new clutch

Post by **X-R-Cist** » Wed Jan 25, 2006 6:30 pm

Well its official the clutch bearing has gone on me and i need to get a new one for the td5 99 model landy.
can anyone tell me where i can source a cheap one from sydney?
some guy quoted me $900 for the new clutch and 600 labor.
i told him to shove it.

thanks guys

also random unrelated question, when i put on my indicator either left or right or even the hazards, the trailor light comes on and flashes with the indicators...is this normal?
i dont have one hooked up nor do i have a towbar on it.

Post by **RaginRover** » Wed Jan 25, 2006 7:10 pm

Do you have a bullbar with extra indicators in it ?

It comes on when you have higher resistance across the circuit so you may need to replace your bulbs with ones that have lower resistance

Tom

Post by **justinC** » Wed Jan 25, 2006 7:27 pm

Pay the $$$ and get a Borg and Beck/ genuine clutch. The labour seems good if they are charging $80/ hour. Its about 5 to 7 hour job in a disco.

$900.00 is about right for a aftermarket sourced borg and beck clutch, LR want about $1200 ++++ for it!!!

Make sure they fit a new spigot bush also!!!

You only get what you pay for with landys, get someone who knows what they are doing to fit a good quality clutch and you'll be happy.

JC

Post by **justinC** » Wed Jan 25, 2006 7:29 pm

Pay the $$$ and get a Borg and Beck/ genuine clutch. The labour seems good if they are charging $80/ hour. Its about 5 to 7 hour job in a disco.

$900.00 is about right for a aftermarket sourced borg and beck clutch, LR want about $1200 ++++ for it!!!

Make sure they fit a new spigot bush also!!!

You only get what you pay for with landys, get someone who knows what they are doing to fit a good quality clutch and you'll be happy.

JC

Post by **X-R-Cist** » Fri Jan 27, 2006 6:45 pm

well if you guys say its an ok price then ill have to go ahead with it.
he is saying that the $900 clutch is a genuine LR clutch, he can get an aftermarket one for about $600 but he doesnt want to know me after he puts it in and it breaks.

which i can understand

would it be worth my time going to a pick and pay less and ripping one out of there?

also on a side note, i took the car out to the sand the other day (yes with a bad clutch i know i know) but i found that the automatic engaging 4wd was shit house on the sand, i dont need the front wheels spinning when the back ones have lost traction, by then its too late, is there a way to get constant 4wd?

Post by **justinC** » Fri Jan 27, 2006 6:58 pm

Fit the new RR clutch and be done with it. The Labour will be double if the second hand one fails wont it??? I for one would never fit a second hand clutch to my own vehicle let alone a customers car!!!

The Traction control is to blame, get a CDL conversion done and switch off the TC.

JC

Post by **ISUZUROVER** » Fri Jan 27, 2006 7:12 pm

A borg and beck clutch is $900 aftermarket??? I bought an aftermarket 9.5" borg and beck clutch and pressure plate for a IIA for about $250 new. Surely there can't be that much price difference on basically the same size parts from the same material.

Post by **justinC** » Fri Jan 27, 2006 8:56 pm

TD5 clutch is a bit different to the series one, and that is a full retail price, not through the trade.

JC

Website · Post by **cooter** » Fri Jan 27, 2006 9:19 pm

i paid 600 for mine at all 4x4 in kotara bog and beck
and 56 for a new fork

Post by **ISUZUROVER** » Fri Jan 27, 2006 10:13 pm

justinC wrote:TD5 clutch is a bit different to the series one, and that is a full retail price, not through the trade.

JC

I accept that, but the costs of producing them shouldn't be too different?

Post by **justinC** » Sat Jan 28, 2006 7:52 am

I agree, but the cost through LR for a Disco Defender Tdi clutch used to be over 1100, and that didn't include a fork!!!

Shopping around is always a good idea, All 4X4 in Kotara are a good start, as they will only sell you borg and beck etc.

JC

Post by **rick130** » Sat Jan 28, 2006 7:10 pm

Is the OE clutch for a Tdi a B & B or Valeo ??

Post by **justinC** » Sat Jan 28, 2006 8:10 pm

RICK,
I've seen both as OE, though I've seen more failed Valeo plate centres than Borg And Beck ones.
I consequently fit B & B only.

JC

Post by **rick130** » Sun Jan 29, 2006 6:34 am

thanks JC. Only used to use B&B's in my Jeeps (and AP/B&B in the race cars).
Touch wood, I've had a great run out of the OE clutch so far, (180,000km) and thought if it was a Valeo, I'd stick with it.
Sounds like a B&B is the go then.

Post by **justinC** » Sun Jan 29, 2006 8:19 am

I have another 130 customer that got 230,000km from their clutch, we only changed it because we replaced the rear main seal etc, and didn't want to repeat the labour when the clutch finally did wear out. BTW, the clutch plate had heaps of material left!! The owner drives very carefully and most of its driving is open road.

JC

Post by **justinC** » Sun Jan 29, 2006 8:22 am

I have another 130 customer that got 230,000km from their clutch, we only changed it because we replaced the rear main seal etc, and didn't want to repeat the labour when the clutch finally did wear out. BTW, the clutch plate had heaps of material left!! The owner drives very carefully and most of its driving is open road.

JC

Post by **rick130** » Sun Jan 29, 2006 8:55 pm

sorry to keep this going JC, is the B&B available in the larger diameter/HD/130 driven plate ?

Post by **justinC** » Mon Jan 30, 2006 7:29 pm

Rick,
All I get for the Def is 130 spec clutches. The diameter of the plate and pressure plates were all the same as far as I know. The clamping force of the pressure plate diaphragm spring was higher and the damper in the friction plate was better in the 130 spec cluthes.

JC

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