who's got a weber on a sierra

[Acca Dacca]

think about how muck pissing around there is doing efi and the cost of efi. there is a lot less with a weber and ya can have it all done and working for under $300. and the difference is huge

Well from what I've gathered on how you can put TBI on, it wouldn't be that much more expensive. Could even be cheaper. Depends how you do it though. If you managed to get a donor car that had been in a smash then it could be cheap. If you had to fork out for every part needed from a wreckers then it would get expensive.

How hard it would be would depend on the parts used.

I personally would rather go efi over a weber. That's because I don't like the stalling issue on top of the benefits of efi over carby.

But efi is a little more drastic, webers just the tuning that sounds like a pain.

[jabtronic]

The letters are DVAG19A

I had a look at that weber.zip and the pdf file, but when I hooked the vacuum lines up by that the car seemed to hunt(?) (rev up and down) at idle.

With how I have it set up the carby runs, however when I rev it takes ages for the revs to die down again. It's not anything to do with the accelerator linkages so it must be the hoses.


Here are some more pics, that clearly show where I have the lines going to, let me know which ones are into the wrong positions.

[jabtronic]

Oh and also my accelerator linkage bracket was done quick and dodgy, I'd like to change it to something better eventually. Does anyone have pics of how theirs is mounted? Can you buy a premade bracket?

[jabtronic]

Ok I've plugged the distributor line into the nipple that is in the first picture above. Because that seems like the right one.

I now have two lines left on the carb. One that is on the very bottom sticking out on the corner at 45 degree, and then theres the one that hangs off that big vacuum box thing at the front.

The carby runs fine, the only problem is the revs dont drop when I put in the clutch etc.

[JrZook]

Just wondering, you have connected the pvc valve back up, in your second pic. The valve out of the intake manifold. Also do youe self a favour and rotate the carb 180 deg so the fuel bowl is at the back of the carb, stops floodin up hill. Check your linkages on the primary and secondary shafts and make sure they dont bind at all, and even add a throttle return spring.

[high n mighty]

This is great tech people, good to see add hasn't found it yet. I will remember to search this if I ever have carby troubles on anything again, seems like very good info for any vehicle

[jabtronic]

Just wondering, you have connected the pvc valve back up, in your second pic. The valve out of the intake manifold. Also do youe self a favour and rotate the carb 180 deg so the fuel bowl is at the back of the carb, stops floodin up hill. Check your linkages on the primary and secondary shafts and make sure they dont bind at all, and even add a throttle return spring.

Nothing is binding. The linkages all work smoothly.

The PVC valve yes it is connected. I only took it off for the photo.

I really need help with the vacuum lines as I'm sure they're not going to the right places.. surely someone here can me help before I go and hassle Sarge??

I noticed today there is another port on the left side (drivers) of my weber, it doesnt have a nipple thing on it, it's just a hole.

So I have two ports on the left side, and two on the right. (Keeping in mind my weber is not installed backwards) On of the ports on the right side is coming off that vacuum device thing hanging off the side of the weber.

And yeh I'll install it backwards later.. I just need to get the damn thing running properly first! It can't be good for my clutch with how it is running at the moment.

[jabtronic]

Here.. this should make it easier.. Somebody tell me where 1,2,3 and 4 need to be plugged into or blocked off.

Edit: Keep in mind I am now running the hoses differently.
Line 1 is going to nothing (but has vacuum)
Line 2 is now running to my distributor
Line 3 is running to some switch on radiator but I dont think it doesn anything anyway?
Line 4 I don't know

[JrZook]

Well number 1 is a vacumme port for the choke, which has been removed, so put a screw and o-ring in it to seal it off. Number 2 keep it on the dizzy. Plug 3 off and 4 probabily goes to your egr valve, so try blocking it off for starters. Tell me how ya go. Oh and make sure you block any loose tubes for now.

[jabtronic]

Ok I've hooked it all up properly and it is running better now.

The revs drop when I'm changing gears now, but when I'm idling and I tap the accelerator the revs still come down slowly, so I'm thinking that has something to do with the idle jets I'll have to have another look at them.


Also, I'm a bit confused about the secondary and if it is working properly?
Because the 'accelerator pump jet' only has a hole on the primary side, and not on the secondary. Is there supposed to be fuel getting pumped into the secondary or is it only some sort of extra air inlet??

[JrZook]

Also, I'm a bit confused about the secondary and if it is working properly?
Because the 'accelerator pump jet' only has a hole on the primary side, and not on the secondary. Is there supposed to be fuel getting pumped into the secondary or is it only some sort of extra air inlet??

This is all good. The accelerator pump jet only has one hole on the primary side because theb carb is a 'progressive' type meaning the primary opens before the secondary. There is no need for a second hole in the acelerator pump jet unless you synchronise the opening of both throats. So what jets have you run atm?

