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Disc Brake Caliper Brackets for a hilux
Moderators: toaddog, Elmo, DUDELUX
Joel, you wanna try some more pics........or try emailing them to me and I'll see if I can get them up.
craigtj@grapevine.net.au
Craig
craigtj@grapevine.net.au
Craig
Joel. does this setup require a master cylinder upgrade??
What model GQ Rotors? The reason i ask is that in bulk, i could probably get these at a really good price from DBA.
What model Scooby Doo calipers?
I will get a quote together to cut 40 of the plates out, that's 10 sets to start with. Hopefully we'll have the price early this week.
Cheers Chris
What model GQ Rotors? The reason i ask is that in bulk, i could probably get these at a really good price from DBA.
What model Scooby Doo calipers?
I will get a quote together to cut 40 of the plates out, that's 10 sets to start with. Hopefully we'll have the price early this week.
Cheers Chris
Outers & Arms up stickers coming soon you hungry bitches!
http://www.myultimate4wd.com
http://www.myultimate4wd.com
GRIMACE wrote:How I miss the days of care free wheelin with the crews!
You may want to check that an engineer is happy with the bracket being in 2 pieces. The Engineer i used to deal with in QLD wanted the bracket in one piece.
You should be able to make it this way and have it slide over the housing still.
I also found with my set up when i changed from a normal hoising to an IFS housing i had to space the calipers out 2mm more.
You should be able to make it this way and have it slide over the housing still.
I also found with my set up when i changed from a normal hoising to an IFS housing i had to space the calipers out 2mm more.
what i think would be a very very good idea is to get all the small brake lines made up and sell them with the brackets, every one will need them and should end up cheaper than if we all went out and did it our selfs.
I think selling the discs with the kit wont reall work out as u have plane discs, slotted and cross drilled to pick from in not the wreckers, and any savings in bulk buying of the discs would be eaten up buy the extra postage costs.
I think selling the discs with the kit wont reall work out as u have plane discs, slotted and cross drilled to pick from in not the wreckers, and any savings in bulk buying of the discs would be eaten up buy the extra postage costs.
Shane
would the bracket be able to be made in one peice? would that mean only 3 mounting bolts then??? would an engineer like that at all?
apart from brackets, and rotors, what else would need to be done?
different hose? differnt handbrake cable? same master cylinder is fine??
cheers greg
apart from brackets, and rotors, what else would need to be done?
different hose? differnt handbrake cable? same master cylinder is fine??
cheers greg
bundy's suck ass
LWB patrol's are where its at!
LWB patrol's are where its at!
Don't want to be a party pooper but the brackets are only a small part of the whole package, IF you want it work
These calpiers are not a hydraulic match for most Toy systems so you will have to do a lot of other upgrades to get them to even work as good as your current drums,
The earlier type Subi calipers are a lot closer match, not those in the pics as they use a huge piston that requires a lot of fluid volume etc.
I also found the handbrake needed some mods to get it to hold.
For information only
http://members.iinet.net.au/~ozrunner/Drivetrain3.html
These calpiers are not a hydraulic match for most Toy systems so you will have to do a lot of other upgrades to get them to even work as good as your current drums,
The earlier type Subi calipers are a lot closer match, not those in the pics as they use a huge piston that requires a lot of fluid volume etc.
I also found the handbrake needed some mods to get it to hold.
For information only
http://members.iinet.net.au/~ozrunner/Drivetrain3.html
ozrunner wrote:Don't want to be a party pooper but the brackets are only a small part of the whole package, IF you want it work
These calpiers are not a hydraulic match for most Toy systems so you will have to do a lot of other upgrades to get them to even work as good as your current drums,
The earlier type Subi calipers are a lot closer match, not those in the pics as they use a huge piston that requires a lot of fluid volume etc.
I also found the handbrake needed some mods to get it to hold.
For information only
http://members.iinet.net.au/~ozrunner/Drivetrain3.html
Thank you ozrunner
Yes these brackets are only a small part of the job, but one of the fiddley parts. The subaru calipers do require more fluid but from the information that i have recieved from someone who has done this conversion setup before (very clewy), is that it damatically increases braking, he was running the standard master cylinder and booster, he didn't use an aftermarket brake biasing valve but suggested that it would make it easier to fine tune the rear braking power.
I'm simply doing this conversion myself and am selling these brackets to mount the calipers to the diff housing.
I do not guarantee that is this enginner passable because that is at the discretion of the enginner.
