Revolver shackles

[Nevyn]

I am looking for an inexpensive way of creating suspension travel on leaf suspension.

I have not had to worry about height but a little extra wouldn't go astray. It never carries much weight so that's not an issue. It's all about the back pocket.

What is everyones opinion of these? does anyone know what it would be worth for the old Patrol? (1981 SWB)

[Hoonz]

to make them work properly u gotta spend the $$$
taking out leaves ... adding them ... custom leaf pack ...
then + torque bar to stop ur leafs turning into an S shape etc

[Nevyn]

I knew someone was going to say that. just don't have the $$$ to spend, or more specifically to other things that take prioity over my toy.

Is there anything that would at least increase the travel? even if it doesn't make it anything fantastic?

Oh and what is $$$ are we talking a couple of hundred or a couple of Thou ??

[ISUZUROVER]

You don't necessarily have to spend big $$$ if you have skills to do some/all of the work yourself and of course time.

I trandformed the suspension on my leaf sprund 4x4 from under 6" of wheel travel per axle to about 15", and it cost under $500 for everything all up (would have only been $200 if my front springs hadn't been shot).

What vehicle do you have, what is fitted at the moment and where are you?

[-Mick-]

had 2 different types and they were both junk that was just the shackles and some longer shocks no other mods.

Been out a few times with some of the superior engineering trucks running the full setup though and must say they seemed pretty good. You are however talking about thousands of dollars for all the mods to make it work properly. For that price you're nearly talking coils from a shop Which we all know are way cooler

Or spend the thousands on lockers which would get you even further than a bit of travel and open diffs

Best place for you to start is the search function this has been discussed many many many times before

[bad_religion_au]

I knew someone was going to say that. just don't have the $$$ to spend, or more specifically to other things that take prioity over my toy.

Is there anything that would at least increase the travel? even if it doesn't make it anything fantastic?

Oh and what is $$$ are we talking a couple of hundred or a couple of Thou ??

optimise your shackle length to suit the length of your springs, pull a couple of leafs out the pack, open up the retaining clamps on the spring packs, make sure you've got flogged out rubber bushings in there not poly, and make sure your shocks aren't limiting travel. remove the bumpstops and trim any body that the tire hits. (last 2 are optional )

cheap travel

[Nevyn]

You don't necessarily have to spend big $$$ if you have skills to do some/all of the work yourself and of course time.

I trandformed the suspension on my leaf sprund 4x4 from under 6" of wheel travel per axle to about 15", and it cost under $500 for everything all up (would have only been $200 if my front springs hadn't been shot).

What vehicle do you have, what is fitted at the moment and where are you?

Have time as it's only used for offroad therefore it can be out of action for a while and I can do it bit by bit.

What I don't have is the knowhow. Have no probs pulling apart and putting it back together etc, Can weld but only arc and would like to rest a car on it, have enough tools to play a fair bit. However I need someone to tell me what to buy and how it works.

Am Driving an '81 SWB Patrol. The leaf springs front and back that are on there seem fine if maybe a bit inflexable as they are a bit old.

And I am in Crestmead on the southside of Brissy. Why's that, offering to help ?? I pay in Beer !!

Seriously though, this is my toy that I bought to play with and more important, learn.

[Nevyn]

optimise your shackle length to suit the length of your springs, pull a couple of leafs out the pack, open up the retaining clamps on the spring packs, make sure you've got flogged out rubber bushings in there not poly, and make sure your shocks aren't limiting travel. remove the bumpstops and trim any body that the tire hits. (last 2 are optional )

cheap travel

Yep that's what I am talking about when I say "knowhow" and "learn"

I have very little idea what you just told me to do. More specifically how the hell do I do all that and I am talking specifics. Do I need any specific tools to do it?

The Cheap bit sounds good though.

[Hoonz]

make some 2" extended shackles outta 10mm plate
take some leafs out of the packs front and rear

even to a reverse shackle on the front ... .
trim the guards right out .. body lift .. some decent tyres

[ISUZUROVER]

Here is what I did with my setup, it is a land rover but the principles are the same.

http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... hp?t=37883

I am no expert on MQs, but I think they have springs that are far too stiff from the factory - and they have sway bars as well???

Basically what you want to do is
(1) find some uneven ground and see how much travel you have (measure the difference between the hub-guard on eather side of each axle)
(2) if you have sway bars, disconnect them and see if it makes a difference.
(3) also check that the shocks are not limiting your travel (e.g. unbolt them or measure their extended length when you are checking travel to see they aren't fully extended).

Once you have done all that, and seen how much you are getting at the moment, and confirmed that your springs are limiting travel - then I would go and talk to a spring works about your options. In most cases you can remove a leaf (or a few) and get them reset. This may or may not be the cheapest option depending on what aftermarket springs cost (but many aftermarket springs will be too stiff and or crap quality).

