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Painting a car
Moderators: toaddog, TWISTY, V8Patrol, Moderators
Painting a car
Hi guys..
Need some advice on painting a car - what to use, what to do and what not to do.. any help appreciated, thanks
Ben
Need some advice on painting a car - what to use, what to do and what not to do.. any help appreciated, thanks
Ben
[url=http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/ftopic129164.php[u]Supercharged SAS FJ Cruiser[/url]
got a flame suit??.... no not really...
searched the threads?
more info on end use budget finish desired and equipment available would help formulate intelligent and relevant answers... as you know we hate to bullshit around here..
Spock
searched the threads?
more info on end use budget finish desired and equipment available would help formulate intelligent and relevant answers... as you know we hate to bullshit around here..
Spock
www.pointnshoot.org
Suzuki Auto Spares Springwood
Century Batteries
Sylverkey
Extreme Coatings
Control Synergy
Suzuki Auto Spares Springwood
Century Batteries
Sylverkey
Extreme Coatings
Control Synergy
if it wa the 60ser, nothing short of a trip to to green lak int he middle of the night would fix that body work
Nah its my suzuki sierra, using 2.5hp air comp, conventional spray gun, and i'm not interested in it looking bling. Its being built to be thrashed crashed and smashed and id rather spend my money on barwork, but that being said i wouldnt mind if it looked okay from a 10m away with one eye closed
what sort of procedure do people foolow when sparying - an undercoat, spray putty etc? from what i've read it will probably be sprayed in an acrylic.
thanks
Nah its my suzuki sierra, using 2.5hp air comp, conventional spray gun, and i'm not interested in it looking bling. Its being built to be thrashed crashed and smashed and id rather spend my money on barwork, but that being said i wouldnt mind if it looked okay from a 10m away with one eye closed
what sort of procedure do people foolow when sparying - an undercoat, spray putty etc? from what i've read it will probably be sprayed in an acrylic.
thanks
[url=http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/ftopic129164.php[u]Supercharged SAS FJ Cruiser[/url]
Go to an automotive paint store, not super cheap or bunnings,
tell them what your after and your budget and go from there.
Sounds like your after a good rub back, possibly patch up the
worst spots, a good clean, undercoat/prime and hit it!
Remember, light colours/white hide marks, but keeping close
to the original colour (or close) means it still looks neat in the
door jams and bonnet ect. Go acrylic without a clear if your
going to knock it about and touch ups are easy
tell them what your after and your budget and go from there.
Sounds like your after a good rub back, possibly patch up the
worst spots, a good clean, undercoat/prime and hit it!
Remember, light colours/white hide marks, but keeping close
to the original colour (or close) means it still looks neat in the
door jams and bonnet ect. Go acrylic without a clear if your
going to knock it about and touch ups are easy
If your not to worried about it i'd use an enamel with 5% HARDNER.The hardener basicaly turns the enamel into a cheap 2 pac. I'd just prime your repairs, than rub the whole thing down with p400 wet. When finished give the 4wd a good wash with a hose, than give it a good wash with Wax & grease remover. Than put a coat of WET ON WET (scan sealer) primer down this will seal off all the old paint before painting. Allow a 15 minute flash off than put 2 coats of the emamel on allowing 10 minutes between coats. This will have gloss off the gun and require no buffing for a shine and its easily touched up providing you use a hardener in the enamel (most important)Cruzer! wrote:if it wa the 60ser, nothing short of a trip to to green lak int he middle of the night would fix that body work
Nah its my suzuki sierra, using 2.5hp air comp, conventional spray gun, and i'm not interested in it looking bling. Its being built to be thrashed crashed and smashed and id rather spend my money on barwork, but that being said i wouldnt mind if it looked okay from a 10m away with one eye closed
what sort of procedure do people foolow when sparying - an undercoat, spray putty etc? from what i've read it will probably be sprayed in an acrylic.
thanks
This is how I would do it. If you use acrylic it will take more coats and basically looks like crap. Doing it this way would be just as cheap as using acylic only it looks so much better. Hope this helps.
Cheers Mick
God of Magnificant Ideas!
Mick's advise ( above posts ) is pretty good
But ......
for the ultimate elcheapo respray ya cant beat a can of expander foam, a small tin of bog, and the 20 lit drums of "fence paint" and a roller
I did this to one of the bosses old acco trucks just so it look "tidy" while the coppers were having a blitz.
Fill the rust holes with expander foam and allow time to dry.
Cut excess foam off and smear a small amout of bog over the foam and allow time to dry.
sand if ya wanna get fussy ( we didnt )
Wait till its a hot day ( 40 degrees ) and use the roller and cheap fence paint to cover the cab.
