Any pic of it wearing the real tyres?scat4x4 wrote: off road: 39x14.5 boggers with pneumatic bead locks
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F20 pix :)
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Probably a similiar place to that thief got his from. Maybe daihatsu made one with only one surround and it's a never ending chain of thefts.runnin4life wrote:a little off topic any one know where i can get one of the chrome rings thats goes around the head lights from
some little prick stole mine the other day
If God did not intend for us to eat animals, then why did he make them out of meat?
Pt3.
Going to try and fit the roof lining out of the Honda Accord.. it seems about the right length, just a bit of trimming shaping with a bit of luck, the roof rails should hold it in place and there is some room to tuck it in between the side walls and roof. The Honda steering column looks pretty neat too, might try and squeeze that in (less airbag ) allthough I'm not sure how handy a smaller wheel would be in the bush, or on the street for that matter.
Going to try and fit the roof lining out of the Honda Accord.. it seems about the right length, just a bit of trimming shaping with a bit of luck, the roof rails should hold it in place and there is some room to tuck it in between the side walls and roof. The Honda steering column looks pretty neat too, might try and squeeze that in (less airbag ) allthough I'm not sure how handy a smaller wheel would be in the bush, or on the street for that matter.
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where abouts are ya runnin for life, if you get stuck i think i may have some but in pretty rough condition gotta check the other shed.runnin4life wrote:a little off topic any one know where i can get one of the chrome rings thats goes around the head lights from
some little prick stole mine the other day
Im off again down to melbourne for a week so ill be offline till the 14th
I wish my girlfriend was this dirty!!!
Well, I just joined up and my little F20 aint quite as crazy as some on here, but i have a few plans for her and she was real cheap!!
I picked her up just over a week ago now for $800, there is only minor things wrong with her, and the engine is quiet, the gear box feels good, and once i fix up the front left hand hub lock she will be back to 4WD'ing goodness in no time!!
HOWEVER, there are a few cosmetics i need to attend to first.
Seats - I ripped these out on the weekend, they were well past their use by date!!
Spiders - it was a farm hack before i bought it, so it had its fair share of creepy crawlies I keep finding!!
Wiring - yes well, this needs a bit of attention, all the wiring is working, but all the switches are dead - so a bit of handy man weekend warrior should see me plugging in some new switches and bits and pieces.
Dials - well, the Tacho / Fuel gauge need to be replaced - the fuel gauge doesn't work, and the tacho has the needle snapped off, so a little stub works, but i want something i can see easier.
I need to sort out some dash illumination - as its hard to drive at night when i can't see my guages!! Makes it hard to avoid the boy's in blue as well hehe
I need a roof - it has the softtop, but thats completely dead!! Anyone know where i can get something cheap in Perth for teh winter before it starts to rain?? I can only handle driving in the rain so much without a roof haha
Rust - got a small amount of rust - worst part is just under the windscreen, but I am thinking I might just replace that whole windscreen panel with a fibreglass one, or else i will be cutting and welding, and bogging and painting!!
Also I need a new windscreen - mine has a nasty crack in it.
Along with windscreen - the wipers need attention, the motor ceased after half a rotation, so my windscreen wipers are stuck down haha
hmm, the more i talk like this the worse the car sounds!!
I mean, it almost made it home on its first trip - what more do you want it blew a heater hose on the way home from picking it up, and as i had no tools with me to bodgy it up, i had to get her towed.
Last but not least the starter motor is dead on the 12R - so i am trying to get my hands on one, but while it has no interior there isn't much point.
Once i get her cleaned up and running smoothly i will look at chopping out the last of the surface rust and giving her a respray -i can get my hands on some cheap "John Deere Green" so i will be thinking thats the go for this little beasty!!
Ok - enough rambling here are some pics!! I will be harassing you all for tech info before long so don't worry about that.
Oh yeah - I have a lust to bolt in a 4AGZE but looking into that later on down the track ....
I picked her up just over a week ago now for $800, there is only minor things wrong with her, and the engine is quiet, the gear box feels good, and once i fix up the front left hand hub lock she will be back to 4WD'ing goodness in no time!!
HOWEVER, there are a few cosmetics i need to attend to first.
Seats - I ripped these out on the weekend, they were well past their use by date!!
Spiders - it was a farm hack before i bought it, so it had its fair share of creepy crawlies I keep finding!!
