Ahhh.. stupid Isuzu Rodeo deigners

[rainsey]

Geeezz..

Trying to fit max rubber under my guard. I have a 16" x 8" rim with a 70% BFG Muddie 285/75 16. From the front of the tyre to the bull bar... 5", from the top of the tyre to the guard... 5" From the rear of the tyre to the guard... - 1 poofteenth of an inch. If it was central, a standard 285/75 would fit.

A perfect solution destryoyed by a wheel that is not central to either side of the front guard!! Why the photon cannot designers think for a change.

Yours pissed off

Rainsey

[sudso]

Geeezz..

Trying to fit max rubber under my guard. I have a 16" x 8" rim with a 70% BFG Muddie 285/75 16. From the front of the tyre to the bull bar... 5", from the top of the tyre to the guard... 5" From the rear of the tyre to the guard... - 1 poofteenth of an inch. If it was central, a standard 285/75 would fit.

A perfect solution destryoyed by a wheel that is not central to either side of the front guard!! Why the photon cannot designers think for a change.

Yours pissed off

Rainsey

Angle grinder?

I'm hearing ya!
I just bought some 33x10.5x15 bfg muddies for mine. I havent tried them on yet as I'm picking them up from my mates this weekend.
Mine are 32.8 high x 10.5 wide

the 285/75/16's are 33.1 high x 11.3 wide

The 265/75/16 are 32 x 10.5
These sizes are when new though.

Looks like I'll have 2 poofteenths of an inch clearance then.
I'll have to get the t/b's reindexed and wound up high. I've got some alloys with a slightly deeper dish to put them on so the tyres should stick out a bit more and hopefully miss the inner guards when turning.

One thing though if your tyres dont rub anywhere especially at full compression and/or full lock it's ok, even if it's only a poofteenth of an inch.
next job after that will be ball joint flip w/spacer, bump stop mods and longer shocks up front.

[sudso]

Oh, and Rodeo's aren't the only IFS ones with the problem

[rainsey]

Sudso,

On full lock either side I am sweet. The only thing I hit is the plastic liner on the back of the guard down the very bottom back corner.

Oh... and I do appologise, I have not forgotten your earlier ball joint question... I have just been slack.. sorry.

Cheers

Graham

[sudso]

Have you wound your torsion bars right up?

[Utemad]

I think I have posted this before but here is my Rodeo with 33s on 15x10in rims with 65mm more offset than standard Cruiser rims. They are off my brothers 40 series.



As you say I think I had about one fingers width between my mud flap and the tyre. My ute was standard in that photo. I couldn't turn the steering wheel.

I think you are in for a grinder of a good time

Don't forget that if you have only a poofteenth of a gap between the guard and tyre, it might be fine with a clean tyre but what happens when the mud builds up there or you pick up a rock in your tread? Could get ugly.

[rainsey]

Don't forget that if you have only a poofteenth of a gap between the guard and tyre, it might be fine with a clean tyre but what happens when the mud builds up there or you pick up a rock in your tread? Could get ugly.

As Doctor Smith once said .." The pain... the pain".

Being the butcher that I am, I was hoping that the for mud to get on the tyre would be wet enough to be knocked off by the mud flap (I am embarised to say this though)..

And Sudso.. re the tortion bars... as far as they can go without reindexing them. Height wise I am at a suitable height at the front to match the back.

Say Sudso.... keep me posted on your 33 x 10.5's.

Cheers

Rainsey

[sudso]

Don't forget that if you have only a poofteenth of a gap between the guard and tyre, it might be fine with a clean tyre but what happens when the mud builds up there or you pick up a rock in your tread? Could get ugly.

As Doctor Smith once said .." The pain... the pain".

Being the butcher that I am, I was hoping that the for mud to get on the tyre would be wet enough to be knocked off by the mud flap (I am embarised to say this though)..

And Sudso.. re the tortion bars... as far as they can go without reindexing them. Height wise I am at a suitable height at the front to match the back.

Say Sudso.... keep me posted on your 33 x 10.5's.

Cheers

Rainsey

Picking them up this weekend

[sudso]

I think I have posted this before but here is my Rodeo with 33s on 15x10in rims with 65mm more offset than standard Cruiser rims. They are off my brothers 40 series.



As you say I think I had about one fingers width between my mud flap and the tyre. My ute was standard in that photo. I couldn't turn the steering wheel.

I think you are in for a grinder of a good time

Don't forget that if you have only a poofteenth of a gap between the guard and tyre, it might be fine with a clean tyre but what happens when the mud builds up there or you pick up a rock in your tread? Could get ugly.

Good point Utemad. Justifies going higher again. The Calmini front end kit is looking very attractive at this point.

What you mean you couldn't turn the steering wheel? Tyres got caught in the guards or just too hard to turn?

[rainsey]

Hey Guys.....

Figured out an interesting fact tonight..

I have typically always tested tyres on my drivers side. With a chardy in hand and a closer look I noticed that my drivers side guard is about 5 mill futher out than my passengers side guard. I put the worn 285/75 on my passangers side and no rub.....

