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Moderator: Micka
It looks like a great and novel idea for high articulation tracks or rock crawling, . Dunno what all the twisting force going through one set of plates/leading arm will do.
The authorities are unlikely to allow it for registered cars.
Revolver shackles are banned in most states, even though they are like a fixed shackle when pinned.
I think maybe at speed if the pin fell out it could cause interesting steering, as the effective length of the arm would change if it oscillated up and down, causing the axle to move back and forward on one side only.
What is also novel is the great write up the guys did. AFAIK, no one has ever tried this before. Maybe there are some genuine new ideas left.
Regards Philip A
The authorities are unlikely to allow it for registered cars.
Revolver shackles are banned in most states, even though they are like a fixed shackle when pinned.
I think maybe at speed if the pin fell out it could cause interesting steering, as the effective length of the arm would change if it oscillated up and down, causing the axle to move back and forward on one side only.
What is also novel is the great write up the guys did. AFAIK, no one has ever tried this before. Maybe there are some genuine new ideas left.
Regards Philip A
in theory its a three link with the third link on the drivers side meeting at the same point on the chassis (IN THEORY).
This givving you rediculously high amount of anti-dive on the driver side.
If you were descending and you pass front tyre went in a hole the braking force (if you were to apply abit) alone would be more than enough to pick up the drivers side rear wheel after it pushes up on the chassis from the front link.
I think these hinged arms are great for level crawling and slow speed 4wding but anything that may involve large decents that need apply little braking (yes sumtimes you have to brake) or hard cornering to the right while braking could be quiet traggic.
If i was to do this i would leave it in all the time and only unpin it if i found i couldnt do a certain section with out it, then id pin it straight back up again.
Cheers
Anthony
This givving you rediculously high amount of anti-dive on the driver side.
If you were descending and you pass front tyre went in a hole the braking force (if you were to apply abit) alone would be more than enough to pick up the drivers side rear wheel after it pushes up on the chassis from the front link.
I think these hinged arms are great for level crawling and slow speed 4wding but anything that may involve large decents that need apply little braking (yes sumtimes you have to brake) or hard cornering to the right while braking could be quiet traggic.
If i was to do this i would leave it in all the time and only unpin it if i found i couldnt do a certain section with out it, then id pin it straight back up again.
Cheers
Anthony
yeah id reccomend reinforcing the plates.Philip A wrote: Dunno what all the twisting force going through one set of plates/leading arm will do.
this would be very badPhilip A wrote:
I think maybe at speed if the pin fell out it could cause interesting steering, as the effective length of the arm would change if it oscillated up and down, causing the axle to move back and forward on one side only.
I posted on 4wd monthly sum time ago that another conern with the one side of the diff wanting to move back or forth abit more would be bad in a situation where your at full droop on the pass side and it come into contact with a large rock step, the forces would be rather large and id be very worried about the diff bein pushed back and maybe bending....
Also as the wheel tries to climg the step it twist the links or the diff as more and more force would be apllied againts the front and twisting.... All this concentrated at on point one the diff and one point on the chassis could become a problem....
It may never bee a drama and i might be thinking too much into it but its sumething to ponder.
edit: i just read that though myself, and fark i need to learn proper engrish
panhard rod wont really limit shit and yes the prop shaft might help but its on the drivers side and the amount of slip in it will not help hold the diff in place much if at all.Loanrangie wrote:Wouldnt the panhard rod and prop shaft prevent or limit the movement of the diff ? it would only allow it tilt forward and back ,i cant see any advantages ?
A friend of mine has run one of these for at least the last five years. you can just see it on the front left.
Had some problems with bushes and bearing flogging out but got it sorted and it is very reliable. You do need to reconnect the pin for any high speed driving.
Had some problems with bushes and bearing flogging out but got it sorted and it is very reliable. You do need to reconnect the pin for any high speed driving.
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John D
Defender 110 2.4
Defender 110 2.4
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