[built4thrashing]

good work on the vac hoses. like JrZook asked What jets do you have in it right now and also what airfilter and exhaust setup do ya have as it will effect how you jet it. Start with a 60 idle, 170 air and 140 main in the primary and a 50 idle, 175 air and a 140 main in the secondary. thats a good setup to start fine tuning it.

B4T

[ado250]

Hey Guys,

Great info on here! I was just wondering as to the price that I should be paying for jets and emulsion tudes?? I have just bought a weber 32/36 and was looking to tune it up. Where's the cheapest place to get these parts? Some on here say wreckers, but im not sure as to which ones and how readily available they are.

Also, has anyone come up with a setup they are very happy with? Im running 2 inch exhaust with extractors. I guess anything on here will be close enough so that I can fine tune.

Cheers!

[built4thrashing]

id start with a setup similar to what i posted in my last post and see how it goes. it will be heaps better with the extractors as it will breath better

[matt29]

will that set up work on a 1.6 8v built4thrashing ?

[JrZook]

will that set up work on a 1.6 8v built4thrashing ?

Should be good for a start. For the 1600 id hover round the 145-150 mains as a starting point with 170 airs.

The e-tubes are bout $20 new each, if ur in brizzy ProGas can get them for ya. The f50's will most likely be in the 32/36 as standard, im using a f6 in the secondary together with a 4.5 aux ventruri. Seems to bring it on strong.
Cheers Dan

[built4thrashing]

yeh same here dan. it seems to pull the secondary in alot harder than the 3.5 aux. i havent played with my carb for over 3 months and it needs a bit of a tune. is a bit hard to start after sitting for more than a week

[ado250]

Well, after reading these pages for a while and contemplating, I finally bought my weber 32/36. I have to say that after doing the conversion and running into the problems such as linkage and idle tuning etc, I felt a bit crap about it. After driving around for a while though :0

I still feel though that i can get alot more power out especially out of the top end. The weber I bought came off a 2 ltr nissan bluebird, and although I don't get the hesitation at 3000, it seems to just flatten out at top end in fifth (about 3700-4000Rpm). I think reducing my secondary main will help to zing it up a bit at the top????

Also was wondering if there was any way of improving spark - Say a performance coil or ignition upgrade?? Seems logical - More fuel/air needs more spark?

Cheers,

Ado250

[tuls]

i to have a webber tho i put on back to frount so if it does stall it down hill the one thing that i made sure of if the floats are set right and i put a fuel regulator just before the carby in so when i go on trails turn the regulator down minuzes stalling but if i had the money i'll go efi

[Arcadion]

Hi all,

I've been reading everyone's posts here in regards to tuning the webers but I haven't seen any definate answers so was wondering if someone could tell me the best setup for mine.

Spell it out for me in plain engrish, what jets, emulsion tubes etc etc do I need?

Currently I am running a Holley 180, which is close the the 32/36 dgav. It runs really well, except for some hesitation if you drop the foot at idle.

I also have a weber 32/36 dgav which i am going to install, and I only intend to do it once, so I want to do it right

My setup is this;

32/36 DGAV with choke (moving to toowoomba, it gets cold apparantley...)
1.3L G13BA
Extractors
2 inch cat back exhaust straight through to a 4" cannon (growl!)

I have just replaced most everything on the engine. Timing belt, rotor button, dizzy cap, leads, new performance plugs etc. Readjusted all the valve gaps and timing, So it's all good to go!

It's mainly a daily driver with plenty of highway driving involved, but I still want to take it in the dirt and play around.
I have an electric fuel pump with a regulator installed (but not wired up yet) and was going to mount the carb fuel bowl to firewall and make the bowl vent fix before going any further. Does it need to vent down into the primary throat? I have a fuel overflow return line on my tank from the mechanical pump, when i wire up the electric one can i use this return the excess fuel to the tank?

[built4thrashing]

ok there are a few things you will need to do to the fuel bowl and float to get the best out of it in the ruff. vent pipe needs to be vented up out of the bowl and into the primary throat above the choke butterfly. also seal up the fuel bowl with putty next to the air corrector jets. This will stop fuel flooding the air jets on steep angles.

Float level is crutial on a good setup

When mounting on the manifold put the float bowl closest to the firewall so it will only stall on steep downhills. alot better than when going up hill. The adaptor ive used is a lynx manifold adaptor

part No#
KC112 Adaptor kit
5200 holleyDCD DGV Weber
to Nikki & Asian


Jetting Id set it up with

primary/ secondary

Idle 70/60
main 140/140
air 170/175
e-tubes F50/F6
aux venturies 3.5/4.5

a fuel pressure reg helps but is not esential.

now the biggest problem with a weber is the type of air cleaner you use. the 32/36 is designed to suck air strait down into the throats and any aircleaner that has a solid top on it thats too close will restrict air. the best ones to use are the ramflow type. or if you want to use the stock sierra box then find an adaptor like i got (found mine at a swap meet. ) and use a bit of intake hose off an eb falcon. you will have to have a body lift to do it like i have



will try to post pics later as right now my compression program has stopped working.

