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factory vacum diff lock + turbo engines
factory vacum diff lock + turbo engines
Guys,
will the factory diff lock run on a turbo engine?
I have a suspicion it won't, as it relies on negative pressure (vacum) and not positive (boost)
if so, is there any way to rig it up so it will still have a vacum source?
(for a tb42 efi turbo - still in planning/researching stages)
TIA,
Brian.
will the factory diff lock run on a turbo engine?
I have a suspicion it won't, as it relies on negative pressure (vacum) and not positive (boost)
if so, is there any way to rig it up so it will still have a vacum source?
(for a tb42 efi turbo - still in planning/researching stages)
TIA,
Brian.
1988 351W GQ wagon
sorry mate, should of read your first post properly :p
i ran mine from the tree on the inlet manifold. mine is carby atm but i will be converting to efi. all you should need to do is get a T piece for a vacuum line on your intake manifold and plumb it up that way. i have to change 2 hoses over when i want to engage the diff lock. i tried using 2 taps, simply one off and the other on for unlock, then change the taps around so the one that was origanally closed is open and vice versa. the problem i had there was that the diaphragm in the diff needs to draw air back down the now closed line to allow it to move to the other position. what i ended up doing was removing one of the taps and then all i need to do is have one vac line disconnected and connect the other one for it to lock in, then swap them over to unlock it. its a bit of a pain atm cause it is all still under the bonnet but i will be running the vac lines into the cab on top of the dash somewhere so i dont have to get out to change it over.
i think its much better than paying $240 from nissan for the genuine solenoid to operate it by a switch, it's not like i have to do it that often.
if you want to have a look at what i've done at all, you could always come up to morayfield on a weekend and meet up with me and i'll show you. plus it would be much easier to explain it in person i think.
i ran mine from the tree on the inlet manifold. mine is carby atm but i will be converting to efi. all you should need to do is get a T piece for a vacuum line on your intake manifold and plumb it up that way. i have to change 2 hoses over when i want to engage the diff lock. i tried using 2 taps, simply one off and the other on for unlock, then change the taps around so the one that was origanally closed is open and vice versa. the problem i had there was that the diaphragm in the diff needs to draw air back down the now closed line to allow it to move to the other position. what i ended up doing was removing one of the taps and then all i need to do is have one vac line disconnected and connect the other one for it to lock in, then swap them over to unlock it. its a bit of a pain atm cause it is all still under the bonnet but i will be running the vac lines into the cab on top of the dash somewhere so i dont have to get out to change it over.
i think its much better than paying $240 from nissan for the genuine solenoid to operate it by a switch, it's not like i have to do it that often.
if you want to have a look at what i've done at all, you could always come up to morayfield on a weekend and meet up with me and i'll show you. plus it would be much easier to explain it in person i think.
PackyPacky wrote:sorry mate, should of read your first post properly :p
i ran mine from the tree on the inlet manifold. mine is carby atm but i will be converting to efi. all you should need to do is get a T piece for a vacuum line on your intake manifold and plumb it up that way. i have to change 2 hoses over when i want to engage the diff lock. i tried using 2 taps, simply one off and the other on for unlock, then change the taps around so the one that was origanally closed is open and vice versa. the problem i had there was that the diaphragm in the diff needs to draw air back down the now closed line to allow it to move to the other position. what i ended up doing was removing one of the taps and then all i need to do is have one vac line disconnected and connect the other one for it to lock in, then swap them over to unlock it. its a bit of a pain atm cause it is all still under the bonnet but i will be running the vac lines into the cab on top of the dash somewhere so i dont have to get out to change it over.
i think its much better than paying $240 from nissan for the genuine solenoid to operate it by a switch, it's not like i have to do it that often.
if you want to have a look at what i've done at all, you could always come up to morayfield on a weekend and meet up with me and i'll show you. plus it would be much easier to explain it in person i think.
you should be able to run what I think is called a 3way valve (bit like a 3way 12v switch). They have on-off-on. So first off is VAC diff-locked. Then just turn the valve to the other on posistion which would be VAC diff-unlocked.
Also pretty sure theres a thread around here somewhere where it mentions something about getting vac solinoids of some other cars from the wreckers. Then just use a 3way elec switch.
THOUGHT FOR THE DAY....
yeah i spoke to 4x4 wreckers at strathpine a few weeks ago and they said the same thing, just haven't had the time and money to get there and get some. will be doing it soon though as it would be much easier.turps wrote:you should be able to run what I think is called a 3way valve (bit like a 3way 12v switch). They have on-off-on. So first off is VAC diff-locked. Then just turn the valve to the other on posistion which would be VAC diff-unlocked.
Also pretty sure theres a thread around here somewhere where it mentions something about getting vac solinoids of some other cars from the wreckers. Then just use a 3way elec switch.
I think we got a bit off topic here
I'll clear a few things up:
vacum locker setup is in my how it arrived from factory - I did NOT put it in later on.. so everything needed to make it run is there now
carby petrol = vacum
efi turbo = boost (locker no worky due to absence of vacum)
what I'm after is a way to keep vacum source there on a turbo motor so the diff lock will still work
Comprende?
Cheers,
B.
I'll clear a few things up:
vacum locker setup is in my how it arrived from factory - I did NOT put it in later on.. so everything needed to make it run is there now
carby petrol = vacum
efi turbo = boost (locker no worky due to absence of vacum)
what I'm after is a way to keep vacum source there on a turbo motor so the diff lock will still work
Comprende?
Cheers,
B.
