Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user. If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
seen same thing on a nissan they stoped it by having a bracket thats bolts to the panhard bracket and to the side of the chassis to stop it from flexing on hard use.
UDM, I thought I'd have a quick squiz at mine after I saw your photo, and strike me lucky, guess who also has a cracked chassis in exactly the same spot??
UDM, I thought I'd have a quick squiz at mine after I saw your photo, and strike me lucky, guess who also has a cracked chassis in exactly the same spot??
I new of this problem when building my 80UTE years ago as i had repaired a few lifted 80's. The panard mount is made up of 2 pieces and where they join on the chassis the bracket isnt welded to the chassis or either are the 2 parts of the bracket. I fully welded all connection/intersections and have not had a problem here and on repairs i have done. An other area where problems can start is on the steering box bolts, there are crush tubes on each of the 4 bolts that hold the steering box to the chassis these protrude on the inside of the chassis rail 10-15mm and the nut tightens up on the tube. Each tube is held in place with 2 small stitch welds on either side of the tube, with flexing of the chassis and big tyre loads these stitch weld fail/crack and the crack will keep traveling along the rail. I have full welded the end of the crush tubes to the inner rail and have not had any problems here either. When repairing the rails i use a rotary high speed grinder with a 1/4 " ball end rotary carbide burr and follow the crack to the end and slighly past the end of the crack. I grind it out about 2.0mm deep as the chassis is only 3.0mm thick so you dont want it too thin and blow a hole through when welding. I do a single pass with the mig and leave all weld material for good reinforcement. If your not a good welder clean it up to neaten but dont grind back to flush. When welding on the underside gravity works against you so dont let it get too hot and end up with a big hole. This type of repair is better if attemped by a good welder b/maker to ensure it done well as most of the welding is done out of good welding position .
Wally
THERES ONLY ONE SUBSTITUTE FOR CUBES AND THATS MORE and if you want more inchs stroke it !!!!!!!!!!!
80UTE wrote:I new of this problem when building my 80UTE years ago as i had repaired a few lifted 80's. The panard mount is made up of 2 pieces and where they join on the chassis the bracket isnt welded to the chassis or either are the 2 parts of the bracket. I fully welded all connection/intersections and have not had a problem here and on repairs i have done. An other area where problems can start is on the steering box bolts, there are crush tubes on each of the 4 bolts that hold the steering box to the chassis these protrude on the inside of the chassis rail 10-15mm and the nut tightens up on the tube. Each tube is held in place with 2 small stitch welds on either side of the tube, with flexing of the chassis and big tyre loads these stitch weld fail/crack and the crack will keep traveling along the rail. I have full welded the end of the crush tubes to the inner rail and have not had any problems here either. When repairing the rails i use a rotary high speed grinder with a 1/4 " ball end rotary carbide burr and follow the crack to the end and slighly past the end of the crack. I grind it out about 2.0mm deep as the chassis is only 3.0mm thick so you dont want it too thin and blow a hole through when welding. I do a single pass with the mig and leave all weld material for good reinforcement. If your not a good welder clean it up to neaten but dont grind back to flush. When welding on the underside gravity works against you so dont let it get too hot and end up with a big hole. This type of repair is better if attemped by a good welder b/maker to ensure it done well as most of the welding is done out of good welding position .
Wally
Great post with good advice. would be worth making a bible of chassis damage/cracks etc on all rigs?
great stuff, example of how valuable forums can be
quick question, should the plate be filled behind prior to welding? like sikaflex or something to stop water collecting/rust? I really have no idea, just asking...
I have a chassis crack on a Disco 2 to repair shortly, apparently a common problem on some early ones, from underneath and in front of the steering box, next to the panhard rod support. This one is bad and has already been repaired once. This time some plates will have to be made and the steering box removed. I've also heard of some LR warranty claims involving this problem, a really bad one got a new chassis apparently!!
The problem comes from the fact that the early disco2 up to 2000 had some stupid SQUARE holes stamped out of the underside of the chassis in this area, about 10mm square. Presumably to take a nylon nut for self tapping screws or similar. The cracks started in the corners and worked their way around...
Wish me luck with the mig...