The factory handbrake cable can be retro fitted to the existing hilux setup, or you can use the subaru handbrake lever and cut a hole in you floor to mount it.
There is a slight amount of grinding required on the caliper. The reasons for this are becaused the caliper is designed for a substantually smaller rotor. using the GQ rotor doesn't allow the full surface area of the brake pad to be used. Pics to came explain further and demonstrate this. The amount that is removed is very small i don't believe will effect the strength of the caliper.
I will have more pics to come of a mock setup, hopefully tonight or tomorrow.
DX80 35's twin locked turbo diesel = TANG
www.jaybeecanvas.com
www.jaybeecanvas.com
This too may be engineer un-friendly. Not many engineers like modified braking components.There is a slight amount of grinding required on the caliper. The reasons for this are becaused the caliper is designed for a substantually smaller rotor. using the GQ rotor doesn't allow the full surface area of the brake pad to be used. Pics to came explain further and demonstrate this. The amount that is removed is very small i don't believe will effect the strength of the caliper.
[quote="Harb"]Well I'm guessing that they didn't think everyone would carry on like a big bunch of sooky girls over it like they have........[/quote]
Mate I can see where you’re at and wanting to help out and that is great, but on issues such as braking there should be no compromises. Supplying brackets is fine if the follow up parts are all basic items and matched etc that guys can use and in this case they are not.
Rear disc brakes on Toys has been an ongoing issue for years and the reason shops don’t have straight bolt up systems available is because none will work.
The cruiser systems are the only ones that will work without any major changes as they are designed to match the respective Toy MC volumes etc but the problem there is they all use an internal shoe handbrake etc.
First off, the use of GU discs is mentioned. According to DBA these have a centre hole of 111mm. The Toy rear axles is 106 so what is proposed is highly illegal not to mention potentially dangerous. The purpose of the centre hole in discs is to absolutely centrally locate the disc on the axle. Because of its larger hole the GU disc will have to rely on it being centrally located by the wheel nut studs and only then if their chamfer is correct. Otherwise the only thing holding the disc in place will be the tightness of your wheel studs, which is not enough to stop the disc from moving under heavy brake applications, consequently it would be possible for the disc to even move oblong etc with resultant consequences.
No reputable brake engineer would tick off using these discs for this reason and that’s why first off you need to use front Hilux/Cruiser discs but have them machined to 106mm so they are properly located. Stock 75 series rear discs slip straight on but they are machined for internal shoes and have a lot of overhang etc.
Subi calipers are front calipers and we all know that there is more front bias in MC’s etc so when they are put on the rear of a Toy the Toy MC is sadly lacking in volume as it biased for a piddly drum brake cylinder. Most then think its just a case of using a larger MC (me included ) but the problem is that this then screws up your front system if its also not designed for the bigger MC etc. There are a variety of MC sizes used on Toys, which further exacerbates the problems.
Most guys probably have the smaller Toy MC so immediately they will need to upgrade to the Toy 1â€
Rear disc brakes on Toys has been an ongoing issue for years and the reason shops don’t have straight bolt up systems available is because none will work.
The cruiser systems are the only ones that will work without any major changes as they are designed to match the respective Toy MC volumes etc but the problem there is they all use an internal shoe handbrake etc.
First off, the use of GU discs is mentioned. According to DBA these have a centre hole of 111mm. The Toy rear axles is 106 so what is proposed is highly illegal not to mention potentially dangerous. The purpose of the centre hole in discs is to absolutely centrally locate the disc on the axle. Because of its larger hole the GU disc will have to rely on it being centrally located by the wheel nut studs and only then if their chamfer is correct. Otherwise the only thing holding the disc in place will be the tightness of your wheel studs, which is not enough to stop the disc from moving under heavy brake applications, consequently it would be possible for the disc to even move oblong etc with resultant consequences.
No reputable brake engineer would tick off using these discs for this reason and that’s why first off you need to use front Hilux/Cruiser discs but have them machined to 106mm so they are properly located. Stock 75 series rear discs slip straight on but they are machined for internal shoes and have a lot of overhang etc.
Subi calipers are front calipers and we all know that there is more front bias in MC’s etc so when they are put on the rear of a Toy the Toy MC is sadly lacking in volume as it biased for a piddly drum brake cylinder. Most then think its just a case of using a larger MC (me included ) but the problem is that this then screws up your front system if its also not designed for the bigger MC etc. There are a variety of MC sizes used on Toys, which further exacerbates the problems.
Most guys probably have the smaller Toy MC so immediately they will need to upgrade to the Toy 1â€
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