Wiring - yes well, this needs a bit of attention, all the wiring is working, but all the switches are dead - so a bit of handy man weekend warrior should see me plugging in some new switches and bits and pieces.
Dials - well, the Tacho / Fuel gauge need to be replaced - the fuel gauge doesn't work, and the tacho has the needle snapped off, so a little stub works, but i want something i can see easier.
I need to sort out some dash illumination - as its hard to drive at night when i can't see my guages!! Makes it hard to avoid the boy's in blue as well hehe
I need a roof - it has the softtop, but thats completely dead!! Anyone know where i can get something cheap in Perth for teh winter before it starts to rain?? I can only handle driving in the rain so much without a roof haha
Rust - got a small amount of rust - worst part is just under the windscreen, but I am thinking I might just replace that whole windscreen panel with a fibreglass one, or else i will be cutting and welding, and bogging and painting!!
Also I need a new windscreen - mine has a nasty crack in it.
Along with windscreen - the wipers need attention, the motor ceased after half a rotation, so my windscreen wipers are stuck down haha
hmm, the more i talk like this the worse the car sounds!!
I mean, it almost made it home on its first trip - what more do you want it blew a heater hose on the way home from picking it up, and as i had no tools with me to bodgy it up, i had to get her towed.
Last but not least the starter motor is dead on the 12R - so i am trying to get my hands on one, but while it has no interior there isn't much point.
Once i get her cleaned up and running smoothly i will look at chopping out the last of the surface rust and giving her a respray -i can get my hands on some cheap "John Deere Green" so i will be thinking thats the go for this little beasty!!
Ok - enough rambling here are some pics!! I will be harassing you all for tech info before long so don't worry about that.
Oh yeah - I have a lust to bolt in a 4AGZE but looking into that later on down the track ....
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if you happen to find a sender unit any chance u can let me knowmanual wrote:
well the Fuel gauge need to be replaced - the fuel gauge doesn't work
aparently repco doesnt list the F20 in the system and i didnth avem uch with the other places either
mine has it in the same spot and it leaks and fills a small spot under the dash with water and as you take off you get half a cup of water on your footmanual wrote: Rust - got a small amount of rust - worst part is just under the windscreen
mine is rusted under the little black strip along the bottom of the windscreen frame
was thinking of just running a wire brush along and then rust convert and spray with a rust stoping primer then silicone it up and put the strip back on with more silicone
because i cant even find a guard let alone a windscreen panel or the panels thats just behind the bonnet
Hey - I know the mod bug quite well, my other car is a 95 TT Supra, and that is being built up for track work - so I know all too well about getting bit by the mod bugscat4x4 wrote:hehehe your bitten now manual!!!!!:D
Don't you bloody start!! I got my bro saying "350 chev" and my other mate saying 308 as well!!! They almost tempted me to put the 308 into my old TA22 celica, but i refrained.scat4x4 wrote:let us know if/when you drop a 308 in the little F20!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I will probably look at the 4AGZE - pending if I can find a way to bolt it to the gear box. But that isn't for a long time yet - the 12R runs very well, so I will see how it goes. (the guy i bought it from got it started, and left it idling for 90 minutes while I came to have a look!! Because the starter motor is dead - he couldn't start it and after 90 minutes of idling, it was fine!! not hot / not rattly / just idling away, could hardly even hear it!! - makes a change over the 2JZ in the supra with 3.5" worth of exhaust hahaha)
hmm... would probably get in strife for talking bout 2wd's but hey,
have you heard of the 7AGE/7AGZE/7AGTE conversion?
you take a 7AFE 1.8 motor tear off the head, and bolt on your 4A(n/a,turbo,supercharged) head you have to play with cam belts(from a porche from memory) but is relatively painless. so you get a 1.8 hipo motor and if they look under your bonnet all they see is a 1.6 head! ;)
btw ive done the measurements a 308 will fit, a gen III will only fit the ute(cause you can shift the radiator to the tray, just food for thought )
have you heard of the 7AGE/7AGZE/7AGTE conversion?
you take a 7AFE 1.8 motor tear off the head, and bolt on your 4A(n/a,turbo,supercharged) head you have to play with cam belts(from a porche from memory) but is relatively painless. so you get a 1.8 hipo motor and if they look under your bonnet all they see is a 1.6 head! ;)
btw ive done the measurements a 308 will fit, a gen III will only fit the ute(cause you can shift the radiator to the tray, just food for thought )
I wish my girlfriend was this dirty!!!
let us know how you go trying that, i really need a smaller wheel. WRX seats dont leave much room at all for the driver!TX4000 wrote:Pt3.
