hi all. could someone please let me know how to stop my 97 quad 3.5 from flogging out harmonic ballancers. at 500 a pop it's getting past a joke...
great site ppl...
nuttz
Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
harmonic bal. prob 97 gls
Moderator: -Scott-
the harm. balancer is a flat faced surface, no key to the crank. it has a hole for a roll pin which i replaced with the last balencer. they are held in with a h/t bolt and flat washer. both replaced last time. suposed to be lock tighted in, done that. still sheered off the roll pin and spun ballancer off.
now have BIG spring washer as well as lock tight and still spins off...
the rubber stays intact but you do loose power steer, alt and fan drive as belts stop spinning. have heard it's very comon in the 3.5s....
now have BIG spring washer as well as lock tight and still spins off...
the rubber stays intact but you do loose power steer, alt and fan drive as belts stop spinning. have heard it's very comon in the 3.5s....
Yep, sounds like crank end is farked to me.
I assume you are using genuine Mitsu balancer. After market (if even available) size tolerances may be slighty too large to fit tight on the end of the crank.
Try Loctite "Shaft Fit Retaining Compound" on the end of the crank and inside the balancer, before you assemble it. It should fill any minute gaps/clearances and make a nice tight fit, but is still removable with a puller. The reason it's shearing the pin is it's not "grabbing" the end of the crank properly and putting all the rotational load on the pin. The retaining compound will help the balancer "grab" the crank end. Also, when you use it, just to be safe, don't start the car for a full 24 hours after fitting. This will allow the loctite to fully cure. If you were to start it, and the balancer shift, even a mm, while half cured, it will ruin the bond and you've wasted you time.
Probably cost about $20-30 a tube but beats paying another $500 if it works.
http://www.loctite.com.au/int_henkel/lo ... ompound%00
I assume you are using genuine Mitsu balancer. After market (if even available) size tolerances may be slighty too large to fit tight on the end of the crank.
Try Loctite "Shaft Fit Retaining Compound" on the end of the crank and inside the balancer, before you assemble it. It should fill any minute gaps/clearances and make a nice tight fit, but is still removable with a puller. The reason it's shearing the pin is it's not "grabbing" the end of the crank properly and putting all the rotational load on the pin. The retaining compound will help the balancer "grab" the crank end. Also, when you use it, just to be safe, don't start the car for a full 24 hours after fitting. This will allow the loctite to fully cure. If you were to start it, and the balancer shift, even a mm, while half cured, it will ruin the bond and you've wasted you time.
Probably cost about $20-30 a tube but beats paying another $500 if it works.
http://www.loctite.com.au/int_henkel/lo ... ompound%00
KRiS
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest