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Yet another 3.0 TD Hilux bites the dust

General Tech Talk

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Post by bogged »

stuartcarr2002 wrote:GO THE ZD30 :lol:
GOLD!
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Post by ISUZUROVER »

love_mud wrote:
ISUZUROVER wrote:
NJ SWB wrote:
Hales231271 wrote:The new hilux D4D is a very highly strung motor.
Variable turbo common rail etc.
Had dealings with them when I was in Thailand where they are made.
They have very good power and economy for what they are.
Thailand had the D4D motor back in 1995.(2.5L and 3.0L)
It always amazed me why Toyota Australia didn't push for these engines.
I think still now the Prado is still using the 1KZ-TE.
Now I guess I can see why it took so long for Australia to see these engines.
Mabey they are still not that flash.

Cheers
Dazza
Australia couldn't get these engines any earlier because our Diesel quality was too crap. It's getting better, but sulphur content is still above that of some other countries.

Scott
Sulphur helps lubricate the injector pump and injector components. All the ULSD (ultra low sulphur diesel) in europe has to have 5% biodiesel content (made from new rapeseed/canola oil) to increase the lubricity to an acceptable level.

In worldwide diesel testing a few years back, the US, Canada and Switzerland had the worst diesel lubricity. I don't think australian diesel is to bad by world standards.
I was of the understanding it had a"high particuate count" or some crap .. but then againg I have been know to get confused about things a bit lately
Isn't that what a fuel filters are for???

I know that many OZ refineries have problems removing waxes and water from the diesel.

In the really cold parts of europe people run up to 30% petrol in their diesels in winter so they can still start them. This goes for common rail engines as well.

But 250000 km is considered a long life for a small diesel in europe. All the cold starts are hard on an engine.
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Post by dumbdunce »

dirtyGQ wrote:is it fuel or are they running to lean with weak pistons like the nissan zd30. Lean diesels die very quickly especially if they have weak pistons.
er, no.

All diesel engines control engine speed and torque by varying the mixture of fuel and air. At idle and light throttle conditions they are very, very lean. In this lean condition, they run very cool. It is only at full throttle that they become rich, and when they are rich they get hot, and start melting pistons.

Many toyota diesel engine catastrophies (like big end bearing failures in 3L and 1HD-T motors) are directly attibutable to incorrect oil selection and/or extended service intervals. Like Roly, I'm interested to know who did the 10,000km service, AND what oil was used.
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Post by stuartcarr2002 »

bogged wrote:
stuartcarr2002 wrote:GO THE ZD30 :lol:
GOLD!
:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
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Post by kempster1 »

dumbdunce wrote:
dirtyGQ wrote:is it fuel or are they running to lean with weak pistons like the nissan zd30. Lean diesels die very quickly especially if they have weak pistons.
er, no.

All diesel engines control engine speed and torque by varying the mixture of fuel and air. At idle and light throttle conditions they are very, very lean. In this lean condition, they run very cool. It is only at full throttle that they become rich, and when they are rich they get hot, and start melting pistons.

Many toyota diesel engine catastrophies (like big end bearing failures in 3L and 1HD-T motors) are directly attibutable to incorrect oil selection and/or extended service intervals. Like Roly, I'm interested to know who did the 10,000km service, AND what oil was used.
Engines that are running lean run hot and rich engines run cold !!!!
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Post by Dzltec »

You had better do some research on diesel engines my friend. Your comment is totally wrong. True for a petrol but not diesel.



Engines that are running lean run hot and rich engines run cold !!!![/quote]
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Post by sparky »

Have a 2 month old Lux done about 7000kms.

Service intervals in the book say every 10,000km.
But the sticker on the window from the dealer says change oil at 5000?
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Post by wanna »

oils cheap compaired with rebuilding a engine by the best oil you can and change it often and do the filter at the same time i,ve found castrol to be the best for me
Dont be scared give it a go
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Post by wanna »

oils cheap compaired with rebuilding a engine by the best oil you can and change it often and do the filter at the same time i,ve found castrol to be the best for me
Dont be scared give it a go
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Post by kempster1 »

Dzltec wrote:You had better do some research on diesel engines my friend. Your comment is totally wrong. True for a petrol but not diesel.



Engines that are running lean run hot and rich engines run cold !!!!
[/quote]
I will stand corrected, I was mixed up with the duel fuel engines I use to work on where we used to lower the amount of diesel used in pilot fuel to lean a cylinder off.
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Post by roly »

sparky wrote:Have a 2 month old Lux done about 7000kms.

Service intervals in the book say every 10,000km.
But the sticker on the window from the dealer says change oil at 5000?
toyota's computer booking system had 1KZ flagged as 5000km changes.

they rang me for mine at 3 months and they had to be corrected that it is a 10,000km change on the D4D
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Post by dumbdunce »

roly wrote:
sparky wrote:Have a 2 month old Lux done about 7000kms.

Service intervals in the book say every 10,000km.
But the sticker on the window from the dealer says change oil at 5000?
toyota's computer booking system had 1KZ flagged as 5000km changes.

they rang me for mine at 3 months and they had to be corrected that it is a 10,000km change on the D4D
this is correct. 1KZ is indirect injected and dumps a lot of fuel and soot into the oil - the oil dilutes and gets thick with soot if isn't changed regularly. the D4D will handle 10,000km easily, and if you have a sample tested at 10,000km it should be possible to extend the oil change interval to 15,000, even 20,000km with top shelf oil.
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Post by roly »

dumbdunce wrote:
roly wrote:
sparky wrote:Have a 2 month old Lux done about 7000kms.

