Driving on sand?

Post by **RockyF75** » Tue Feb 28, 2006 4:53 pm

Does anyone have overheating probs when driving on sand (rocky)... few months back went on and for the 1st time and it would get right up near the scary blow up engine line after only 5-10mins in soft sand. This was @ 15psi, Desert Dueler A/T's... i'm driving on the beach soon, but for a longer time, and am a little paranoid. Now last time my headgasket had a leak and you could see a bit of exhaust puffing out of the front of the head(?), have since had this fixed, would the head gasket be the main reason it got so hot so quick???

Post by **HotFourOk** » Tue Feb 28, 2006 6:05 pm

Is that meant to be driving on rocky sand, or driving on sand in a rocky

What sorta revs are you doing when on the sand, and is it in hi/lo range?

Probably all them lights blocking the air flow F70

Have you had overheating problems at all since you've had it fixed up?? or is this the only time it does it?

Have you had a tune up recently done? Due to revving high when on the beach any problems with fuel mixture will be exaggerated.. Eg running too rich.

Post by **RockyF75** » Tue Feb 28, 2006 9:02 pm

Yeah, i was driving on rocky sand, in my F70 Deisel Feroza, and then i went onto watery bitumen and got bogged

Nah, was soft sand, AS I MENTIONED, was revving quite hard 2500-3000 just to keep momentum, mostly in 2/3 Low... tried sum in 4H but it was gutless. The only other time i've had overheating was on the freeway heading home, didnt like reving out at 110kph, got hot, so slowed down to 90-95 for a bit and cooled down again... i'm hoping it was just the head gasket

Its still gets hottish on the M2, doing 100, but doesnt get right up, only 3/4 of the way which I think

is normal??

Post by **HotFourOk** » Wed Mar 01, 2006 7:54 am

Mine doesn't move over a half... it has never fluctuated.. whether hard 4x4ing, highway use or normal driving.

I'd go get it checked out F70.. it shouldn't move like that... You should check your coolant and thermostat (cheapest things).. and then get a tune up or get a check why its happening.

Was the headgasket fully replaced? I'd go back to wherever did that

Post by **crazymanwithavan** » Wed Mar 01, 2006 8:20 am

Hi RockyF70,
I have the same deal,
it doesn't matter if it's highway or sand or mud, if I keep my revs at 3-4thousand for say 5-6 minutes, it'll overheat.
Worse when at lower speeds.
I've checked the themostat and coolant level. I Haven't checked between the aircon radiator and main radiator, so could have stuff in between it.

When I'm not so busy, I might pull the radiator out and flush it out completely
Maybe blocked inside.

My motor is the 2L-T

Post by **-Mick-** » Wed Mar 01, 2006 12:08 pm

I had the exact same prob lately in my 4runner... just the same as you describe.

Turned out to be a lazy clutch pack in the engine fan and a half shagged radiator (corrosion). About $400 to fix

Post by **BundyRumandCoke** » Wed Mar 01, 2006 12:48 pm

Try driving on the harder sand at less than 3/4 tide. Things will improve markedly. For soft sand, deflate your tyres and keep the momentum up. Anyvehicle will get hot if driven long enough in soft sand. Makes your motor labour very hard.

Post by **Mudsierra** » Wed Mar 01, 2006 7:49 pm

yeah, driving on soft sand can heat the motor more than average.
If u don't let the air out for beach driving, can cause ur car to 'drink' a lot more.. last time i went beach driving, i didn't bother letting the air out, went on the sand and in an hour time, used up nearly 2/5th of a tank ..

.. also motor got fairly hot.. yeah in low range and front locked

Post by **RockyF75** » Wed Mar 01, 2006 9:09 pm

Hot4- Your TD and intercolloer might help

, and the headgasket was all done + shaved, and i havent been back on sand since so dont know if it will do it again, hence, why i am a little worried/curious about my upcomming trip

Thanks for all the replys... i think i'll flush the rad out in the next few weeks. According to NRMA its ok and normal for engines to run @ around 3/4 - 4/5ths of the way up

so I was curious as to what others with the same 4b run at.

Do different coolants make a noticable difference?? I usually just use the cheap $4 premixed stuff from supercheap, are the more pricy ones worth it?

Post by **dai-hard** » Thu Mar 02, 2006 2:51 pm

ive got a f70 (no turbo yet) never had over heat problems . can hold it full throttle all day. been to stockon beach and kurrnell alls cool . have got mud terrains and they struggle in soft sand. if your fuel screw on the injector pump is set to rich it can get hot.

Post by **rOd** » Thu Mar 02, 2006 3:32 pm

RockyF70 wrote:Do different coolants make a noticable difference?? I usually just use the cheap $4 premixed stuff from supercheap, are the more pricy ones worth it?

Basically, a coolant with a higher level of Glycol is better.

