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Which ute is tougher? (Build up project)

General Tech Talk

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Post by chimpboy »

GQ wagon, high miler or blown engine, maybe even some damage at rear, from an auction should be well under $4000. Cut into dual/extra cab, make your own tray.

If you get a wagon with the small motor you get diff ratios well suited to the big rubber, and you don't care what original motor is in there anyway.

You might even score one with a factory rear locker, although I wouldn't count on that.

Still leaves you plenty to spend before you hit the $10k mark.

Jason
This is not legal advice.
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Post by Josh_GQ »

chimpboy wrote:GQ wagon, high miler or blown engine, maybe even some damage at rear, from an auction should be well under $4000. Cut into dual/extra cab, make your own tray.

If you get a wagon with the small motor you get diff ratios well suited to the big rubber, and you don't care what original motor is in there anyway.

You might even score one with a factory rear locker, although I wouldn't count on that.

Still leaves you plenty to spend before you hit the $10k mark.

Jason
If you can do most of the fabrication work yourself and like working on cars then this is definently the way to go
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gq

Post by known 2 »

GQ's are so comon but they are tuffer a mate is selling a gq coilcab petrol with a 4i lift frony locker and 33's for 10k if ur interested. but 75-45 cruisers look way better and will probably go for longer as well. cos how many nisans do u see araound from the 70' and 80's not many
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Re: gq

Post by Hoonz »

known 2 wrote:GQ's are so comon but they are tuffer a mate is selling a gq coilcab petrol with a 4i lift frony locker and 33's for 10k if ur interested. but 75-45 cruisers look way better and will probably go for longer as well. cos how many nisans do u see araound from the 70' and 80's not many
but how many 45 - 75 cruisers do you see doing comp work compared to nissans ...
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Re: gq

Post by Patroler »

known 2 wrote:GQ's are so comon but they are tuffer a mate is selling a gq coilcab petrol with a 4i lift frony locker and 33's for 10k if ur interested. but 75-45 cruisers look way better and will probably go for longer as well. cos how many nisans do u see araound from the 70' and 80's not many
If gq's are 'tuffer' why would 75-45 cruisers go for longer?

I'd agree that the 80-100s could be a bit more comfortable inside, but the gq/gu drive train is more likely to handle the engine you're talking about, it's heaps stronger!

If you did as josh_gq suggested and got the small motor gq wagon just make sure you get the gearbox from a 4.2 diesel or petrol as they are stronger than the 2.8td and 3l petrol box. The diffs are the same just have higher ratios for bigger tyres 4.3 instead of 4.1 iirc
There are no stupid questions, but there are a LOT of inquisitive idiots
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Post by cutzook »

ssangyong musso :armsup:
http://www.fourbys.com.au/
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Post by Maggot4x4 »

NJ SWB wrote:
Maggot4x4 wrote:Big Cab Defender, <snip>

Oh, and it never looks like you bought the "OLD" shape :D :armsup: :roll: ;)
No, it ALWAYS looks like you bought the "OLD" shape. :finger:

Scott
Nah :D
[quote="Wooders"]If ya want a 4x4 camry go ahead & buy a Patrol or Cruiser.[/quote]Rangie with 80s LC diffs, Isuzu 4bd1, Twin ARB lockers, 8000lb Hi mount warn, 315x75x16 Procomp XTerrains
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Post by 460cixy »

my call would be with defender. but you better buy a japper wouldent wanna be diffrant would ya ;)
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Post by ofr57 »

every man and his dog has a patrol coily ute

I'd go landrover choped ute

I've seen one and it goes great
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Post by sudso »

:D :D :D
Looks like the old rivalry between nissan-cruiser-landy is alive and healthy.

Well I got something on the weekend but its not what I was originally thinking of but the missus and I sorta really liked what we found and decided to get it:

A coil sprung RJ70 (I think thats right) Bundera complete except motor. Body is good, has SFA rust spots, ARB locked rear with compressor, v/good interior, 2" spring lift, bushes etc. in good nick, winch bar, 33" JT's with good tread, pwr.stg. Oh yeah: 2K :armsup:
So I think we're off to a good start to build up a fun weekend warrior machine for under 10K.

Think I might stick with the power robbing TH350 auto on the chev though but get a less power robbing smaller convertor that locks up at low revs, Should be able to get one off the shelf, it also has a B&M shift kit in it too but I dont know if thats a good thing or not when off road.
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Post by scout392 »

I run the lower stall in my V8 and yes it better off road but some times on road I wish the stall were stock.
Also better economy
Less heat in the auto

Also what state will you be rego in?