NB:
no masking up is required if using a roller
Cost was less than $100, took all of 4 hours to do it, looked a million dollars for about 4 months
Kingy
ps/
follow Micks advice
But ......
for the ultimate elcheapo respray ya cant beat a can of expander foam, a small tin of bog, and the 20 lit drums of "fence paint" and a roller
I did this to one of the bosses old acco trucks just so it look "tidy" while the coppers were having a blitz.
Fill the rust holes with expander foam and allow time to dry.
Cut excess foam off and smear a small amout of bog over the foam and allow time to dry.
sand if ya wanna get fussy ( we didnt )
Wait till its a hot day ( 40 degrees ) and use the roller and cheap fence paint to cover the cab.
NB:
no masking up is required if using a roller
Cost was less than $100, took all of 4 hours to do it, looked a million dollars for about 4 months
Kingy
ps/
follow Micks advice
[color=blue][size=150][b]And your cry-baby, whinyassed opinion would be.....? [/b][/size][/color]
my Suzki has been sprayed a couple of times. It was originally yellow I then spray canned it Rivergum Satin. This is basically colorbond roof paint. Gave the car a quick clean and used 4 cans and all was good.
Then I got sick of that colour so I used White Knight Orange spray cans and painted it with them. Again a quick clean and then about 10 cans of paint.
Then I got bored and I needed to rego the car so I painted it with Hammertone Charcol spray cans. Qucik clean and 4 cans later.
Then I got sick of that colour so I used White Knight Orange spray cans and painted it with them. Again a quick clean and then about 10 cans of paint.
Then I got bored and I needed to rego the car so I painted it with Hammertone Charcol spray cans. Qucik clean and 4 cans later.
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Ransom note = demand + collage
can you use any enamel with hardner?Mick. wrote:If your not to worried about it i'd use an enamel with 5% HARDNER.The hardener basicaly turns the enamel into a cheap 2 pac. I'd just prime your repairs, than rub the whole thing down with p400 wet. When finished give the 4wd a good wash with a hose, than give it a good wash with Wax & grease remover. Than put a coat of WET ON WET (scan sealer) primer down this will seal off all the old paint before painting. Allow a 15 minute flash off than put 2 coats of the emamel on allowing 10 minutes between coats. This will have gloss off the gun and require no buffing for a shine and its easily touched up providing you use a hardener in the enamel (most important)Cruzer! wrote:if it wa the 60ser, nothing short of a trip to to green lak int he middle of the night would fix that body work
Nah its my suzuki sierra, using 2.5hp air comp, conventional spray gun, and i'm not interested in it looking bling. Its being built to be thrashed crashed and smashed and id rather spend my money on barwork, but that being said i wouldnt mind if it looked okay from a 10m away with one eye closed
what sort of procedure do people foolow when sparying - an undercoat, spray putty etc? from what i've read it will probably be sprayed in an acrylic.
thanks
This is how I would do it. If you use acrylic it will take more coats and basically looks like crap. Doing it this way would be just as cheap as using acylic only it looks so much better. Hope this helps.
Cheers Mick
You can use any automotive enamel with pretty much any 2 pac hardner. I cant say for sure wheather it would work with fence, house roof enamels though. You can buy little 250ml hardener for super cheap auto.GRINCH wrote:can you use any enamel with hardner?Mick. wrote:If your not to worried about it i'd use an enamel with 5% HARDNER.The hardener basicaly turns the enamel into a cheap 2 pac. I'd just prime your repairs, than rub the whole thing down with p400 wet. When finished give the 4wd a good wash with a hose, than give it a good wash with Wax & grease remover. Than put a coat of WET ON WET (scan sealer) primer down this will seal off all the old paint before painting. Allow a 15 minute flash off than put 2 coats of the emamel on allowing 10 minutes between coats. This will have gloss off the gun and require no buffing for a shine and its easily touched up providing you use a hardener in the enamel (most important)Cruzer! wrote:if it wa the 60ser, nothing short of a trip to to green lak int he middle of the night would fix that body work
Nah its my suzuki sierra, using 2.5hp air comp, conventional spray gun, and i'm not interested in it looking bling. Its being built to be thrashed crashed and smashed and id rather spend my money on barwork, but that being said i wouldnt mind if it looked okay from a 10m away with one eye closed
what sort of procedure do people foolow when sparying - an undercoat, spray putty etc? from what i've read it will probably be sprayed in an acrylic.
thanks
This is how I would do it. If you use acrylic it will take more coats and basically looks like crap. Doing it this way would be just as cheap as using acylic only it looks so much better. Hope this helps.
Cheers Mick
Cheers Mick.
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