That $4 job is probably nothing more than water with a green dye.

Post by **flynn** » Thu Mar 02, 2006 5:10 pm

i got a td rocky and as soon as i go to about 90 it'l heat up
may have something to do with the thermo

but now that its gettin colder i can fly a long at a 100 for a while without anyprobs it heats up after about 5-10mins tho

i was told rockys can run hot so i thought id test that theory out by drivin out to crusier park getting the radiator clogged with mud (on purpose

)

for a weekend and drivin home (roughly an hour) and drivin around for the rest of the week, the engine temp would sit at about 3/4s and then wen id give it a bit of a push it (like ova 70 and goin up a big hill) wld get in to the black zone

ps all this was before i put the thermo in

Post by **HotFourOk** » Thu Mar 02, 2006 5:34 pm

Yeh the TD makes the motor work a bit easier in the tough stuff

A better grade of coolant really only aids in increasing the boiling point/lowering the freezing point of the fluid and providing anti-corrosove properties.
Pure water provides the best rate of heat transfer... Glycol aids in critical temperatures etc

I think you should flush your cooling system with like a wynns product and fill up with a better grade of coolant.. Even take your rad to an expert to get checked out.. some problems arn't even visible to the untrained eye.

I have also been told that 3/4 is ok for the temp gauge to sit at... as long as it doesn't go into the red

But being so high up already theres not too much margin for error is there

Website · Post by **murcod** » Thu Mar 02, 2006 6:09 pm

rOd wrote:
RockyF70 wrote:Do different coolants make a noticable difference?? I usually just use the cheap $4 premixed stuff from supercheap, are the more pricy ones worth it?
Basically, a coolant with a higher level of Glycol is better.

That $4 job is probably nothing more than water with a green dye.

For heat transfer and cooling properties pure water is better. The more glycol in the mix the less effective it will be at transfering heat from the block to the radiator.

Glycol and the like is needed for corrosion protection, anti freeze properties, lubrication for the pump seals and to prevent localised hot spots. You could try something like Redline Water Wetter.

Post by **HotFourOk** » Thu Mar 02, 2006 8:46 pm

HotFourOk wrote:
A better grade of coolant really only aids in increasing the boiling point/lowering the freezing point of the fluid and providing anti-corrosove properties.
Pure water provides the best rate of heat transfer... Glycol aids in critical temperatures etc

lol.. it was like dejavue when I red your post after mine murcod.. lol

Post by **RockyF75** » Wed Mar 08, 2006 5:25 pm

Well I pony'd up the dough, and spent ~500% more on coolant today

got Nulon concentrated long life. Gotta mix it with Demin water. So does anyone know the capacity of a 84 Rocky cooling system

The bottle only has it for the ricers, and *cogh*terios*cough*, which is 5.4L, would that be about same as a Rocky?

I was going to just get castrol anti-corrosion and demin water, but the supercheap guy who suprisingly sounded like he knew something about cars, when I told him my situation, reccomended something with the Glycol. And the back of the bottle on the Nulon says it raises the boiling point to 132oc

Flushing the system out on sunday and will see if it makes a difference.

Post by **HotFourOk** » Wed Mar 08, 2006 6:35 pm

http://www.daihatsu-drivers.co.uk/node/89

This page says 10L for a diesel rocky... pretty large.. I cant remember how much fluid I put into mine

Hopefully your coolant may have been reaching boiling point before and that is why you had overheating issues... with the boiling temp now at 132deg you might solve some problems

Goodluck man[/url]

Post by **RockyF75** » Wed Mar 08, 2006 6:52 pm

Thanks for the link, but that has raised ANOTHER question

, the specs say to use 10W/40 engine oil, so are these statements true: I'm running 20W/60, which is thicker(?), which is good cause its an old engine(?)

And i have 2530 of wheelbase

Website · Post by **murcod** » Wed Mar 08, 2006 8:00 pm

Hmmm..... It says the same for the Feroza too. I run 5W50 synthetic.

It also specifies 95RON fuel?!

Post by **HotFourOk** » Wed Mar 08, 2006 11:57 pm

I run 15/40.. but mine is a high performance engine

haha

Yeah, being an older motor F70 you can afford to run a bit thicker oil.. and also being in AUS where our temps are generally hotter than pommyland a bit thicker oil does no harm.

Murcod - Aus Feroza's may have been detuned a little to run on our standard 91ron ULP compared to the UK or Jap ones.
A lot of cars in Japan are designed to run on up to 102ron fuel as they have it at the bowser over there... but when they import into AUS they sometimes have to detune for us to be able to use our pump fuel.

You should be running PULP anyways

I have more track width

Post by **Rb25sil80** » Thu Mar 09, 2006 12:05 am

5/50 synthetic? Are you guys nuts !

Its not a bloody high boost/revving turbo monster! 15w40 valvoline all the way over here!