Eric
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Post by -Scott- »

scout392 wrote:I run the lower stall in my V8 and yes it better off road but some times on road I wish the stall were stock.
Also better economy
Less heat in the auto
Did I read that some of the rock crawling buggies run super high stall converters? 4k plus?

Obviously, they're not concerned about on-road performance...

Scott
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Post by sudso »

scout392 wrote:I run the lower stall in my V8 and yes it better off road but some times on road I wish the stall were stock.
Also better economy
Less heat in the auto

Also what state will you be rego in?

Eric
SA

Mechanic mate reckons my stock converter should be alright (T/H350). Reckons it would lock up at about 1200rpm but put a manual valve body kit in it too.

Lock up at 1200 seems high to me for off road. All depends though on diff gearing and transfer ratio. I do know that my Bundy has 4.88 diff gears but 285/85/16 JT's which are 33-34"
What rpm does your converter lock up at?
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Post by Wooders »

If ya want a 4x4 camry go ahead & buy a Patrol or Cruiser.
My pick (based on the budget etc) would be go defender OR F truck or FSJ.

Eg our FSJ (FullSizeJeep) is a J20, has nice big solid diffs, strong chassis (rated at 2 tonne), has big towing and load carrying capacity...and IMHO if you have half a brain with DIY mods is a cheap platform to build upon.

We paid a piddly $3k, we are now dropping in an AMC360 (cost $500), have a 4" lift (cost $1k), bling H2 Alloy rims (Cost $750 for 4), and will be fabricating bumpers steps etc ourselves. Oh yeah as well as nice big diffs (8 lugger Dana44 front & Dana60 rear) it came standard with a T18 gearbox - which has 6.32:1 first gear (also bloody strong).

We're also dropping in new seats, carpets, stereo & lockers etc....and will cost less than 10k for soemthing strong, capable, practical and DIFFERENT.

But hey I hear the Camry's can be improved ;)
Cheers [url=http://www.wooders.com.au]Wooders[/url]
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Post by sudso »

Sounds like a sweet rig Wooders.
Guess my "camry" will do me for a while.
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Post by Wooders »

I was thinking something like this would be a good platform ;)
Cheers [url=http://www.wooders.com.au]Wooders[/url]
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Post by sudso »

A tough old classic no doubt but I'm committed now to the Bundera, not so old and a lot less cancer.

Whatdya reckon that Jeep will go for?

Back to the Bundy, I rang Vehicle Standards SA today and told them of my intentions: (350 chev transplant) and he said the main issues to engineer may be braking and torsional stiffness. Cant see it being a problem though, the brakes and chassis are Landcruiser based.

Next step is to complete the application and forward to an engineer for scrutinising.
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Post by Wooders »

sudso wrote:A tough old classic no doubt but I'm committed now to the Bundera, not so old and a lot less cancer.

Whatdya reckon that Jeep will go for?
Blundeara. Not a bad unit....but its no ute ;)
The Jeep - I;d guess >$1k since there's no donk etc...
Cheers [url=http://www.wooders.com.au]Wooders[/url]
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Post by sudso »

Wooders wrote:
sudso wrote:A tough old classic no doubt but I'm committed now to the Bundera, not so old and a lot less cancer.

Whatdya reckon that Jeep will go for?
Blundeara. Not a bad unit....but its no ute ;)
The Jeep - I;d guess >$1k since there's no donk etc...
cut cut, grind grind, weld weld:=1 Blundeara xtra cab ute :D

well maybe
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Post by -Scott- »

sudso wrote:
Wooders wrote:
sudso wrote:A tough old classic no doubt but I'm committed now to the Bundera, not so old and a lot less cancer.

Whatdya reckon that Jeep will go for?
Blundeara. Not a bad unit....but its no ute ;)
The Jeep - I;d guess >$1k since there's no donk etc...
cut cut, grind grind, weld weld:=1 Blundeara xtra cab ute :D

well maybe
Isn't the Bundera a MWB? By the time you've got an extracab, how long will your tray be?
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Post by grimbo »

why on earth did you set out to get a ute, then buy a Bundera, then want to convertthat into a ute. Why not just continue searching and find a ute. If you convert the Bundy into a ute you will end up with a very small ute not much use for anything
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Post by scout392 »

sudso wrote:
scout392 wrote:I run the lower stall in my V8 and yes it better off road but some times on road I wish the stall were stock.
Also better economy
Less heat in the auto

Also what state will you be rego in?

Eric
SA

Mechanic mate reckons my stock converter should be alright (T/H350). Reckons it would lock up at about 1200rpm but put a manual valve body kit in it too.

