Can you change a turbo's outlets?

[high n mighty]

Picked up a second hand turbo and I dont wanna spend money on it until I know the seals aren't stuffed etc.

The intake is going to be pointing down if I install it in its current gues though it looks from the bolt pattern that I could twist the housing to suit my application with only having to change the rod on the diafram(probably not to important to start it and see if oil comes out with no pipes connected?).

Does that all make sense, would I do any damage by running the turbo with the diaphram disconnected(I know thats go something to do with boost) and apart from putting a peice of paper in front of the exaust exit(will be disconnected too) and the intake exit to look for oil spraying what other ways can I check it out?

[chops]

You can usually rotate the compressor cover (the silver bit) to change the angle of the outlet pipe

running the turbo with the wastegate actuator disconnected will cause you to run unlimited boost (under load, idle won't make any difference).. and if you're not careful, kaboom! bye-bye engine

physically look for oil leaks/stains. Don't forget to check for play in the shafts - grab it and wiggle side to side.. a tiny bit of movement is normal

Hope this helps

[high n mighty]

Thanks for that, I was just thinking today that I will take it into a local turbo shop whom I don't know etc and get them to check it out. There is an extremely small amount of play in the turbine and the thing looks clean as cept some black smokey residue on the turbine(not oily though) which Im guessing is normal.

If the seals are busted will it leak oil at idle even? I just wanna give it a run with no exhaust and no intake connected to make sure its not going to diesel on me and blow my engine up etc.

[BundyRumandCoke]

The wastegate actuator is sometimes on a bracket that is bolted to the turbo using the same bolts as what you undo to spin the compressor housing. Essentially, you should be able to loosen them off, spin the housing and retighten them, with no movement of the actuator.

[high n mighty]

Your right, it certainly is. It would require extending the hose off the back of the actuator, this wouldn't affect its oporation would it?


I also dont know what sort of turbo it is.
Looks to have come from a wreckers and has a white texta that says ZD30(guessing off a three ltr) on the outside and has HT12-X517 231D embossed into the compressor housing.

[HotFourOk]

Well my guess is it is off the ZD30 engine... this is the 3.0 litre motor out of a Series II GU Patrol ST and Nissan Navara.

The Nissan boys will help you out of the boost it runs etc...

[bluemq]

Seals won't be fucked, just check it for shaft play in both directions.

You'll find even turbo's that have excessive shaft play will still work quite reliably, one of my mates has a T28 that has so much shaft play it isn't funny, yet it's been pushing 1.2bar of air thru his motor for a good 2+ years now (in that condition).

It's only supposed to support .5 bar mind you (from the factory), so its running excessivly as it is.

[JemmyBubbles]

I would like to preface what I write here by saying all is now good and am extremely happy after turboing and problems getting sorted...

Bought a turbo off here. Put it on and it pissed oil from the compressor housing - out of the bolt holes. Initially we thought it to be seals but the turbo is practically brand new. Took it to binskins, fixitor all the reputable places in wauchope/prt macquarie. All were stumped. Some said seals, some said turbos don't have seals, some said it has definitely sucked something in.. lol ..

Sent it back to the dealer the chappy bought it off he tightened/re-seated the bolts on the compressor housing and leaks are gone..

Simple I never would have thought of doing that.

My only advice is if it all goes well it is fannntastic but when it turns to shit and it can very quickly and you will get conflicting opinions etc. about what is wrong, people will be reluctant to help especially if you haven't bought everything from them..

Send the turbo to denco and get them to check it out before you attack your car with spanners...

[high n mighty]

Its replacing a turbo that has been through similar to what you were explaining, TWICE and about $5000 alone spent on that turbo to get it right...


I just finished turning the Exhaust and air housings, looks the good. I cut the steel drain pipe back cause mine is a flexible hose so I will just clamp flexible hose to this, I also need to extand the hose off the boost actuator.

Now I have to get the lux around to my house and see how much of the old setup will mate in with the new one.


Quick question, with the valve shut in the exhaust port does that mean it is getting maximum boost or no boost? My thoughts say maximum....