So... with this interesing fact I am going to align my drivers side guard with the other side and see if my test tyre and rim fits!!!

Re the Calmini kit... height is not a prob. I have a shite load of height after a 2" body lift and a 2" suspesion lift.. it is only the lateral movemenent from the back of the guard to the tyre.

Stay posted... this one is not going to beat me!!!!

Cheers

Rainsey

[Utemad]

What you mean you couldn't turn the steering wheel? Tyres got caught in the guards or just too hard to turn?

I couldn't turn the wheel because the tyre was too close to the back of the wheel arch (mudflap area). Plus it was too close to my bullbar wings. However as Rainsey says with a 2in suspension lift and another 2in body lift things would no doubt be better.

[sudso]

rainsey found:

I have typically always tested tyres on my drivers side. With a chardy in hand and a closer look I noticed that my drivers side guard is about 5 mill futher out than my passengers side guard. I put the worn 285/75 on my passangers side and no rub.....

and how many chardy's had you partaken of when you discovered this?

Or should I say: "damn weirdo Isuzu designers!"

Oh yeah, the muddies are now home and in the shed for now until I get around to trying them on but just sitting them up against the 10R's on the car I can see how close they fit in those pissy little wheel arches.

(for utemad) You said the 33" you tried on were 12.5" wide. Be interesting to see how my 10.5x33's go. Think I'm gonna hafta chop the bullbar wings off mine too (ARB winch bar) which also removes the bolts in them. Might have to weld lugs and rebolt it at 90 deg. there.

[rainsey]

Sudso.... how are your 33's going. Have not seen much more recently.

I was not going to let the 285/75 muddies beat me so I attacked the front guards with the angle grinder... The bit I cut out that mounts the plastic cover, I trimmed and welded back on.

Now I just have to get the rest of the tyres (only have one at the moment)

Cheers

Rainsey

[sudso]

Nice neat job Rainsey! Thats what I plan to do with mine. It makes those wheel arches look like they were made for 33's now.

Any issues with the bull bar bracket rubbing on the tyre under compression while turning?

I have tried my 33's only on the front to see what I need to trim.
Same as yours but also the "wings" on the rear of the bull bar brackets on both sides will need to be decapitated.

I was going to do this today but its been 40 degrees under my carport all day so I'll start when it cools down.

I still cant get photos from Pbucket onto here
Any one got some easy steps?

[rainsey]

Sudso,

I still only have a single tire ( the one in the pic) that is about 70% O/K and this one does not scrub on the bull bar mounts.

Before I purchase a whole truck full of 285's I have given my rim to a tire shop to fit a new muddy on it, should get it back on Monday as they only ordered it in on Friday. If the new muddy with its full diameter fits under the modified guard, the order goes in for another 4.

I have a gut feel that under load and full lock, the bull bar mount will hit the rubber ( will find out on Monday hopefully). This being the case, the angle grinder comes back into play. With the worn tire, I have about 8 - 10mm of play at this point. My worn tire is 831 in diameter the new one should be 841mm. Theory has it that I should be O/K.

Having never done anything like this before it was bloody easy. I marked the guards with a pen trying to get the right radius to match the front of the guard. Used a Dremel with a cutting wheel to cut the steel, and my trusty mig welded it back on.

The dremel tool was fantastic as its cutting blade, being smaller in diameter to the angle grinder, made the cutting of the arc on the guard a breeze. What I did find though that there are a major difference between original Dremel brand cutting disks and the cheaper (very cheaper ) 3rd party. The drivers guard using el cheapo cutting wheels when through nearly 12 wheels to cut the guard. The other side using the original product.... 1& half disks.

The rim I am using is an ROH TrackII with a neg 13 offset. Seems to be made for the job. I also pissed off my fibreglass flares and put on some 63mm extension Bushranger Flexy Flares... Bloody fantastic... I recommend them.

I also trimmed down my front suspension arm bumper stops to get max travel. Oh, by the way, if you have not done a 2" body lift... do it. Raising the body just this much makes the larger diameter tires fit just that much better.

Keep me up to date with your progress.

Cheers

Rainsey

[sudso]

Well I just trimmed off the b/bar wings, (ARB winch bar) If yours is the same bar you'll have to do likewise.
If you pm me your email I can send you some pic's.

I've just also removed the mudflaps and liners etc. but those 2 philips head screws that hold the steel backing plate were tight as a ********* and I stripped the haeds so I had to cut them off. Cleared out all dry mud behind it too, what a trap point!
I drew a line to cut the guards but it didnt look quite right so I'm here to have another squiz at yours, I dont think I started high enough.

Yes I will do a body lift as well, probably only enough that I dont have to change or extend anything. Did you have to change anything for 2"?

My muddies are on 15's, dont know what the offset is on the alloys I'm going to put them on but with 9.5's on them at the moment they just make it inside the guard at full compression with a fingers clearance. The muddies are 10.5 but with the lift now, I think they might just rub but a body lift will sort that.