Lock up at 1200 seems high to me for off road. All depends though on diff gearing and transfer ratio. I do know that my Bundy has 4.88 diff gears but 285/85/16 JT's which are 33-34"
What rpm does your converter lock up at?
1200rpm seems low for stock I would have thought 16/1800rpm would be stock.
Mine is 11/1200 but not sure really I will have look tonight.
Scout 345 v8 with the tourqufilite auto was 1600rpm stall.

Eric
78 scout 392ci V8 LPG, 727 TF, dana 20, dana 44 locked and loaded, 9" rear Diff. 10inch lift'n'so on
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Post by scout392 »

Wooders wrote:If ya want a 4x4 camry go ahead & buy a Patrol or Cruiser.
My pick (based on the budget etc) would be go defender OR F truck or FSJ.

Eg our FSJ (FullSizeJeep) is a J20, has nice big solid diffs, strong chassis (rated at 2 tonne), has big towing and load carrying capacity...and IMHO if you have half a brain with DIY mods is a cheap platform to build upon.

We paid a piddly $3k, we are now dropping in an AMC360 (cost $500), have a 4" lift (cost $1k), bling H2 Alloy rims (Cost $750 for 4), and will be fabricating bumpers steps etc ourselves. Oh yeah as well as nice big diffs (8 lugger Dana44 front & Dana60 rear) it came standard with a T18 gearbox - which has 6.32:1 first gear (also bloody strong).



We're also dropping in new seats, carpets, stereo & lockers etc....and will cost less than 10k for soemthing strong, capable, practical and DIFFERENT.

But hey I hear the Camry's can be improved ;)
Some of the FSJ came stock with a dana60 with 5on5.5 bolt pattern and 1.5 inch shafts :cool:

Were they all the t18 or were the t18a, t19 or t19a an option also?

Eric
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Post by grimbo »

Wooders wrote:I was thinking something like this would be a good platform ;)
that would be awesome to build up as a play truck. I love the old FSJ. There is one in Mordialloc which has sat in the guys front yard for years never moving. Been very tempted to go in and offer him something for it. Just what i need another car sitting at home
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Post by dirtyGQ »

I HAVE A F250 1979 4WD IT IS CRAP OFFROAD TO BIG NO FLEX AND CARBURATED AND ...PETROL.. I HATE BIG AMERICAN TRUCKS FOR OFFROAD AND THE JEEP IS NO EXEPTION... MY THOUGHTS...
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Post by 460cixy »

dirtyGQ wrote:I HAVE A F250 1979 4WD IT IS CRAP OFFROAD TO BIG NO FLEX AND CARBURATED AND ...PETROL.. I HATE BIG AMERICAN TRUCKS FOR OFFROAD AND THE JEEP IS NO EXEPTION... MY THOUGHTS...
lol who says it has to be carby and have no flex yeah nice caps too sport
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Post by dirtyGQ »

oops sorry about the CAPS
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Post by ORSM45 »

RoeDao wrote:they make a manifold called a "Torquer" which is a high rise manifold..... the poverty way out of it is to put a 2" carby spacer oddly enough, under your carby ;) and machine the plenum out of the factory manifold.. i used to do heaps of them for the budget performance guys years ago before electronic engine management.
its called a "torker". and they are a single plane LOW-rise manifold. made by edelbrock.

i dont think a 2 inch spacer does anything when on LPG. its only to atomise the petrol.
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Post by cloughy »

ORSM45 wrote:
RoeDao wrote:they make a manifold called a "Torquer" which is a high rise manifold..... the poverty way out of it is to put a 2" carby spacer oddly enough, under your carby ;) and machine the plenum out of the factory manifold.. i used to do heaps of them for the budget performance guys years ago before electronic engine management.
its called a "torker". and they are a single plane LOW-rise manifold. made by edelbrock.

i dont think a 2 inch spacer does anything when on LPG. its only to atomise the petrol.
Which is good for horsepower not torque or throttle response
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Post by Wooders »

dirtyGQ wrote:I HAVE A F250 1979 4WD IT IS CRAP OFFROAD TO BIG NO FLEX AND CARBURATED AND ...PETROL.. I HATE BIG AMERICAN TRUCKS FOR OFFROAD AND THE JEEP IS NO EXEPTION... MY THOUGHTS...
LOL flex is dependant on the suspension & how you tune it. Although in our case I don't really want/expect it to flex too much as it will be a work ute and lockers will help get over the lack of flex ;)
As for carby - well you COULD run it on gas. But I;m planing an MPI conversion for ours ;)
It will never be as capable as our TJ offoad and will never be a rock hopper - but will still hold it's head proud for generall offoad use and slave duties.....If your junk isn't perfecting ask yourself why/where it's not.....
Cheers [url=http://www.wooders.com.au]Wooders[/url]
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