Humphrey on here owns a spring works at toowoomba, so would be good to talk to about your options - especially since he is also a 4x4er so knows what you are after. I have used bayside springs for all my resetting work, and am happy with them, but others have had mixed results. If you tell them exactly what you want and give them enough info then I think you will end up with a good result though.

[bad_religion_au]

optimise your shackle length to suit the length of your springs, pull a couple of leafs out the pack, open up the retaining clamps on the spring packs, make sure you've got flogged out rubber bushings in there not poly, and make sure your shocks aren't limiting travel. remove the bumpstops and trim any body that the tire hits. (last 2 are optional )

cheap travel

Yep that's what I am talking about when I say "knowhow" and "learn"

I have very little idea what you just told me to do. More specifically how the hell do I do all that and I am talking specifics. Do I need any specific tools to do it?

The Cheap bit sounds good though.

ok follow izuzurovers advice on measuring flex for before and after measurements, and definately disconnect the sway bars if you have them (if you don't know what they look like they'll pretty much be the thing that's attached to the axle housing other than the driveshaft, the leaf springs and the brakeline and diff breather hose.

to remove leafs, get a couple of new spring pins, pull off your springs, cut the old pins off, take out any thick flat leafs at the bottom, plus take one or two of the arched leafs out (try bottom and 3rd from bottom). you'll lose about 1/2 an inch of height per leaf you pull out, but will gain flex. if you lose too much height, take them to a blacksmith and get them reset back to the height you had. if you go taller than you had, they'll make a longer main leaf for you... if your planning on going taller, don't make your shackles up till you get the measurement of your new main leaf

now optimal shackle length

measure your springs bushing to bushing when their flat (use a piece of rope to follow the arc and measure it if it's too hard to flatten them).

now measure the distance between the shackle hanger on the frame and he spring hanger on the frame.

now add 30mm (that's a rought figure, but should be close enough) to the length you got for your springs

now subtract the length you measured between the chassis hangers.

that is your optimal shackle length, pin to pin.

get some 10mm strap, get a couple of shackle pins that fit your spring bushings, drill the strap to take the pins. obviously drill the holes so that the distance between the center of both holes is the same length you got for your optimal shackle length.

so tools for that job = drill and drill bits.
something to cut your strap.
tape measure.
tools to do your shackle pins back up.

spring pack clamps.

if you look closely at your springs, there will be a couple of clamps going around your springs... not the U bolts that hold the axle on but you'll see them, probably 3 or 4 per spring pack. they have an opening at the top. get a chisel in there and pry them open so the springs can freely come apart. if your concerned about road driving (i've never noticed a difference) drill a hole through the bits that are now poking up, put a bolt in it, and take the bolt out for offroad use

now put it all back together with rubber bushings, without shocks. follow izuzurovers technique (can use a forklift if you have access) to flex it up, to measure for shocks... measure the distance between the top and bottom mounting points on the side with the tire right up in the guard on the front and back. this is the closed measurements. you need a shock thats smaller than this when fully compressed (your front and back measurements will be different most likely). now do the same for the side that has the wheel hanging. this is your extended side. you need shocks that are longer than that distance when fully opened (most shock manufacturers have these measurements). go shock shopping

if for some reason you can't get a shock that is too long when fully compressed, you then need to look at how you might go about extending your shock mounts.

have fun.

if you do this without the reset, your just up for some strap, some shackle pins, and some spring pins, some rubber spring bushings and shocks. the reset'll add a couple of 100 onto the cost.

take the measurements. remember you'll lose about an inch of height when you pull the leafs, but you'll gain height if the shackles need to be longer. if your shackles are 1 inch longer, you'll gain 1/2 an inch of height. if their 2 inches longer, you gain 1 inch in height. so half the difference in shackle length is the height you'll gain. do the calcs and work out if you need the reset, or can live without.

oh and if you get massive amounts of flex, your brake lines might get pulled a bit tight, and it'd be worth looking into longer ones... but again, it probably won't happen.

but remember, swaybars are the enemy of flex bytheir very design.

and old flogged out springs are the best for flex.

oh and i take no responsibility if any of the above mods contravine local laws

[NZ4x4]

I've got Superior Engineering drop shackles fitted on my truck (just been fitted) that was easy, getting shocks the right length to fit is hard (where to put the mounts) and then brake lines have to be extended, drive shafts checked for length (havent done this yet so not sure if they are too short) etc. the bill for my truck is going to come in at over $3000 when it is done. and i couldnt do it my self as it needs to be done by a certified welder.

it is an expensive procedure