Service intervals in the book say every 10,000km.
But the sticker on the window from the dealer says change oil at 5000?
toyota's computer booking system had 1KZ flagged as 5000km changes.

they rang me for mine at 3 months and they had to be corrected that it is a 10,000km change on the D4D
this is correct. 1KZ is indirect injected and dumps a lot of fuel and soot into the oil - the oil dilutes and gets thick with soot if isn't changed regularly. the D4D will handle 10,000km easily, and if you have a sample tested at 10,000km it should be possible to extend the oil change interval to 15,000, even 20,000km with top shelf oil.

yeah

i should have typred 1KZ* as the new D4D has a 1KZxxx designation but different to the 1KZ-TE in the 120
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Post by dumbdunce »

roly wrote:
dumbdunce wrote:
roly wrote:
sparky wrote:Have a 2 month old Lux done about 7000kms.

Service intervals in the book say every 10,000km.
But the sticker on the window from the dealer says change oil at 5000?
toyota's computer booking system had 1KZ flagged as 5000km changes.

they rang me for mine at 3 months and they had to be corrected that it is a 10,000km change on the D4D
this is correct. 1KZ is indirect injected and dumps a lot of fuel and soot into the oil - the oil dilutes and gets thick with soot if isn't changed regularly. the D4D will handle 10,000km easily, and if you have a sample tested at 10,000km it should be possible to extend the oil change interval to 15,000, even 20,000km with top shelf oil.

yeah

i should have typred 1KZ* as the new D4D has a 1KZxxx designation but different to the 1KZ-TE in the 120
have another look, your D4D should be a 1KD-FTV - not a 1KZ. "Z" is toyota engine code for "indirect injection" - "D" typically indicates direct injection. They are both "K" family engines but are internally very different.
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Post by dirtyGQ »

so what would happen if you run a diesel too lean ? From what i have been informed a diesel needs lubrication from diesel thus meaning if i lean my car right out i will start burninbg out valves and pistons. Could someone please explain this to me in a human "diesel for dumbasses" explanation.
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Post by dumbdunce »

dirtyGQ wrote:so what would happen if you run a diesel too lean ? From what i have been informed a diesel needs lubrication from diesel thus meaning if i lean my car right out i will start burninbg out valves and pistons. Could someone please explain this to me in a human "diesel for dumbasses" explanation.
you can't run a diesel "too" lean - if you lean the fuel off, the engine slows down. if you lean it off some more, it stops. the valves are not lubricated/cooled by the fuel in the way a petrol engine valve is, as the fuel is injected directly into the combuistion chamber, not into the inlet port. it is by running a diesel engine RICH that melts pistons and burns valves - excess fuell slows the combustion process and results in the fuel burning too long, so it is still burning through the exhaust stroke and dumping a lot of heat into the head and exhaust valves, and the piston crown. In a diesel, putting your foot down on the go pedal = more fuel, lifting your foot off = less fuel. At idle and light throttle settings only a small % of the oxygen in the air is consumed by burning diesel.
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Post by Bad JuJu »

Got the work explode-o-lux back today, the reason it took so long apparently is because the replacement engine is a reissue - it has the same number as the buggered one. Toyota service department and Toyota Australia refuse to elaborate on the failure :?
It has always been serviced by Toyota every 5k.
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Post by rick130 »

Australia couldn't get these engines any earlier because our Diesel quality was too crap. It's getting better, but sulphur content is still above that of some other countries.
Oz diesel is now pretty much below 50ppm across the board and is of a very good quality.
The problem with the sulphur removal and lubricity is that the process removes a fair few of the aromatics in the fuel, and theses are what lubricate the pump and injectors. All the oil companies actually add lubrity to the fuel after refining to get it back to the (new) Oz spec (which supposedly mirrors Europe)
I just don't quite trust that they've got it right, and add a little fuel lubricant to almost every tankfull in all our diesels. At least it keeps the injectors clean on the missus Pootrol.

I'm finding the low sulphur fuel really helping the soot count in the oil in old stagers like the TD42T. It should be awsome in a common rail engine, but then they go and screw you over in all the new engines with bloody exhaust gas recirculation and load the oil up with soot again... :roll:
I'm guessing this is the reason for the centrifuge filter on the TD5.
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Post by 4x4Monkey »

Were are they driven
Is it heavy industrial use
or local stuff on the roads
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Post by hudson44 »

Sorry guys but all i can say is GO THE MITSUBISHI'S. Sounds like Nissan's and Toyota's sh!tting themselves everywhere!!
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Post by 4x4Monkey »

MITSUBISHI'S........... ahahahaha

would not touch a MITSUBISHI witha 10 foot pole
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Post by Guy »

hudson44 wrote:Sorry guys but all i can say is GO THE MITSUBISHI'S. Sounds like Nissan's and Toyota's sh!tting themselves everywhere!!
Great motor ... pity about the rest of the vehicle (especially if you intend to use it in the bush)
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Post by hudson44 »

Hey, i've been everywhere that a 75 series and a GQ have been and have broke nothing. (and we've done some pretty serious driving) Not saying that Nissans and Toyota's are bad just saying the Mitsy's are under-rated. Each to their own i guess!!
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