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Dual Battery set up
Moderator: -Scott-
Dual Battery set up
Hey all,
i'll be putting in a second battery in my NH this weekend and was after some hints, tips, pics ect ect.
oh and while i'm at it i'll be doing the head gaskits as well
cheers
i'll be putting in a second battery in my NH this weekend and was after some hints, tips, pics ect ect.
oh and while i'm at it i'll be doing the head gaskits as well
cheers
He who laughs last thinks slowest.
Without knowing the bits you're using it's a little difficult to be specific. A couple of tips which may be relevant...
Scott
- Relocate your carbon canister to the bull bar so you can stick the second battery near the first (you probably planned this anyway. ) If you have ABS (do you?) you can't stick it on the driver's side, and if you don't have ABS that space is perfect for an underbonnet compressor. That's what I think, anyway.
Have some "quick disconnect" ability on the second battery. (I use a fuse, but if you're winching that may not be good.) I've found mechanics only ever disconnect the primary battery. With my isolator (Jaycar unit using FETs for the switching) if they disconnect the +ve from the main battery and let it hit ground there's a brief flash, and I have an hour or two of work ahead of me.
Scott
This is what I did : -
- ARB dual battery solenoid which gives preference to charging starting battery then 2nd battery if starting battery is low for some reason it will draw current from 2nd battery to help crank the motor
- second battery (deep cycle) is where the carbon canister usually resides (Piranha battery tray)
- carbon cannister welded to the side of factory battery tray
- winch is wired to starting battery
- rear accessory socket with 30A fuse and wiring wired to second battery along with UHF radio, GPS & twin rear compressors
- Piranha dual battery monitor on dash
- front ciggy lighter & accessory socket have the fusible links removed but are still wired as factory (to starting battery)
Works very well and I can get about 3-4 days out of the Engel before needing to charge.
I'll be replacing both batteries (4x4 Exides) with Optima yellow tops soon as the Exides are getting on a bit.
- ARB dual battery solenoid which gives preference to charging starting battery then 2nd battery if starting battery is low for some reason it will draw current from 2nd battery to help crank the motor
- second battery (deep cycle) is where the carbon canister usually resides (Piranha battery tray)
- carbon cannister welded to the side of factory battery tray
- winch is wired to starting battery
- rear accessory socket with 30A fuse and wiring wired to second battery along with UHF radio, GPS & twin rear compressors
- Piranha dual battery monitor on dash
- front ciggy lighter & accessory socket have the fusible links removed but are still wired as factory (to starting battery)
Works very well and I can get about 3-4 days out of the Engel before needing to charge.
I'll be replacing both batteries (4x4 Exides) with Optima yellow tops soon as the Exides are getting on a bit.
I just luv my "clacker Jabber"
Are there any dual set-ups for a petrolium Pajero/Montero. I have looked under the hood and have not found the space available to do something like this. Any ideas and/or pics?
Thanks,
Angelo
Thanks,
Angelo
ARB-WarnHS9500i-Skids-OME-2"BattleZ-JAOSlateralRod&RearLadder-16"Excell2w/285BFG-H4Challenger Lights-RoofRack2w/backups&Searchlight IPF-33TSL on Steelies-PIAA-Raybrig-OverheadConsole w/CB-Locked
Angelo
Have you browsed through the Pajero Club Forum? There's a number of members there with two batteries, and I'm fairly certain there's a few pics too.
I believe ARB make a battery tray to hold two batteries, which replaces the existing tray.
I think fitting requires movement of aircon pipes, but it doesn't sound like a huge job - I guess fittings need to be loosened, which may lead to loss of gas, so it might be a job for an auto-air specialist.
Of course, your steering column/brakes(/clutch?) may get in the way...
Battery box in the back?
Scott
Have you browsed through the Pajero Club Forum? There's a number of members there with two batteries, and I'm fairly certain there's a few pics too.
I believe ARB make a battery tray to hold two batteries, which replaces the existing tray.
I think fitting requires movement of aircon pipes, but it doesn't sound like a huge job - I guess fittings need to be loosened, which may lead to loss of gas, so it might be a job for an auto-air specialist.
Of course, your steering column/brakes(/clutch?) may get in the way...
Battery box in the back?
Scott
How do you find the pirhana battery monitor frank? is it able to be fitted to any setup? I have never really bothered with anything like that except an ammeter on the 2nd battery connected up on the drawers in the back of the truck. prolly will change it to a voltmeter though as the corrugations on the last trip killed it :(
Mine is just a pirhana battery tray on the firewall. I use a redarc solenoid. I initially was using a sealed deepcycle battery (that could also handle high charge rates) but found that it was causing over charging of the main battery, so recently replaced them both with almost matching cranking batteries that have a standby rate of 120AH, so shouldn't run them down too low to damage it even with the fridge and invertor etc.
I did a similar thing to frank, wired up cbs and radio +all aux sockets to the 2nd battery so i can leave them on.
Rob
Mine is just a pirhana battery tray on the firewall. I use a redarc solenoid. I initially was using a sealed deepcycle battery (that could also handle high charge rates) but found that it was causing over charging of the main battery, so recently replaced them both with almost matching cranking batteries that have a standby rate of 120AH, so shouldn't run them down too low to damage it even with the fridge and invertor etc.
I did a similar thing to frank, wired up cbs and radio +all aux sockets to the 2nd battery so i can leave them on.
