Upper rear shock mounts

Post by **nicbeer** » Wed Jan 04, 2006 4:16 pm

Hey,

just wondering what people have done in regard to upper rear shock mounts.

I am moving the rear diff back approx 3". i am going to try reuse orig sping plates and flip them left to right so the shocks end up about 3-4" infront of the original mount.

thanks

nic

Post by **nicbeer** » Sat Jan 07, 2006 10:31 am

Any ideas? anyone got pics on how they replaced there tower or bar.

2" BL going under it if it helps

thanks

Post by **midnight** » Sat Jan 07, 2006 12:57 pm

Why not cut the towerbar out and get one of those bars that move the top mounts in, weld it further back, then put your shocks back on.

Or is the fuel tank in the road?

Post by **nicbeer** » Sat Jan 07, 2006 1:08 pm

I am aiming to leave the orig bar in so i can return it to stock if needed for the pits.

Looking at doing 2"box across the rails and bolted and tacked onto plates either side.

Nic

Post by **SiKiD_01** » Sat Jan 07, 2006 3:25 pm

you should just get some angle and bolt that up to the original shock mounts. that way you can have the upper shock mount where ever you want them.

to return to nornmal, unbolt the angle and presto.

Post by **SiKiD_01** » Sat Jan 07, 2006 4:10 pm

here it is, off the http://www.sky-manufacturing.com website.

The rear upper shock mount allows the customer the choice of 3 positions of shock placement, giving anyone the position they will need. 100% bolt on, laser cut, perfect for SPOA vehicles needing longer shocks to maximize travel.

Part # SUZ-RSM-01
Price - $45.00

Post by **nicbeer** » Sat Jan 07, 2006 4:20 pm

was going to go that way but my shock mounts are further out so have to fab something up.

was just seeing where other people do with the shock mounts when they move the rear diff back.

cheers

Post by **tonks** » Thu Mar 16, 2006 7:47 pm

Maybe try somehting like this, but at the rear

Post by **largesuzy** » Thu Mar 16, 2006 10:41 pm

just put ur shocks on an angle like this/ \ (allows u to run longer shocks also) and make up a cutom tube mount bar that runs from chassis rail to chassis rail then just put bolts into it to match the shock eye location ill find a pic later

Post by **Bad JuJu** » Fri Mar 17, 2006 6:16 am

Somthing like this may work... It will give you tha ability to run layover shocks if you want and have them much longer for more articulation ( depending on other factors of course). It just depends where you drill the new mounting holes.

http://www.spidertrax.com/s.nl/sc.2/cat ... id.1245/.f

Post by **sierrajim** » Fri Mar 17, 2006 10:23 am

tonks wrote:Maybe try somehting like this, but at the rear

Shock hoops on the rear of a hard top would be difficult as space is limited.

The plate that bolts to the original shock mounts is OK, however the further you move the shocks away from the original mounts (with one of these brackets) the more leverage you place on the factory crossmember.

Post by **nicbeer** » Fri Mar 17, 2006 11:29 am

This ones been dragged out again.

I was thinking about setting up a bit of 75mm box onto the orig mounts and possible running a bolt upwards through the floor onto a steel spreading plate iniside.

would this work?

I will try get some pics of where they are going when i get back from adelaide.

Nic

Post by **sierrajim** » Fri Mar 17, 2006 12:04 pm

the cabin is rubber mounted, therefore it does move independantly to the chassis. Mounting to both will cause something crack.

Post by **NIK** » Mon Mar 20, 2006 4:57 pm

Sought of on topic, I have a lwb with toy diffs. How have people set up the rear shocks so you can still run the handbrake on the rear, I want to get rid of the transfer mounted hand brake.
Thanks Nik

Post by **lay80n** » Mon Mar 20, 2006 6:01 pm

NIK wrote:Sought of on topic, I have a lwb with toy diffs. How have people set up the rear shocks so you can still run the handbrake on the rear, I want to get rid of the transfer mounted hand brake.
Thanks Nik

Pretty sure that RBZOOK has his handbrake working from the rear wheels, but being coiled i dunno if the way he set his up will work for leafies.
Layto....

Post by **nicbeer** » Mon Mar 20, 2006 6:42 pm

sierrajim wrote:the cabin is rubber mounted, therefore it does move independantly to the chassis. Mounting to both will cause something crack.

Makes sense to me. Forgot about that. I am probably putting 2" BL in and also / \.

Could i also look at doing a bolt in with J brackets ? to bolt around the chassis and brace to the original mount.

Nic

Post by **markil** » Mon Mar 20, 2006 7:46 pm

nicbeer wrote: I was thinking about setting up a bit of 75mm box onto the orig mounts and possible running a bolt upwards through the floor onto a steel spreading plate iniside.

would this work?

Nic

I have done something similar to this in my car. I'll get some pics of it in daylight tomorrow.

Mark.

Post by **built4thrashing** » Mon Mar 20, 2006 7:46 pm

ive moved mine inward about 100mm each by using a bit of 50mm box drilled and mounted to existing bolts. i measured where new upper mounts will go then took box section out and did a bit of cutting. (see pic)
make sure you half moon the bit around the bolt hole so it wont bind on flex. been in for 18 months with out a problem.

i used triton rear shocks. but could use longer ones as they are a long way off fully compressed.

Post by **markil** » Tue Mar 21, 2006 5:42 pm

A few pics of my setup.

Mark.

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Upper rear shock mounts

Upper rear shock mounts

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