[Arcadion]

thanks for the jetting info, now i need to know, where can i get all that (in one place? i'm lazy) and about how much do you reckon it'll cost?

I've got the diagram on how to correct the float bowl vent, and i intend to use my tank return line to vent the excess fuel down there. That should pretty much stop the stalling altogether right? if no excess fuel is running down into the carb, it should run right at all (non excessive) angles?

I have a standard little rectangular airbox for this carby at the moment (the holley had a 9" round style and ran great) But i'll be making a snorkel for the car soon and intend to change the air intake.

I have made up a plenum with an inverted dome at the top (like K&N make for the performance holleys) to better direct the air down the guts of the carbie.

From the plenum, it connects to an inline cannister that has a pod style filter inside (drift just released them for cold air induction kits) which then exits the side of the engine bay on the drivers side, and straight into the snorkel.

Once i finish the snorkel, what i hope i have accomplished, is a non-restrictive air intake that has great offroad potential, but doesn't harm the economy of the vehicle. Most of the snorkels I've seen go through so many bends to get to the stock airbox, and then into the carb and by the time they get there, you have lost the velocity from the incoming air.

Does this setup sound ok, or has someone come up with something better?

[built4thrashing]

from what ive learnt the stalling issue is not from excessive fuel but from fuel flooding the air jets on angles. thats why you need to seal the bowl next to the air jets (seal it up where the bowl is shaped around the air jets) and then re vent it . Some webers had a supply and a return fuel lines so if ya connect the return line to the stock return line that should work fine.

Still trying to get program to work to shrink the pics down so i can post them

[ado250]

Built4thrashin,

Are you saying that if you hook the return line up you don't have to vent the bowl? I think ive just misunderstood though.

Also, Would anyone have any idea where I could get a stage two cam for my 1.3 G13A?

I'm also looking to replace the stock ignition system with a performance type, since I have the webber and am planning on porting the head ++ a performance cam, I'd tend to think that a better spark will make for more power.

Im also tending towards leaving the 2 litre setup on my carb as is. Porting will create larger air flow and more fuel is then needed so bigger jets. I dont want to rejet and then come back!

[built4thrashing]

if ya leave the jetting the same as for an escort 2ltr then ya will have a few probs. Webbers are actually set richer for the 1.3sierra than the ford 2ltr.

you will still have to vent the fuel bowl so it doesnt pressurize and force fuel out the jets.

[built4thrashing]

pics now added to previous post

[ado250]

RICHER??!!!

But it was mounted on a 2 litre nissan bluebird, would that make a difference? So what you are saying is that I should look to make the jets bigger not smaller for added power?

Anyway, I think the general rule of thumb is that only testing can reveal what is going on inside the cylinder, the rest is just guessing.

Has anyone installed a performance stage two cam?? Or even porting of the head and polishing the intake manifold?? these are the next mods im looking to install!

[JrZook]

RICHER??!!!

But it was mounted on a 2 litre nissan bluebird, would that make a difference? So what you are saying is that I should look to make the jets bigger not smaller for added power?

Anyway, I think the general rule of thumb is that only testing can reveal what is going on inside the cylinder, the rest is just guessing.

!

So do you know what jets the carb has in it from a bluebird? Think wat b4t is saying is the std jets from a carb off a escort or wat ever are generally bigger than wat we run on the 1.3 thus it will run richer. Even with all those mods u plan or have done use the 135-140 main jets as a starting point. At least its garentee'd to run with those jets.

Arcadion- You say ur moving down brizzy way??? There's a place called Progas on stanley street, this is where ive been geting my parts from, Also another top bloke down that way is Rob from carb-tech at kippa-ring. Give these blokes a call and they should be able to help you.

Cheers Dan

[built4thrashing]

or ya could just do what i did and go top a pick-a-part style wrecker and search through the wrecks to find other cars that have webers.

look at pugs and reno's as well as escorts, cortinas and XE-F falcons.

[ado250]

So basically, all you have to do is drill a little hole above the float chambe, rig up a little vent pipe to the primary intake, and then either solder up or putty the gaps near the air correctors so you don't get the flooding on inclines?

Seems like an easy mod to do. I can't exactly pick out where you have placed the putty on the carb? Although I reckon it will be obvious to spot once the top is off.