Rob
96 Paj 2.8 TD 2" lift, Snorkel, LR Tank, Dual Batt, winch, 32 MTRs, RT tent and rack, polyairs etc
The master cylinder gets in the way on our driver side, your passenger side. On the other side of the compartment there is the ABS module. Honestly I would love to take the ABS out and replace it with a regular master cylinder.NJ SWB wrote:Angelo
Of course, your steering column/brakes(/clutch?) may get in the way...
DougH
95SR: locked front and rear, more coming soon.
95SR: locked front and rear, more coming soon.
Bugger.DougH wrote:The master cylinder gets in the way on our driver side, your passenger side. On the other side of the compartment there is the ABS module. Honestly I would love to take the ABS out and replace it with a regular master cylinder.NJ SWB wrote:Angelo
Of course, your steering column/brakes(/clutch?) may get in the way...
I presume the ABS module has electrical and hydraulic connections - what would be involved in relocating it?
Scott
have a look here
http://www.pajeroclub.com.au/forum/foru ... PN=0&TPN=2
http://www.pajeroclub.com.au/forum/foru ... PN=0&TPN=2
91 Pajero GLS
32 BFG'S
and a lot of scratches
I Hate Lantana!!!!!
32 BFG'S
and a lot of scratches
I Hate Lantana!!!!!
my duel batt system
dual battery isolator + battery monitor from abr
battery tray from superceap autos
terminals and battery cables from peps
i removed the antipolution canister bracket then pushed the canister down ner ac pipes fitted bracket from motor to batt tray put rubber pipe over ac pipe sat batt tray on top of pipe and bolt through inerguard.
then used the canester bracket holes to mount isolator.
ps battery is very secure
dual battery isolator + battery monitor from abr
battery tray from superceap autos
terminals and battery cables from peps
i removed the antipolution canister bracket then pushed the canister down ner ac pipes fitted bracket from motor to batt tray put rubber pipe over ac pipe sat batt tray on top of pipe and bolt through inerguard.
then used the canester bracket holes to mount isolator.
ps battery is very secure
Here is a pic of the duel setup I had in my old Paj. Basicly extended the orig battery tray in length and added some "legs" to secure and suport it.
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2005 TD 100 series GXl wagon . Stock except bar and tyres . Plan on doing lots of touring in this one.
Can I run a two batteries setup without the swich or insolator???I'm thinking of puting positive with positive and the same with a negative.....
What do you think????? it is posible????
What do you think????? it is posible????
Montero 98, Gen2, Leaf sprung, 5sp man, 3.0 lt 12 valve, 4.625 gears, 1.925 T-case, custom snorkel, custom bull bar, custom shackels, add a leaves, 2inch lift, CB radio, 32x11.50 Pirelli AT.
Say your battery 1 is brand new ie holds a good charge
Now say your battery 2 has seen better days, is lesser in quality or lesser speced
A good battery will hold 13.6v but as they wear they can hold less
What happens is the battery2 drains from the good battery1 even without a load. They try to equalise
Effectively you only get the performance of the lesser
Worse still if one battery fails it will kill the outer
Now say your battery 2 has seen better days, is lesser in quality or lesser speced
A good battery will hold 13.6v but as they wear they can hold less
What happens is the battery2 drains from the good battery1 even without a load. They try to equalise
Effectively you only get the performance of the lesser
Worse still if one battery fails it will kill the outer
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non illegitimi carborundum!
[url=http://www.suzuki4wd.com.au/forum/]Suzuki 4wd Club of NSW forum[/url]
non illegitimi carborundum!
[url=http://www.suzuki4wd.com.au/forum/]Suzuki 4wd Club of NSW forum[/url]
Just to be contrary, I don't believe that this is an issue. Once both batteries are fully charged they will deliver whatever current they can given their terminal voltage. If one is in better condition than the other, it will deliver more current, but their terminal voltages will be the same - because they're connected.
If they're being "float charged" with the correct constant voltage, they'll each accept only the current they want, until they're fully charged - and one will almost be fully charged before the other.
If one battery is flat, the other won't be able to charge it - because a fully charged battery hasn't got the terminal voltage which is required to reverse the normal discharge reaction, and charge the dud battery. (Anybody who actually pays attention to anything I write may recall that I've previously said different in other threads. I now think I was wrong. )
Notwithstanding the above, I do believe it's a good idea to do as Doug suggested - if you're going to permanently wire the two batteries in parallel. I don't believe it's as critical if you're using a "smart solenoid" which preferentially charges your starting battery.
Note that none of the above applies to two batteries in series i.e. 24V operation. It's absolutely critical that the two batteries are identical, and identically charged when they're initially connected.
Cheers,
Scott
If they're being "float charged" with the correct constant voltage, they'll each accept only the current they want, until they're fully charged - and one will almost be fully charged before the other.
If one battery is flat, the other won't be able to charge it - because a fully charged battery hasn't got the terminal voltage which is required to reverse the normal discharge reaction, and charge the dud battery. (Anybody who actually pays attention to anything I write may recall that I've previously said different in other threads. I now think I was wrong. )
Notwithstanding the above, I do believe it's a good idea to do as Doug suggested - if you're going to permanently wire the two batteries in parallel. I don't believe it's as critical if you're using a "smart solenoid" which preferentially charges your starting battery.
Note that none of the above applies to two batteries in series i.e. 24V operation. It's absolutely critical that the two batteries are identical, and identically charged when they're initially connected.
Cheers,
Scott
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