JC
'92 Rangie Sherwood/turbo intercooled isuzu4BD1 /ACE/ full leather/2.5" exh/2.5" body lift/DeCarbon shocks/LR tanks/LT95 back in and OK now, Sals conversion soon...
I have a chassis crack on a Disco 2 to repair shortly, apparently a common problem on some early ones, from underneath and in front of the steering box, next to the panhard rod support. This one is bad and has already been repaired once. This time some plates will have to be made and the steering box removed. I've also heard of some LR warranty claims involving this problem, a really bad one got a new chassis apparently!!
The problem comes from the fact that the early disco2 up to 2000 had some stupid SQUARE holes stamped out of the underside of the chassis in this area, about 10mm square. Presumably to take a nylon nut for self tapping screws or similar. The cracks started in the corners and worked their way around...
Wish me luck with the mig...
JC
'92 Rangie Sherwood/turbo intercooled isuzu4BD1 /ACE/ full leather/2.5" exh/2.5" body lift/DeCarbon shocks/LR tanks/LT95 back in and OK now, Sals conversion soon...
grazza wrote:should the plate be filled behind prior to welding? like sikaflex or something to stop water collecting/rust?
The welding has covered every angle of the plates, and we painted it with a very very thick 2pack epoxy kinda stuff that really did seal everything, and its hard as, wont get scratched anytime soon
PS, now I know where the death wobbles came from... chassis flexing. Everything feels so tight now.
Ulises
Last edited by udm on Mon Apr 24, 2006 9:41 pm, edited 1 time in total.
justinC wrote:I have a chassis crack on a Disco 2 to repair shortly, apparently a common problem on some early ones, from underneath and in front of the steering box, next to the panhard rod support. This one is bad and has already been repaired once. This time some plates will have to be made and the steering box removed. I've also heard of some LR warranty claims involving this problem, a really bad one got a new chassis apparently!!
The problem comes from the fact that the early disco2 up to 2000 had some stupid SQUARE holes stamped out of the underside of the chassis in this area, about 10mm square. Presumably to take a nylon nut for self tapping screws or similar. The cracks started in the corners and worked their way around...
Wish me luck with the mig...
JC
We do wish you luck mate, the job really was a pain in the butt. But hey, we did 2 cars in 2 days, you should be done in only 1 day
as ben has suggested it's bad to weld perpendicular to the chassis - it can create a heat affected zone next to the weld which is either soft or brittle, and can cause or contribute to future cracking. when I repair these I cut a 40mm circular hole near the front of the plate and do half a plug weld - weld across the top and bottom of the hole. at the back of the outer plate I make the weld over the top of the suspension mount weld that is already there. at the back I do like wally and finish the welds areound the crush sleeves but otherwise generally leave it alone. did DX80's one recently, he can post a pic if he wants.
Thanks, but too late now for advice ... anyway, we wrapped/boxed the chassis all around (sides, top, bottom) with 6mm plates, the 4 tubes were welded properly to both side plates.
The 4 tubes and the top and bottom plates won't allow the side plates to flex.
Im not worried at all about the job we have done... but if something happens... we will just fix it.
Ulises
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
Last edited by udm on Tue Apr 25, 2006 5:15 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Did you only plate 1 side of the rail? What about the other side of the rail?, and the top? and the bottom? Cause one of our cars was cracked on the steer/box side and the other one was cracked on the panhard mount side, hence the boxing of the whole rail.
Did you only plate 1 side of the rail? What about the other side of the rail?, and the top? and the bottom? Cause one of our cars was cracked on the steer/box side and the other one was cracked on the panhard mount side, hence the boxing of the whole rail.
yes only the outside, the cracks weren't that bad. The chassis needs to be able to twist and bend - it's not perfectly regid, so unless the cracking is severe (ie the front is about to fall off) then it's not sucha great idea to go all the way around.
PS. When are we gonna turbo the 1hz?
I thought you bought a full kit from a 1HD-T to bolt on? no time now anyway, I got a proper job :(
, it's right in between the steerbox and the panhard bracket.
.... yeh, we found out that the other car had the same problem 
HYPOFAB 