The Honda steering column looks pretty neat too, might try and squeeze that in (less airbag ) allthough I'm not sure how handy a smaller wheel would be in the bush, or on the street for that matter.
81' 2 door rangie 4.4l V8
ROCK 'N' ROLL AINT NOISE POLLUTION!
ROCK 'N' ROLL AINT NOISE POLLUTION!
Scat, The mods for the 7AFE arn't as beneficial as buying a 4AGZE and turboing it instead... The 4AGZE motor already has lower compression, ceramic coated pistons, stronger rods and stronger crank, etc etc, which would all need to be sourced and modified for use in the '7AGTE', to run any decent amounts of boost. It is a painful job and not very good bang for buck compared with the 4A block. (GE, GZE or GTE). The extra 200cc of displacement doesn't really make that much difference in the end.
[quote="RockyF70 - Coming out of the closet"]i'd be rushing out and buying an IFS rocky[/quote]
scat4x4 you have a pm please have a look
im in the middle of deciding on what to do with mine about to some into some money and i am wondering if i should dogy up the motor thats in there so it will last me another 3 or 4 years and do some suspension mods
or should i put a rebuilt motor in and see whats left over
and i dont wana put a diffrent motor because of engineering and alike i couldnt be stuffed trying to get it through
does any one know where i can get a rebuilt 12R from or know where i can get one rebuilt in nsw
cheers
elliot
im in the middle of deciding on what to do with mine about to some into some money and i am wondering if i should dogy up the motor thats in there so it will last me another 3 or 4 years and do some suspension mods
or should i put a rebuilt motor in and see whats left over
and i dont wana put a diffrent motor because of engineering and alike i couldnt be stuffed trying to get it through
does any one know where i can get a rebuilt 12R from or know where i can get one rebuilt in nsw
cheers
elliot
thanks for settin me straight must have been given a bum steerThe mods for the 7AFE arn't as beneficial as buying a 4AGZE and turboing it instead...
try bolting them straight to the floor im 6'3" and fit quite comfortably in an old set of buckets i had but couldnt when they were on runnersWRX seats dont leave much room at all for the driver!
I wish my girlfriend was this dirty!!!
Ahh Rex seats, nice they grab ya, yeah height is the thing you get sick of looking through the wiper blades all the time, I got Honda Accord seats and they are a tad high. I just finnished tinting the windows and havn't played with much else, but I will measure it up soon. I will cut the airbag off (its deployed and hanging out) and glue the lid up.. heheh F20 with airbag !! nice the column has heaps of switches an crap would be good to get the wipers an all on stick.. perhaps the intermitant too. I will meter it out and get the ignition, lights and inicators sorted first. I'm sure it will fit. has a very basic tube and uni setup, its just the distance between the dash and column shroud.Chris F20 maniac wrote:let us know how you go trying that, i really need a smaller wheel. WRX seats dont leave much room at all for the driver!TX4000 wrote:Pt3.
The Honda steering column looks pretty neat too, might try and squeeze that in (less airbag ) allthough I'm not sure how handy a smaller wheel would be in the bush, or on the street for that matter.
hey i was thinking of doing some tint work to mine how do you get the windows in the front and rear doors out
i know the side ones its just a case of poping the rubber out with the window in it
also any one know where i can get new rubbers because my rear side windows are starting to crack and i dont think they will servive the removal
cheers
elliot
i know the side ones its just a case of poping the rubber out with the window in it
also any one know where i can get new rubbers because my rear side windows are starting to crack and i dont think they will servive the removal
cheers
elliot
Ok heres the thing... they stay in place !
Measure up as closely and accurately as you can the window glass.. use a template if you want.. fish and chip paper is good (not used !!) wet the window and stick it to it if you need it makes it easier to cut.
Now cut the tint out (make sure that backing is on the side TO window- if you bugger up use the sheet for the opposite side) Test backing by getting some sticky tape and putting a strip on corner - and same corner on the back now pull sticky tabs apart and you will see tint and clear backing , turn template over and cut out other side tints (its good to get it all cut and ready first)
Now tools: a small squidgee is best (about 90-100mm long) ( I used a strip of the Whitefield mats I had to cut off to make fit - nice SQUARE EDGE) - or use a piece of wiper blade : some baby shampoo (a must) : NEW scalpel blade : trigger spray bottle - $2 dollar shop type : clean cloth.
