6" Skywards on my 1989 Range Rover

[GRIMACE]

I spoke with a fella called Wayne @ Waynes World of 4WD Conversions.
In regards to lifting my Rangie a total of Six inches (no body lift).

He says no worries? Apparently he can gett me a set of Cruiser springs (different sorts for front and back) that will lift my rangie 3-4 inches (thats the standard size springs) so further to the point he is gonna get the sames springs with 2-3 inches of lift bringing the total suspension high to 5-7inches over standard Rangie hight (hope fully closer to 6").

Now assuming this is all good and correct, he reackons that my trailing arms will not need any modification? I am questioning this as I would rather spend the money doin it right than spend the money fixing repairs or even bein disapointed with the off road performance.

He has quoted me between 2200-2500 dollars thats for the springs, shocks (ranchos), new rear ball joint frame/mount, removal of the self leveler, front bushes and drag linkages etc.

I was just wondering is it worth it or shoudl i just sorce the springs myself and Buy the Ranchos and the 30% extra articulation kit from Rangie Spares along with there Reinforced ball joint? And then do all the further requirements needed?

Thanks to anyone that can help
emailing would prob be the best way to contact me my details r below.

Anthony Parra
anthonyparra@optusnet.com.au

[Bodge]

ummmm yeah - all your suspension geometry is going to be up the shite with 6 inches of lift. If you want to go that high you ARE going to need new front and rear drive shafts, castor correction, ball joint spacers, bent and lengthened trailing and radius arms, etc.....

Whay so high in spring lift?

Tell us all what you are planning to use it for - there is plenty of Rangie experience here and they can point you in the right direction.

My feeling is that at the very least you should get a second opinion from a Rangie specialist like [Rangie Spares] before you shell out any money to Wayne from Waynes World....

Is anyone else worried about the 'Waynes World' connection - I am like, totally dude....

[GRIMACE]

I dont want any body lift at all and I want to be able to fit 35" tires (after I cut the guard and fit flares)

A body lift to me is pointless people say its good cause it increase my departure angle (and rangies have pretty crappy departure angles) but i would rather bob-tail it (and I will much later down the track).

Basically WHAT I WANT is to slowly modify my range rover as my life drifts by. There is no limit as to where i am gonna stop with it ecept the amount of money I can save between each time i decide to do something.

I am willing to make all the neccesary changes to suspsion trailing arms etc just aslong as it drive decent on road (not really important to me) and bloody excellent off road (very important to me).

I have spoke to the guys at rangie spare and many others and all dont seem to interested in goin up 6", they all seem to want to do it there way and each one is trying to convince me that there way is the best. I know that rangie spare have a bloody excellent suspension package but its only 3 inches over standard (i wont even be able to run 33s with out some scrub).

Any help would be great, so far I am considering purchasing the 30% extra art kit & ball joint and snorkel from Rangie Spares bolting it all on and then getting the SPRINGS & SHOCKS and changing shit from there.

I just read to many people with to many different opinions and ideas it gets to bloody confusing.

[landy_man]

I just read to many people with to many different opinions and ideas it gets to bloody confusing.

As many will tell you, and rightly so, the best, safest, most stable way to fit 35's on your car is 2" body lift, 2"-3" spring lift, flares...even then you might still rub...

Such long springs (and I am sure Toyota springs won't fit) will cause the vehicle to be very "tippy". The poundage of the spring would be too light to support the weight of the vehicle 6" up.

Some people use progressive springs which are 5". Not my favourite...

At that height you would have probs with all shafts...brake lines as mentioned...
$2500 would not cover this whole package...

Speak to someone with experience...there are many people out there who know a lot about racing Rangies.... they know what they are talking about...look at most of the results over the last few years..e.g. Rainforest challenge...Rangies win with pretty low spring and bodylifts

Shop around

Thats my 2c, but I could be wrong

[GRIMACE]

Landy-Man i dont understand the idea of your reply, you just confusing me more.

I wish i was a engineer/metalworker/smart man myself as it would save me alot of hassles.

It would be cool if i could go to sleep and wake up and it all be done complete with no hassles at all.

[landy_man]

yeah I know ooops... read my edited version

[HSV Rangie]

Anthony,

THe problems you will encounter are much as bodge said.