I had a really good site on oils and what the numbers mean, basically says you want an oil with as little variation as possible, ie 10w30= good 5w50=bad

Ill dig up the link tomorrow, gotta be up in 4 hours

Post by **SimplyPV** » Thu Mar 09, 2006 2:28 pm

yep, ran on 10-30 for years. never had any problems. (til that damn engine mount broke

)

Post by **HotFourOk** » Thu Mar 09, 2006 3:55 pm

Rb25sil80 wrote:5/50 synthetic? Are you guys nuts !

Its not a bloody high boost/revving turbo monster!

50w is actually thicker than a 30w oil.. in a high boost, revving motor I would not be running 50w.. I'd have something lighter and less restrictive
I beleive 10w/30 is a little thin for an older motor.. I'd recommend 30w oil for new engines or engines with lots of technology such as DOHC and multivalves.
The first number is only useful on startup.. after that the oil is virtually monograde... with 30w being much lighter than a 50w oil.
With a motor being older, 50w is common to be used as the motors tolerances are not as precise as they once were.
One of the most common oils is 20w/50... used in so many cars its not funny... they arn't all high revving monsters either.

Website · Post by **murcod** » Thu Mar 09, 2006 6:19 pm

A few points- the first number is the oil viscosity (thickness) when cold, the second is the viscosity when hot. Most new cars use 5W30 type oils- they help reduce fuel consumption due to the oil being thinner when warm. These engines are also designed to run on a thinner oil. Older vehciels (ie the Feroza vintage) usually specify something like 20W50. The rating specified will also vary with the temperatures the vehicle is operated in. So, those ratings on that UK site are quite likely too low for an Aussie Feroza.

20W50 and 5W50 have stuff all difference between them when hot; but when cold the 5W50 oil will flow better and provide better protection at start up.

Each to their own when it comes to choosing what type of oil (synthetic, mineral etc.)

*** In fact if you consult page 15-2 of the Feroza Owner's Manual it specifies anything from 5W30 to 20W50- so by running 5W50 I've actually got all bases covered!

Post by **Mudsierra** » Thu Mar 09, 2006 6:40 pm

murcod, u sure know ur stuffs

Post by **Rb25sil80** » Thu Mar 09, 2006 10:10 pm

http://bobistheoilguy.com/oilshear.htm

Have a read of that and draw your own conclusions, synthetic is purely a wank factor in my opinion and a big waste of money. Cant believe I used to cough up for Mobil 1 when it was 50 bucks a bottle, let along the $70 odd they're trying to charge for the shit now.

Website · Post by **murcod** » Fri Mar 10, 2006 12:09 pm

As I said earlier- each to their own.

I've owned a few high boost turbo engines and am quite happy paying the extra.

Post by **bullwinkle** » Fri Mar 10, 2006 12:39 pm

Oil cooler worked well on the MK TD patrol we have am going to try one on my F75 rocky. Cost about $70 for an air cooled one.
Just a thought......

Post by **RockyF75** » Mon Mar 13, 2006 4:59 pm

bullwinkle wrote:Oil cooler worked well on the MK TD patrol we have am going to try one on my F75 rocky. Cost about $70 for an air cooled one.
Just a thought......

Oil cooler tacked onto cooling system?

I went for just a short drive today with the 'good' stuff, and it gets hot heaps quiker now

... but if I understand the situation correctly, the temp guage will be, in effect, not accurate, as the boiling point is now 132deg, so if the guage goes right up, it wont nessesarily mean its overheating

So now, how do I know when I need to pull up and give the engine a rest

I'm thinking I should have stuck with water and an anti-corrosion mix, no glycol.

Post by **Patchy** » Mon Mar 13, 2006 8:29 pm

RockyF70 wrote:
bullwinkle wrote:Oil cooler worked well on the MK TD patrol we have am going to try one on my F75 rocky. Cost about $70 for an air cooled one.
Just a thought......
Oil cooler tacked onto cooling system?

I went for just a short drive today with the 'good' stuff, and it gets hot heaps quiker now ... but if I understand the situation correctly, the temp guage will be, in effect, not accurate, as the boiling point is now 132deg, so if the guage goes right up, it wont nessesarily mean its overheating

So now, how do I know when I need to pull up and give the engine a rest I'm thinking I should have stuck with water and an anti-corrosion mix, no glycol.

chances are if your temp guage says its hot, it means its hot. if your engine blew a head gasket not long ago and you had the work done its usually a good idea to look at the entire cooling system. ie send your radiator out to be flush profesionally, replace the thermostat and have a good look at your w/pump. to me it just sounds like a cooling prob, your blown head gasket would have been the result of the prob and not the cause. a blown head gasket will result in: a coolant leak, loss of combustion and/or oil/coolant transfer, usally not cause it to over heat...
just my 2 cents but prob just something you already knew

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