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Heart transplant - Chev 350 into SWB MQ

Tech Talk for Nissan owners.

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Posts: 1032
Joined: Mon Mar 17, 2003 10:14 am
Location: Newcastle, NSW

Heart transplant - Chev 350 into SWB MQ

Post by Heathx4 »

As some of you may have heard, I've come into posession of a Chev 350 mated to a 4 speed manual in a LWB MQ. It's rightful location is of course, in the engine bay of my shorty. I keen to bung the sucker in, but now I'm weighing up a few alternatives and thought I'd take the time to do it right. Let me run a few things by you:

1. I'd really like to go 5 speed, NA diesel g/box, for its lower 1st gear and to a lesser extent, its 5th gear. Unfortunately I don't have one of these, and they seem a bit hard (and $$$) to come by. Is it worth tracking one of these down, and how much does it add to the work involved? Yes, I've searched and read the bible, and know about various alternatives (standard g'box mounts, motor forward or gbox back, standard motor mounts) but haven't found anyone doing exactly the same as me.

2. It's on petty at the moment. I'd like to go gas, primarily to stop it stalling on slopes and secondly for $$$. Now that other LPG prices thread has got me thinking - is it really worth all the hassle and cost of a LPG install? The car really doesn't do too many k's. It's not a daily driver, but it still gets driven on the road occasionally. I currently get about 20k/100L of premium with the L28.

3. The original plan was to do an overhaul. But now I'm not sure that's worth it! Fumes come out of one of the rocker covers, but that's probably just because it doesn't have a cap on it! Little puff of grey smoke when it starts, then a steady, very light amount of smoke when it's running. Other than that seems old and kinda ugly, but quite smooth. There is a loud whine when driving, but I don't know where that's from. Is an overhaul a good idea? What $$$ am I looking at? Best to do it in the LWB, out of the car, or in the SWB?

Currently the Chev sits quite close to the firewall (no body lift). The 4 speed gearbox and transfer look factory, but the dash voltmeter reads 12V-30V, making me think it was a 24V diesel at some stage.
* Nothing is foolproof to a sufficiently talented fool *
Posts: 147
Joined: Wed Aug 18, 2004 10:25 pm
Location: Forest lake QLD

Post by kc_ksom »

G'day Heath

Sounds like a good score, Of course you should sit it in your SWB without any hesitation....

1:
I would put a T700 behind my engine, I think it would suit a SWB better, 350 with the 4 speed will give you the shits big time at 100 kms on the hwy. Your revs will be sitting at around 31 to 3200 RPM, Now that sucks JUICE like no tomorrow. So I went to a 35in tyre and knock the diff ratio back to 4.3, would of gone to 4.1, but I cant find any... So if you do that, and you want it for 4x4, you may need to put up with the 4.6 ratio for wheeling...
The 5 speed may be a little cheaper option, either way, ITS A BIG JOB!!!!

2
GO LPG, the cost is minimal, just get one 2nd hand. There are heaps of kits around.
I would hate to be paying for 80ltrs of Premium unleaded evry 2 - 400ks
Depending on how you drive.
My 350 on LPG is now MY daily driver, as it cost 1/2 as much running in that then it does driving a 2000 xr6. So very economical..
Recomend LPG, love the stuff!!!!!

3
The smoke coming out of your covers is called Blow by, You will get that on every motor, only its the amount that differs, sounds like your OIL rings are shot, smoke on start up is from your valve steam oil seals, I would most likely say you will need the heads reconditioned. Also if you are going to run LPG or premium unleaded without LUBE, they will need to have hardend valve seats.
Cost will determine on what you want to spend, You can get a full REBUILD kit for a 350 for around $660, this includes pistons, the block will require to be reboard so allow $500 for machine work, heads will cost around $500 to $800, or new heads for around $1200 - to what ever your buget wants...
Cam and lifters for about $220 $250.
Someone to screw it together cost about $300

Or get one of the long motors out of Parts Peddler mag for around $1700 with 3 months warrenty.

Or

Hope a rering kit fixes it, for around $180, new cam and lift pack, $220, and just re lapp the heads with lapping paste, give it a good hone, and hope for the best, less than $500....
and do it yourself!!!!

So I would say, BUY a brand new engine off ebay for $2800 and get warrenty....

My 2 bobs
Casey
Posts: 2056
Joined: Tue Mar 23, 2004 6:17 pm
Location: Melbourne

Post by Big Red Toy »

i'll take some photo's soon for ya ;)

Go the CHEV :armsup: :armsup: :armsup:
Gas research is cool too :D
Style Side Maverick Ute
4.2 Turbo Diesel
35" Simex
4" Procomp suspension
2" Bodylift
Fibreglass Stuff....
Now highmount & Plasma :d
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