I know you donyt want to go with it but DO GO with a 50mm body lift.

run 75 to 100 mm spring lift, here your problems start.

1: Front drive shaft will not function angle to great.
2: Castor will be non existent.(RR has 3 degrees castor stock every 25mm you lift it you loose 1 degree castor.
3: THe chasy mount for the front radias arms will be maxed out.
4: the chassy mount for the rear links will also be maxed out.
5: the rear ball joint wil be at its limits.
6: Diff pinion angles wil be way out inducing massive vibes.
7: even with 75mm to 100mm lift bump steer xcan be an issue with 150mm plus bump steer will be a PIA.

Springs: for 75mm plus lift you will have to souce custom springs.
Or talk to Brad C he used some from scorpion racing UK they appear to be very good.

Remedies:
Front axle.
Crank front radias arms (chassy end) to restore the chassy mount to arm to std location.
Crank front arms (diff end) so that diff pinion points at t/case output.
Redrill swivell housings to correct castor.
Fit double cardan joint ed drive shaft.
Fit longer pan hard rod and steering link.

Rear axle:
remove boge unit unbolt through away.
manufacture a spacer to bolt in between the Aframe and b.joint same hight as lift.
manufacture new rear links cranked to suit lift. material DOM tube 40od by 20id.
make the lth of the arms so that pinion angle is in the same plane as the t/case out put and run single uni as in std rear shft alter lth to suit.

there is a swilel joint being made by Cheezy racing in melb that would be great, was arouind $380.00 waiting on pics of it to see whats involed in fitting.

Attached are some of the parts I made and used.

regards
Michael.

[HSV Rangie]

Rear links.

[Maggot4x4]

I have 35's on my rangie with a 2" lift and use of an angle grinder.

[GURU]

G'day,

Doesn't matter how much coil lift you have your 35's will still scrub if you don't restrict up travel, wether it's a 2" lift or a 6" lift, if you have full up travel the 35's will scrub, unless you cut the guards out.

The blue Rangie Maggot4x4 posted has a 2" body lift, but under the rear diff it has spaces between the spring perch and the diff casing (45mm I think?), and the guards have been cut out and it doesn't scrub.

But if you use spacers with spring lift it's the same as a complete coil lift, but safer, you should stay at about 4" lift, you will need to keep the diff pinion angle correct by changing the arm lengths. also adjust the caster angle on the front.

What HSV Rangie said is right about the 2" lift and what you do to the suspension arms.

[Aquarangie]

A six inch lift in springs.. Pretty scary!!

As everyone has mentioned here, your streering, trailing arms and ball joints will need altering and even then it wopuld still be scary to drive on-road, unless it's purely an off-road beast.

Like HSV Rangie has said, 3 inch springs and 2 inches in the body is safer, more economical and legal (not sure if it's illegal in Queensland). YOu can still correct your castor angle and have the bloody thing drive in a straight line!!

But if you make it work however you go ablout it, best of luck to you.

Aquarangie

If it ain't broken, leave the bastard alone

[madrangie]

ok been there and done that well close enough ....... big heads aches ok firstly all new rear arms and A-frame cheezy style ( no chassis mods needed ) i can drop a 35 2-3 inches below the door silt . Gq rear shocks and lower rubbers extended brake lines , custom made springs forget rancho's if u want a set i will sell to u cheap were on the car 2 weeks buy koni's only way to fly . The A-frame ball joint is replaced with a swivel bush that cheezy gets made up. As for the front still sorting out all the probs need new arms made ( custom $$$$$) brake lines already done u need a need pamarm rod snake racing i believe do one for like $250 , As for shocks and towers still trying to locate a set up that will work well on a rangie . My advice with spring get them custom made to the weight of your truck ( that is when u off road etc ) at the required high don't go high poundage as it is not a race car . with everthing on the front 180's should be good enough and 300 in the back (depending on what u carry). Lifting is only good if you can maintian your droop aswell .

