Copied over from my post on 4WDM http://www.4wdmonthly.com.au/forum/inde ... adid=16899.
Dual Battery Setup.
What
Make room in the Rodeo engine bay to fit a second battery for powering camp lights, small between the seats travel fridge, stereo, uhf.
How
Figured the best place (and the same as used by Pirahna) was in the passenger side rear of the engine bay. This however is currently occupied by the charcoal canister used for emissions control. Scoped out where it may go and there was a nice space in front of the brake master cylinder, and behind the existing battery. The tubes fitted ok so it was a simple case of unbolting the bracket, unplugging the hoses and taking off the lower bracket of the canister holder, then a little bending of the base to match the angle of the wheel arch. I used an existing hole and drilled two more used the old bolts and a couple of nuts found in the garage. Plugged the hoses back on, and found I could do away with the metal pipe going across the back of the engine bay.
The last step was to move the wiring harness plugs, these were routed under the bracket of the power steering resevoir and bolted to the inner bolt of the radiator overflow bottle.
To complete i'll need to fabricate up a battery tray, as the $130 for a Piranah is a bit steep. Also will be getting a redarc smart solenoid. And finally a 55AH deep cycle battery. This is about the biggest AH for an 8" battery that fits in the space.
Cost
Nothing yet
Issues
The new location of the charcoal canister is a bit close to the dipstick, but I can still pull it out.
Still going to be a tight fit for the battery. But there is another idea of moving the recovery bottle, moving the airbox into the rear space I have created and extending the pipe to the throttle, then placing the recovery bottle back in front of the airbox. There should after this rejig be space identicle to the existing battery tray, just on the opposite side.[/url]
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The startings of a dual battery setup - 1998 V6 Rodeo.
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That is where ARB have put my second battery tray (about 4 years ago). Although as for the charcoal canistor it was just moved further to the front of the engine bay on the same side as it was before.
The tray I got is only big enough to fit the same as my standard starting battery (air intake hose gets in the way. It just touches the battery as it is). So I moved the start battery to the new tray and put a big 2nd battery into the factory position.
There are photos of it on this forum somewhere in the Isuzu area.
This is with a 2.6 4cyl motor though not the V6.
The tray I got is only big enough to fit the same as my standard starting battery (air intake hose gets in the way. It just touches the battery as it is). So I moved the start battery to the new tray and put a big 2nd battery into the factory position.
There are photos of it on this forum somewhere in the Isuzu area.
This is with a 2.6 4cyl motor though not the V6.
Yeah utemad, I have seen the different options we rodeo guys have tried here. I''ll have to stick with the N70ZZ in the standard position, as it is too big to go in the new space.
Oddessy make a small battery the size of the standard one that has massive CCA (1100??)
Don't think I could be bothered rewiring the starting battery though
Oddessy make a small battery the size of the standard one that has massive CCA (1100??)
Don't think I could be bothered rewiring the starting battery though
Well my starter battery is smaller than yours and I use an N70ZZ (???) as my second battery since my deep cycle died.
It is not hard to rewire your starter on the Rodeo. If it is anything like my 2.6 wiring that is. All I did was run a really heavy duty cable from my new postion starting battery psoitive down to the starter motor. Then I insulated my old starting battery position positive battery clamp (using some you beaut insulation card from work and electrical tape) while tightening the bolt still so all the factory additional connections were secure.
Before I insulated the old position battery terminal I actually ran a cable from the clamp to my battery isolator. Then another cable from the other side of the battery isolator to the second battery positive.
So really there is nothing to it.
However if your starter is an N70ZZ then it won't fit in the new position so all this is irrelevant to you
It is not hard to rewire your starter on the Rodeo. If it is anything like my 2.6 wiring that is. All I did was run a really heavy duty cable from my new postion starting battery psoitive down to the starter motor. Then I insulated my old starting battery position positive battery clamp (using some you beaut insulation card from work and electrical tape) while tightening the bolt still so all the factory additional connections were secure.
Before I insulated the old position battery terminal I actually ran a cable from the clamp to my battery isolator. Then another cable from the other side of the battery isolator to the second battery positive.
So really there is nothing to it.
However if your starter is an N70ZZ then it won't fit in the new position so all this is irrelevant to you
Hopefully the Jackaroo engine bay is the same as the Rodeo, and I'll be able to do as this person has done with their Jack.
The space is there in mine, just have to move the powersteering res inboard a little more.
http://forum.australia4wd.com/index.php ... =323&st=15
The space is there in mine, just have to move the powersteering res inboard a little more.
http://forum.australia4wd.com/index.php ... =323&st=15
I cant put a second battery under the hood of mine because of the LPG convertor right where your putting your battery Timbo. I could probably do like our local cops (3.2V6 R9) and have 2 small batteries wired in parallel where the battery normally sits but they reckon the small batteries dont last long (starter batteries) about 12 months, but they get drained a lot and then recharged all the time in police work.
I have conceded to putting the aux in a case the tub which is ok because the stereo amps are behind the back seat so it wont be far to run cable, except for the cable from the starter battery to the aux.
I'll be using a Start Smart System which only charges the aux once the main is fully charged and also a button that allows both batteries to start the engine if power is low on the main.
My auto elecky has calculated that I'll need a 110A/H deep cycle to run the amps and other stuff out the back so I may need to uprate the output on the alternator too..
My main is an N70, that powers the winch and spotties also.
I have conceded to putting the aux in a case the tub which is ok because the stereo amps are behind the back seat so it wont be far to run cable, except for the cable from the starter battery to the aux.
I'll be using a Start Smart System which only charges the aux once the main is fully charged and also a button that allows both batteries to start the engine if power is low on the main.
My auto elecky has calculated that I'll need a 110A/H deep cycle to run the amps and other stuff out the back so I may need to uprate the output on the alternator too..
My main is an N70, that powers the winch and spotties also.
Bordertrek 4X4 & Fabrication
0400 250 734 Bordertown SA
I love terra firma-the less firma the more terra
0400 250 734 Bordertown SA
I love terra firma-the less firma the more terra
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