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75 series diffs under 40 series
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75 series diffs under 40 series
Looking at getting a set of late model 75 series diffs to put under my 40
Is this possible?
Have heard that the 40 and 75 share the same housing and that they are the same track width? Is this true?
Are the spring perches in the same position
Cheers
Is this possible?
Have heard that the 40 and 75 share the same housing and that they are the same track width? Is this true?
Are the spring perches in the same position
Cheers
Must be thinking of early 75s then
I thought about going 60s but isnt there alot of stuffing around with the driver side spring because of the diff center
Was more looking for something that will bolt straight in to give me disc brakes, dont wanna stuff around with parts from different models, prefer complete diff so if i break it i dont need to remember what model the broken bit came from
I thought about going 60s but isnt there alot of stuffing around with the driver side spring because of the diff center
Was more looking for something that will bolt straight in to give me disc brakes, dont wanna stuff around with parts from different models, prefer complete diff so if i break it i dont need to remember what model the broken bit came from
late model 40 series have discs and are the right width. take your pick after 1976Barney7779 wrote:Must be thinking of early 75s then
I thought about going 60s but isnt there alot of stuffing around with the driver side spring because of the diff center
Was more looking for something that will bolt straight in to give me disc brakes, dont wanna stuff around with parts from different models, prefer complete diff so if i break it i dont need to remember what model the broken bit came from
and a disc conversion isn't that bad... just a knuckle off a 60, an early 75, a 40, or a solid axle hilux... most the seal kits are the same part, cv's are interchangeable, i think it'll be the rotor that will be the OnLY part you'll have to "remember"....
Spit my last breath
bad_religion_au wrote:late model 40 series have discs and are the right width. take your pick after 1976Barney7779 wrote:Must be thinking of early 75s then
I thought about going 60s but isnt there alot of stuffing around with the driver side spring because of the diff center
Was more looking for something that will bolt straight in to give me disc brakes, dont wanna stuff around with parts from different models, prefer complete diff so if i break it i dont need to remember what model the broken bit came from
and a disc conversion isn't that bad... just a knuckle off a 60, an early 75, a 40, or a solid axle hilux... most the seal kits are the same part, cv's are interchangeable, i think it'll be the rotor that will be the OnLY part you'll have to "remember"....
So if i just take the whole swivel hub off a hilux it will all bolt up no probs????
What mods will be needed for the master cylinder to get correct front to back bias?
By the way mine is a 78 BJ40
Shadow wrote:Get a 60 series swivel hub as they have vented rotors where as earlier hilux ones are solid.
It would probably be worthwhile fitting a late 40 series or any 60 series master cylinder aswell. This should just bolt into the same spot no mods required and should work with your rear drums fine.
Cool thanx for that mate
Just to throw a spanner in the works, looking into this conversion aswell for the rear ...... looks to be a pretty simple conversion ..... anyone done it????
http://www.employees.org/~dirttrak//rea ... ersion.htm
75 diffs will be the right width but the spring perches are about 10mm farther apart. You can easily grind the old ones off and weld them back in place closer to the centre, but the one on the dirver's side needs a bit grinding so it would ride up the pumpkin, otherwise the cruiser would lean as the drivers side perch ends up a little higher.
Like bad_religion says, the easiest ones to use are 40 series front diffs with disc brakes. 45 series fronts still have drums. If you get a 1979 or later diff you get the larger steering arm bolt pattern suitable for high steer arms like those sold by Snake Racing.
The conversion in the link above was done by a mate of mine. His was possible because of the bolt pattern on the pre 1981 diff housings. The 1981 or later rear diffs have a different pattern, but an adapter can be made and welded directly to the housing.
Dave
Like bad_religion says, the easiest ones to use are 40 series front diffs with disc brakes. 45 series fronts still have drums. If you get a 1979 or later diff you get the larger steering arm bolt pattern suitable for high steer arms like those sold by Snake Racing.
The conversion in the link above was done by a mate of mine. His was possible because of the bolt pattern on the pre 1981 diff housings. The 1981 or later rear diffs have a different pattern, but an adapter can be made and welded directly to the housing.
Dave
yep this is the prime way of doing it, but if hilux solid rotors come up cheap enough, there isn't a massive difference in vented if you don't drive like a loon. both'll be an improvement.Shadow wrote:Get a 60 series swivel hub as they have vented rotors where as earlier hilux ones are solid.
It would probably be worthwhile fitting a late 40 series or any 60 series master cylinder aswell. This should just bolt into the same spot no mods required and should work with your rear drums fine.
a master cyl from a disc brake 40 will get your bias right. i've heard of people doint this and keeping their old master too so :S
and yeah, Fj's got discs, Bj's didn't get discs till the 42's i think
Spit my last breath
It is not the brake bias as much as the brake residual pressure valve. Drum brakes need a higher residual pressure to keep the brake springs form collapsing the brake cylinders, discs don't. If you run a drum brake master on a disc brake diff, the calipers will always be under excessive residual pressure, so the pads will drag on the rotor causing rapid wear and brake fade.
Dave
Dave
yep that's what i assumed he meant by bias. i've heard you can pull the residual valve out of the master.beanz2 wrote:It is not the brake bias as much as the brake residual pressure valve. Drum brakes need a higher residual pressure to keep the brake springs form collapsing the brake cylinders, discs don't. If you run a drum brake master on a disc brake diff, the calipers will always be under excessive residual pressure, so the pads will drag on the rotor causing rapid wear and brake fade.
Dave
Spit my last breath
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