1988 351W GQ wagon
g'day mate,
not having a factorylocker myself, imnot 100% sure how they operate. do they need vacuum all the time to operate, or simpley need vacuum to lock in and then they stay in?
if it is the later (which i assume it would be) you should be able to use a one way valve similar to what is used on the brake booster of all turbo cars. i have one on my celica.
turbo motors still produce vacuum most the time, they only make boost when you are up them.... so when braking the motor is generally on vacuum, hence brake boosters etc still work. i assume you have to be stationary to lock the diff, so at that time the motor will be producing vacuum too.
i hope this makes sense and im not too far off track....
Cheers
Stew
not having a factorylocker myself, imnot 100% sure how they operate. do they need vacuum all the time to operate, or simpley need vacuum to lock in and then they stay in?
if it is the later (which i assume it would be) you should be able to use a one way valve similar to what is used on the brake booster of all turbo cars. i have one on my celica.
turbo motors still produce vacuum most the time, they only make boost when you are up them.... so when braking the motor is generally on vacuum, hence brake boosters etc still work. i assume you have to be stationary to lock the diff, so at that time the motor will be producing vacuum too.
i hope this makes sense and im not too far off track....
Cheers
Stew
the problem with that is that the locker will sometimes pull out by itself if it has no vacuum holding it in. tested this on mine when i put compressed air to the diaphragm and it popped out.toy77 wrote:g'day mate,
not having a factorylocker myself, imnot 100% sure how they operate. do they need vacuum all the time to operate, or simpley need vacuum to lock in and then they stay in?
if it is the later (which i assume it would be) you should be able to use a one way valve similar to what is used on the brake booster of all turbo cars. i have one on my celica.
turbo motors still produce vacuum most the time, they only make boost when you are up them.... so when braking the motor is generally on vacuum, hence brake boosters etc still work. i assume you have to be stationary to lock the diff, so at that time the motor will be producing vacuum too.
i hope this makes sense and im not too far off track....
Cheers
Stew
the only thing i could suggest is getting an arb compressor and hooking it up that way, might need to check this out cause too much pressure might tear the diaphragm, or you could have it set up like it is now and just reverse the vacuum lines going to the diff. this would turn the locker on with boost but when you aren't into it then it could unlock cause the pressure reverses. might pay to talk to some professionals about it as they might have a solution for you. sorry i couldn't help you mate.
My turboed Diesel GQ has factory lockers.
They're damned slow to engage and disengage, but it's obviously possible to have them on a turbo diesel, cause mine sure aren't using a compressor or anything else to operate them that I know of.
They're damned slow to engage and disengage, but it's obviously possible to have them on a turbo diesel, cause mine sure aren't using a compressor or anything else to operate them that I know of.
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You won't be using that stuff on full boost, well clutch and brakes anyway, one way valves, or intake side, will fixMulisha wrote:God dam am i in the shit??
I about to have a Turbo Tb42 patrol on monday ...
Will my brakes and stuff work? Can i use my factory diff lock still? Will my clutch and all that stuff be hard as !! when on full boost?
Rick.
Wanted: Car trailer or beaver tail truck, let me know what you got
you may have to fiddle round a bit, either get an electronic vacuum pump (used on V8s with big cams and carbys and have bugger all vacuum) or move them on the suck side of the turboMulisha wrote:God dam am i in the shit??
I about to have a Turbo Tb42 patrol on monday ...
Will my brakes and stuff work? Can i use my factory diff lock still? Will my clutch and all that stuff be hard as !! when on full boost?
Rick.
Hmm one way valves.. are they like what u use on fishy tanks lolcloughy wrote:You won't be using that stuff on full boost, well clutch and brakes anyway, one way valves, or intake side, will fixMulisha wrote:God dam am i in the shit??
I about to have a Turbo Tb42 patrol on monday ...
Will my brakes and stuff work? Can i use my factory diff lock still? Will my clutch and all that stuff be hard as !! when on full boost?
Rick.
How does a one valve work?
As i have no idea ..
Thanks !!!
Rick.. !!!
It only lets something travel one way, as the name suggestsMulisha wrote:Hmm one way valves.. are they like what u use on fishy tanks lolcloughy wrote:You won't be using that stuff on full boost, well clutch and brakes anyway, one way valves, or intake side, will fixMulisha wrote:God dam am i in the shit??
I about to have a Turbo Tb42 patrol on monday ...
Will my brakes and stuff work? Can i use my factory diff lock still? Will my clutch and all that stuff be hard as !! when on full boost?
Rick.
How does a one valve work?
As i have no idea ..
Thanks !!!
Rick.. !!!
Turbo engine (petrol) is only boosting while accelerating, ussually faster than your nanna, and under vacuum while on light cruise and decelleration (or driving like nanna), so you use a 1 way valve to store tha vacumm built up during those moments and seeing as you don't generally brake or change gears while accelerating, you don't need large reserves
If anyone else can dumb it down better, feel free, i not so good at splaining stuff
Wanted: Car trailer or beaver tail truck, let me know what you got
Thanks a shit load mate for that mate i just didn't know what that valve would do .. i do know though
My car isn't home at the moment so i can't see if there is a vac line going from my clucth to my manifold or something and if i could just buy one of those fish tank one way vales u use on the air line..
http://images.google.com.au/imgres?imgu ... safe%3Doff
Thanks alot
Rick.
My car isn't home at the moment so i can't see if there is a vac line going from my clucth to my manifold or something and if i could just buy one of those fish tank one way vales u use on the air line..
http://images.google.com.au/imgres?imgu ... safe%3Doff
Thanks alot
Rick.
you can fit vac tank off deisel td42 with non return valve that is in line after the alternater. Mount tank to inner gaurd or fire wall n run the hose from your manifold that feeds your brake booster to non return valve to t peice 1 end to brake booster other to tank then run all your normal vac difflock stuff off tank then when your under booste you will still have brakes n diff lock
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