[landy_man]

surely with 300's in the rear your uptravel must be limited

[madrangie]

not at all they willl come all the way up and rubber the top of wheel arches still . like i said it depends what you have in the back , use to run 270's but once i added a set of draws , 35 inch spare and a custom rear bar ,The ride is ok a little hard for on road then a stock rover but off road with all the camping gear etc it is beautiful

[GRIMACE]

When I go 4wding I have the back empty so just acomodate for a spare tyre (maybe two) and rear bull bar (not yet on vehicle) which i am trying to source second hand (ARB or something)

Well I really like the SCORPION racing Extreme kit but for 4500 dollar its abit much and I dont know what every one thinks about the rear shock dislocater.
I was considering that kit with there extreme prop shaft and drag links etc but i would be looking at around 5500 for the pakage then i have to fit it.

Another option i was goin to go with was the rangie spares one consisting of;
1. 30% larger wheel travel kit $ 1244
2. Drag link & track rods $140 each (brackets & tie rod ends sold seperately)
3. Offset caster bushes & elongated swivel housings $80pr bushes 195pr swivels
4. Ball joint (reinforced $165
5. SNORKEL $307 (they look cool)
That TOTALS $2546 (i think i added it up correctly)
Then i just find a spring & shock package to suit


???????????????????????????????????? I am lost

[TuffRR]

I wouldn't bother buying the extreme prop shaft - its just a D2 propshaft painted orange. You can pick them up much cheaper from the wreckers, and you could still paint them bright orange!!

As for the rest of the kit - if you know the right people, a similar set up can be had much cheaper. The principles behind it all are prenty simple and can be made by most competent workshops (backyards?).

[Bodge]

I dont want any body lift at all and I want to be able to fit 35" tires (after I cut the guard and fit flares)

Basically WHAT I WANT is to slowly modify my range rover as my life drifts by. There is no limit as to where i am gonna stop with it ecept the amount of money I can save between each time i decide to do something.

.

Take your own advice - do it slowly... Spend a little at first and see how it goes for a while... Then do another round of mods to refine the bits that are not working for you.

You are talking about MAJOR outlay and mods and you haven't driven it yet - it might be a dog.

Do the body lift and 2-3 inches of spring which is relatively cheap and chop the guards and flare it and then you will fit 35's - which is where you want to be.

Then drive it.

You can drive it without all the other suspension mods at this stage - although its going to be a little twitchier than normal.

I am assuming that you have already sorted the axles and diffs to handle the 35's. If you haven't spend the $$ here. 6" lift is going to look silly if your driveline explodes on the first obsticle....

Oh yeah - DO put the snorkel on - cos it does look cool....

[mav]

I wouldn't bother buying the extreme prop shaft - its just a D2 propshaft painted orange. You can pick them up much cheaper from the wreckers, and you could still paint them bright orange!!

As for the rest of the kit - if you know the right people, a similar set up can be had much cheaper. The principles behind it all are prenty simple and can be made by most competent workshops (backyards?).

when you say D2 do you mean disco series two, and do you know any thing about slotting the steering knuckles??

[bj on roids]

http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... hp?t=11333

2" body + 2" spring dont go any higher.

In my personal opinion you are FAR better off going for a front and rear locker BEFORE any other mods. This will make little to no difference on road (selectable maxi-drives) and will improve its performance out of sight off road. I beleive a stock rangie dual locked, would go further than a modified, unlocked rangie on 35s. (Same principal applies to all vehicles)

Driving rigs with big lift used to be cool (like in the 80s)

[the naked Duck]

Have to agree with BJ as to the benifits of Maxidrives. I just had the rear done and I'd just about put money on my Rangie against one with a big lift and rubber.

Another point with lockers is that you don't have to use as much loud pedal to get thru stuff thus saving on CV's etc.

[Rainbow Warrior]

I ran 255/85x16 (34") tyres on mine with only a 2 inch body lift and 2 inch spring lift, I just put a new set of springs in the back and moved the rears to the front. The other thing I had to do on the front was add 50mm spacers into the lower guard mount to flare the guard outwards to clear the tyres on lock, then I just hand bent the front lower edge to match.
Consider Maxidrives or later Discovery diffs, I had a rear ARB locker and with the grunty 3.9 I could break an axle at 1000rpm crawling up an incline with a blip of the throttle, though never had a problem in mud use.
Also consider for freeway use you need some good shocks to keep a animal like this stable, suspension like slinky and I also had a few of inches diagonal corner squat/lift on throttle changes, forcing steering corrections.

[mav]

talking about diff mods the hilux diff centre conversion sounds good