I have some flexi flare rubber too 65mm, not Bushranger, just bought a 6mt length from a rubber supplier. Only difference is it doesnt have the wire in the outer edge but only cost 12 bucks a metre Sold 2 mts to my bro'in law for his hilux.

I'm back to the grindstone

[Utemad]

Yes I will do a body lift as well, probably only enough that I dont have to change or extend anything. Did you have to change anything for 2"?

I had to remove the body mounting point of the clutch line to the rubber line for my 40mm body lift. I just removed the bolt and let it hang. The hose doesn't need to be longer it just needs to be mounted further forward if that makes sense. I planned on bolting a short (i.e. 1 inch) piece of steel between the mount and the bracket to bring the mount forward but never did.

Passed one Department of Transport inspection and one Safety Certificate like that

[rainsey]

Sudso,

the philips head screws were cown of things to remove one mine, although I only managed to wreck one of the heads. If you do trim your guards, this plate will not go back in and will have to be trimmed due to the smaller to no offset between inner and outer portions of the guard.

The other thing that will need modding is the plastic cover inside the guard. The only reason I am putting this back on is that I seem to attract a lot of mud holes when I go off road (funny enough even in dry weather??) and these covers could stop the top of the guard getting clogged.

Utemad, re the body lift, my R7 may be slightly different to the later R9's as with the 50"" (infact it was almost 60mm when I put a little more ruber between blocks and body) I had no changes to make except I cut the radiator cowling in half so as to clear the fan blades.

Sudso... a couple of outer pics side on before the weld.

Cheers

Rainsey

[Utemad]

Utemad, re the body lift, my R7 may be slightly different to the later R9's as with the 50"" (infact it was almost 60mm when I put a little more ruber between blocks and body) I had no changes to make except I cut the radiator cowling in half so as to clear the fan blades.

Mine is an R7 too (1997) perhaps the diesel has a longer clutch rubber hose? Although the gearbox should be the same. With 40mm my clutch hose wasn't quite tight as such but it didn't have any more length in it.
I lowered my radiator instead of cutting the cowling too.

[sudso]

Well I discovered tonight the reason why muddy water got sucked or pressured into the bellhousing and stuffing my clutch.

At the very bottom of the bellhousing right where it butts up to the engine is a rectangular metal cap with a foam seal. FRIGGING FOAM!
BTW my gearbox is a MUA5C.

There is no fording depth given in the owners manual yet it says this:

"Whenever driving across a shallow river or deep puddle, care must be excersized or water may enter the air intake............." bla bla bla!

Now that indicates a reasonable water depth can be crossed, 400-500mm? Yet they put a foam seal/breather or whatever it is at one of the lowest points on the transmission! Dickheads!
I realise it may be there to soak leaking oil from the rear main seal or front seal of the gearbox thus giving an indication of a leak but not allowing oil to drip into the enviroment, although it would eventually, but why not give a warning in the owners manual that water will definitely get through it and stuff your clutch! Aaaaargh!

Anyway I flushed it out with the garden hose, a fair bit of muddy crap came out and it finally freed up the clutch but the thrust bearing sounds like it's stuffed.

Now I've got to pull the steering box apart and replace the seal around the shaft that connects to the drag link. Seems it couldn't handle going hard in the rough stuff with 33's.

[rainsey]

Sudso,

Is this the point that the cluch shift fork goes into the bell housing?? I just got under mine and cannot find a foam seal. I know there is a breather at the top of the transfer case but I am having trouble identifying the air intake that your manual referes to!!

Regardsless.. sounds like a bummer. I recently had to get my gearbox rebuilt and the clutch plate and assembly stung me over $500.

Cheers

Rainsey

[Utemad]

I know exactly what you are talking about. When I take my Rodeo on the beach or through mud I always (well usually) clean the surrounding area and put a big bit of that 100 mile an hour tape over not just the hole but the entire join.

It stays there quite well and keeps all the crap out.

You are right though. When my rear main seal was buggered the oil used to come out of that hole. I imagine the foam is to stop the dust getting in but lets the oil out (and the water, mud and sand in )

[sudso]

Sudso,

Is this the point that the cluch shift fork goes into the bell housing?? I just got under mine and cannot find a foam seal. I know there is a breather at the top of the transfer case but I am having trouble identifying the air intake that your manual referes to!!

Regardsless.. sounds like a bummer. I recently had to get my gearbox rebuilt and the clutch plate and assembly stung me over $500.

Cheers

Rainsey

$500 bucks? That's good! I have a reciept from the previous owner of mine, a new clutch kit = $900 fitted. Oh yeah, V6 clutch is a bit different to deisel, has more clamping force.

Now this foam breather/ seal thingy is bolted to the bottom of the bellhousing right where the bellhousing meets the engine.
The foam is an adhesive backed strip on a thin metal plate bolted to the bottom of the bellhousing with 2 small bolts. You cant really see it from behind the crossmember.
The V6 clutch is different in a few respects from the diesel one. Clutch fork is contained within the bellhousing actuated by a slave cylinder.

The air intake (air cleaner etc.) is in section 4-5 Water Crossings of your owners manual