Clean Clean Clean !!! windows MUST be clean as.. EDGES and RUBBER work MUST be clean, no dust no debris.
My F20 had had welding done in and out at some time and my window had some welding bugs stuck into glass - use a blade to scrape them off (gently) if left they form an airpocket IE: bubble.
I used Windex and lots of cloth, make sure windows are lint free.
Ok put some (about a capfull to 500mL or so) Baby shampoo in spray bottle & fill rest with water ( I used mineral water cuz there was some in the rubbish in back of car.) Get squidgee and make sure its clean too - spray subject window SOAK IT.. dont hold back and dont wuss about getting it on the frame/floor etc its water remember.
Now TIP #1 have your stickytape'd corners of subject tint ready but dont peel yet
( I used a piece of board to sit it on - like a kind of pallet for tint) peel diagonal SLOWLY the cleaner cut the tint the less chance of ripping - and it does rip easy.(dont let it fold anywhere as you peel because it will zigzag crease and thats impossible to get out) now about half way peeled hold clear sheet up off tint sheet and spray the tint itself LOTS, soak it - if its wet it wont stick together if you let it fold while lifting in place.
OK with tint and window soaked (do window again because it will have ran off a bit by now) lift tint carefully to window, get it roughly in place - now SOAK tint on the back HINT#2 DONT squeedge without water/shampoo it SCRATCHES) now squeege from the middle to the out side and push all the trapped water under the tint to the edges
KEEP PLENTY OF WATER MIX ON TINT BACK as you do it get all air bubbles/water out HINT#3 CHECK for air bubbles by looking at the outside in (they show up bad) and squeedge any little ones out (more water on back)
Now CARFULLY trim any over length edges as they will bubble up if they cant sit flat on glass. DONT pop bubbles with blade, because the air will be drawn back under tint via same hole - get all air by squeedging to edge
Carefully and I mean carefully wiper over tint to get any water off tint and edges of tint dont press hard because it will slide and bubble up again. Check from outside again to find any bubbles
On front windows and other opening glass trim tint about 1mm from top and side edges - use a straight edge if possible or flexy ruler, wait about 15 mins or so before cutting (its easier).
That was easy eh? Now move on to next window and do the same again, checking back on previous window after that, do next & next etc. give yourself plenty of time, and finnish others on next day if run out of time, remembering to clean before resuming.
Leave windows closed if possible for 3-4 days, wind down carefully if you need to, but best left closed
I enjoyed doing mine. good result for $40 bux worth of Supercheap Auto tint. Perhaps I should post this under its own topic ? Admin?
Measure up as closely and accurately as you can the window glass.. use a template if you want.. fish and chip paper is good (not used !!) wet the window and stick it to it if you need it makes it easier to cut.
Now cut the tint out (make sure that backing is on the side TO window- if you bugger up use the sheet for the opposite side) Test backing by getting some sticky tape and putting a strip on corner - and same corner on the back now pull sticky tabs apart and you will see tint and clear backing , turn template over and cut out other side tints (its good to get it all cut and ready first)
Now tools: a small squidgee is best (about 90-100mm long) ( I used a strip of the Whitefield mats I had to cut off to make fit - nice SQUARE EDGE) - or use a piece of wiper blade : some baby shampoo (a must) : NEW scalpel blade : trigger spray bottle - $2 dollar shop type : clean cloth.
Clean Clean Clean !!! windows MUST be clean as.. EDGES and RUBBER work MUST be clean, no dust no debris.
My F20 had had welding done in and out at some time and my window had some welding bugs stuck into glass - use a blade to scrape them off (gently) if left they form an airpocket IE: bubble.
I used Windex and lots of cloth, make sure windows are lint free.
Ok put some (about a capfull to 500mL or so) Baby shampoo in spray bottle & fill rest with water ( I used mineral water cuz there was some in the rubbish in back of car.) Get squidgee and make sure its clean too - spray subject window SOAK IT.. dont hold back and dont wuss about getting it on the frame/floor etc its water remember.
