or offroad performance.

There are plenty of other industries that support the resetting of leaf spring but these are mainly light and heavy commercial vehicles. The springs for these vehicle dicate lower stress ranges (based on material cross section). These lower stress ranges can be maintained due to limited spring deflection.

This subject is very interesting and could be (and probably will be) debated for decades to come. The more info we all put across the better.
henry i still recon that most off the new gear thats around is not up to scratch but sayin that i've had some new springs that work ok . i've fitted new springs to offroad trail rigs that do alot off road work [hard sh1t] and work ok but iv'e done a few 40 series and other rigs with custom springs plus my own rig and worked great . its a hard call to make witch way to go before u spend the cash . as for temp im not sure the guage broke a long time ago . were still old skool :roll:
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Post by shavedtoy »

i had my cheap springs rest at ALLSET SPRINGS about 6 months a go and they have been great, nice and soft heaps of flex and havent sgged at all as yet.
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Post by humphey »

shavedtoy wrote:i had my cheap springs rest at ALLSET SPRINGS about 6 months a go and they have been great, nice and soft heaps of flex and havent sgged at all as yet.
if u don't mind me askin what sort off price did u pay and what did you have done .
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Post by GRINCH »

shavedtoy wrote:i had my cheap springs rest at ALLSET SPRINGS about 6 months a go and they have been great, nice and soft heaps of flex and havent sgged at all as yet.
from what ive heard hes shut up shop and moved to harvey bay.
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Post by ISUZUROVER »

shorty_f0rty wrote:hey fella's.. just wondering if i could get some input on this and thought it might apply to this thread so here it is..
That should be enough, all they really need to know is how high it was at each corner, how high it is now, and how high you want it.

If you know how much the 40 weighs at each corner then that would be useful too.
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Post by humphey »

GRINCH wrote:
shavedtoy wrote:i had my cheap springs rest at ALLSET SPRINGS about 6 months a go and they have been great, nice and soft heaps of flex and havent sgged at all as yet.
from what ive heard hes shut up shop and moved to harvey bay.
from what iv'e heard he move's around alot .
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Post by humphey »

ISUZUROVER wrote:
shorty_f0rty wrote:hey fella's.. just wondering if i could get some input on this and thought it might apply to this thread so here it is..
That should be enough, all they really need to know is how high it was at each corner, how high it is now, and how high you want it.

If you know how much the 40 weighs at each corner then that would be useful too.
mate u have it in one , do u need a job ;) :) :)
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Post by ISUZUROVER »

humphey wrote:
ISUZUROVER wrote:
shorty_f0rty wrote:hey fella's.. just wondering if i could get some input on this and thought it might apply to this thread so here it is..
That should be enough, all they really need to know is how high it was at each corner, how high it is now, and how high you want it.

If you know how much the 40 weighs at each corner then that would be useful too.
mate u have it in one , do u need a job ;) :) :)
How much are you offering??? :lol:

I also have a question - can you get new spring steel in thicknesses less than 5mm? - e.g. 4.2mm 4.4mm etc??? (2.5" wide if that makes a difference).
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Post by humphey »

ISUZUROVER wrote:
humphey wrote:
ISUZUROVER wrote:
shorty_f0rty wrote:hey fella's.. just wondering if i could get some input on this and thought it might apply to this thread so here it is..
That should be enough, all they really need to know is how high it was at each corner, how high it is now, and how high you want it.

If you know how much the 40 weighs at each corner then that would be useful too.
mate u have it in one , do u need a job ;) :) :)
How much are you offering??? :lol:

I also have a question - can you get new spring steel in thicknesses less than 5mm? - e.g. 4.2mm 4.4mm etc??? (2.5" wide if that makes a difference).
as for the job i don't think it would be enough cash for u :lol: that size is hard to get now unless u can find old stock that some one has . most off the new spring steel comes in 5 mm 6mm up to the big stuff 25mm 31mm
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