Starting problem with Rangie

[Rangie Motivated]

I'm not sure if this is a good sign or not, but I just found and joined this forum about 10 hrs ago and I just went to go for a drive in RR and it wont go.

So before I start at the beginning, it looks like a great forum, I have already hunted up heap I want to do to my Rangie.

Now heres the long story.......

Rangie is a 1987 sitting here in sunny NZ (yep, I'm a kiwi).

I purchased it as a work vehicle/project, and to use as a learning curve, it's my first Rangie.

1st lesson learnt.... dont buy a rangie unless you know what you are doing.

When I first purchased the rangie it ran ok, nothing brilliant, but good enough for what I wanted. Sadly a couple of mths later a clonk appeared in the transfer box, nothing dramatic, then the idle went all to hell. When its cold it was idling ok, but soon as it got warm it wouldnt idle unless I kept my foot on the accelerator (something I would normally enjoy doing, but not to keep it idling). I found a vacuum pipe with nothing on it (pictured below) and so I put a bit of rubber hose on it with a screw in the end just to block it off to see what would happen. Idle was higher until it was taken for a drive then every time I took my foot off the accelerator it would stall, 100km or 5km an hr it just didnt matter, so I removed the hose and got used to driving with 1 foot on the brake and the other on the accelerator.

Just before xmas I had to make an urgent trip to Oz. Returning home 3 wks later the battery was flat so I put the battery charger on. A couple of days later I went into the garage, removed the battery charger, and turned her over. Away she went sweet as, it has always started great.

As I had taken it off the road for a few minor repairs I just moved it out of the garage, cleaned up the floor and work bench, start the thing up again and put it back in the garage and connected up the battery charger again. The battery charger is an old thing that only trickle feeds and takes a few days to really charge a battery.

Today I had to drop some gear off at work so I thought I would take the Rangie out for a run. It turns over nice, but thats all it does, it doesn't even look like firing.

I dont think the vacuum has anything to do with it not starting, but while under the bonnet I found a hose that goes to a round bottle, round as in ball round (photo below).

I thought I might as well try to get this vacuum thing sorted while hoping some-one can give me some idea on what to check in an attempt to get the old thing back on the road. At this point I cant even find the fuel line to disconnect it to see if its getting fuel.

I have no problems fixing a motor with carb and points, but I'm ignorant of these things with efi and electronic ignition. Add to that, I'm not a fan of lucas wiring and under the bonnet of this thing is a good example why.

Heres the photos:
This bottle (left front of car) has a hose going nowhere that is long enough to reach the other side of the motor where the vacuum leak is, problem is the hose has been resting on the exhaust and is now stuffed, other problem is I dont know if its meant to go to the vacuum.

Thanks for any help
Regards Kelvyn

[Rangie Motivated]

I just thought of a few of other things...
If anyone knows where theres an online manual I can read over it might be handy. I know nthing about Rangies. I have no idea what that bottle is with the 2 hoses coming out of it, and no idea what the story is with the vacuum on the other side. I'm trying to avoid buying a Haines manual as I would rather put the money into new suspension, and body lift, both 2", and some good off-road/on-road tyres. I was going to buy a damaged 3.9 rangie for spares and give it a serious make over, but I cant afford everything.

A wiring diagram would be very much appreciated, as all I know at the moment is that I have a lot of mainly bear wires and a bunch of black boxes of differing sizes.

All thoughts appreciated here:
I do like efi, I think it would be more economical, but if I rip all that off and stick a carb or 2 on then I could rewire it with a very limited amount of wires. Wouldnt this be better for off-roading and trouble shooting ??

[Rangie Motivated]

last thing for now:
Would a set of Old Man Emu Shock Absorbers out of 91 Range Rover be suitable for a 2" suspension lift on my 87. They are only a few months old.
My suspension is really stuffed.

Thanks again

[Loanrangie]

The black bottle is just a vacum reservoir for the heater/ vent controls, the vacumport on the manifold i think should be connected to the fuel pressure regulator which should be to the left of the photo at the end of the fuel rail.

[Philip A]

The vacuum port usually runs to the little accumulator as you detail. On a 3.9 the fuel pressure regulator should have a hose into the plenum at the back, however I am not sure of the 3.5. check to see if the regulator has a vacuum hose that goes somewhere. It is located in the back of the fuel rail on The RHS of teh engine.
When you closed of the vacuum leak you will have reduced the air into the engine , so the idle will slow down.
Looking at the motor it looks neglected so anything could be wrong. If you do not feel secure, take it to a Rover specialist, as there could be multiple injection problems, seeing someone had monkeyed with it.

I would first clean out the area around the throttle butterfly, and the throttle blade and the pipe running from the cranckase ventilator. Just take off the air flow meter and you will see the butterfly. Get in there with carb cleaner and a rag.
To raise the idle there is a screw at the top of the throttle body. Turn this out to increase the idle.
If that doesn't fix it you should really call in an expert.
regards Philip A

[81 rangie]

If you are new with rangies i would spend the 40 or so bux on a manuel, as it will save alot of guessing and stuffin around. I have found mine very helpful.

[Rangie Motivated]

Thanks guys I'll check what I can and get a manual.

Regards Kelvyn