Now TIP #1 have your stickytape'd corners of subject tint ready but dont peel yet
( I used a piece of board to sit it on - like a kind of pallet for tint) peel diagonal SLOWLY the cleaner cut the tint the less chance of ripping - and it does rip easy.(dont let it fold anywhere as you peel because it will zigzag crease and thats impossible to get out) now about half way peeled hold clear sheet up off tint sheet and spray the tint itself LOTS, soak it - if its wet it wont stick together if you let it fold while lifting in place.
OK with tint and window soaked (do window again because it will have ran off a bit by now) lift tint carefully to window, get it roughly in place - now SOAK tint on the back HINT#2 DONT squeedge without water/shampoo it SCRATCHES) now squeege from the middle to the out side and push all the trapped water under the tint to the edges
KEEP PLENTY OF WATER MIX ON TINT BACK as you do it get all air bubbles/water out HINT#3 CHECK for air bubbles by looking at the outside in (they show up bad) and squeedge any little ones out (more water on back)
Now CARFULLY trim any over length edges as they will bubble up if they cant sit flat on glass. DONT pop bubbles with blade, because the air will be drawn back under tint via same hole - get all air by squeedging to edge
Carefully and I mean carefully wiper over tint to get any water off tint and edges of tint dont press hard because it will slide and bubble up again. Check from outside again to find any bubbles
On front windows and other opening glass trim tint about 1mm from top and side edges - use a straight edge if possible or flexy ruler, wait about 15 mins or so before cutting (its easier).
That was easy eh? Now move on to next window and do the same again, checking back on previous window after that, do next & next etc. give yourself plenty of time, and finnish others on next day if run out of time, remembering to clean before resuming.
Leave windows closed if possible for 3-4 days, wind down carefully if you need to, but best left closed
I enjoyed doing mine. good result for $40 bux worth of Supercheap Auto tint. Perhaps I should post this under its own topic ? Admin?
sweet that is the same way the tint i got says to do it but i was thinking if i could take the window out it would be easier
umm
would it be a good idea to take the bailey channel on the inside out seeing as the window is going to be wound up all the time
that way you can make the tint go a litle further past the bailey channel
and the bailey channel would be rubbing on the very edge of the tint and maybe peel it off
cheers
elliot
umm
would it be a good idea to take the bailey channel on the inside out seeing as the window is going to be wound up all the time
that way you can make the tint go a litle further past the bailey channel
and the bailey channel would be rubbing on the very edge of the tint and maybe peel it off
cheers
elliot
Well, with mine I trimmed back about 2mm from the edge of top of glass, and it only goes as far as the channel front and rear, that way its not being rubbed by the channel all the time. You cant really see any gaps. As it "Says on the box" if it lifts seal it with clear laquer on the edge. But I'd agree its far easier if they are out, but as far as the rear slide windows and the rear doors getting them in/out would just about stuff em.
Bugga, not repaireable ?? Rails bent ? Rollover ?? C'mon Chris fess up ? what did ya hit ?Chris F20 maniac wrote:tint looks great mate!
i had a crash in my F20 and the damage is not repairable so keep your ears to the ground and your eyes on the for sale section people cause im likely to be selling bits off it soon.
another car that was travelling 100kmh!!! very scary experience
the impact ripped off my bullbar and bent both of the rails about 10cm's toward the passenger side of the car.
the body damage is minimal but the structual damage to the front end is huge.
the impact ripped off my bullbar and bent both of the rails about 10cm's toward the passenger side of the car.
the body damage is minimal but the structual damage to the front end is huge.
81' 2 door rangie 4.4l V8
ROCK 'N' ROLL AINT NOISE POLLUTION!
ROCK 'N' ROLL AINT NOISE POLLUTION!
You hit another car at 100kmh in a hatsu with a chassis mounted bullbar and lived??? Damn right that's a scary experience!
I'm guessing it's not worth repairing your chassis?
As it happens I've got a spare f20 hatsu sitting in the shed at the moment that's being used for parts, perhaps you'd like to come 'round and check it out?
Where abouts in melbourne are you?
It'd be a shame to see another hatsu scrapped just because of a teensy little bit of crash damage!
I'm guessing it's not worth repairing your chassis?
As it happens I've got a spare f20 hatsu sitting in the shed at the moment that's being used for parts, perhaps you'd like to come 'round and check it out?
Where abouts in melbourne are you?
It'd be a shame to see another hatsu scrapped just because of a teensy little bit of crash damage!
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