Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
Stripped Thread on Fan clutch retaining nuts
Moderators: toaddog, Elmo, DUDELUX
Stripped Thread on Fan clutch retaining nuts
Yesterday evening I tried to pull the fan clutch off the 80 series to put some new silicone oil in.
I didn't have much luck, what is the secret to getting these bloody nuts off???
It looks as though someone had a go at this before with one of the nuts threads stripped already - I managed to stuff another one as well.
The only nut I could get any leverage on wasn't coming off in a hurry - I just kept spinning the belts.
Tips please!
I didn't have much luck, what is the secret to getting these bloody nuts off???
It looks as though someone had a go at this before with one of the nuts threads stripped already - I managed to stuff another one as well.
The only nut I could get any leverage on wasn't coming off in a hurry - I just kept spinning the belts.
Tips please!
Its hard to explain without showing you in person, but what you do is grab a decent screwdriver and stick it between 2 nuts so that when your turning the spanner on the 3rd or 4th one it holds the water pump still.
Nip them off one by one until the are all finger loose, then just wind them off with your fingers,
Nip them off one by one until the are all finger loose, then just wind them off with your fingers,
\m/
Thats the way to do it... and you need a decent spanner that won't strip the bolts. We used a sidchrome 12mm spanner which was new and it made the job so easy.Gribble wrote:Its hard to explain without showing you in person, but what you do is grab a decent screwdriver and stick it between 2 nuts so that when your turning the spanner on the 3rd or 4th one it holds the water pump still.
Nip them off one by one until the are all finger loose, then just wind them off with your fingers,
I'd like to know how you replace that silicone oil ??????
I changed the fan clutch ages ago for a new one.
Shut Up, Get Out, & Start Digging...
I was attempting to take the fan clutch off the 80 series yesterday afternoon - I'm not sure I fully understood what you guys were saying but I managed to get 2 of the nuts off before I accidentally lent on the small hose coming out of the top of the radiator - SNAP!
Cheap bloody plastic! The wife was going to kill me if she couldn't drive to work the next morning so I siliconed it up. Only leaked a very small amount this morning.
Now how do I fix this properly? Do I have to replace the whole top plastic piece?
I was thinking about getting a new radiator anyway - might just be easier to do that!
And how do I get the other 2 nuts off that have the threads stripped?
Do I do what skooting suggested?
Cheap bloody plastic! The wife was going to kill me if she couldn't drive to work the next morning so I siliconed it up. Only leaked a very small amount this morning.
Now how do I fix this properly? Do I have to replace the whole top plastic piece?
I was thinking about getting a new radiator anyway - might just be easier to do that!
And how do I get the other 2 nuts off that have the threads stripped?
Do I do what skooting suggested?
If you really cant get them off sucessfully, use multigrips and then replace the nuts with new ones of same size/thread.
About the radiator... no idea... temporary solution would be something strong like epoxy resin (the 2 part stuff). But I wouldn't leave it too long as you risk engine damage. Most likely you'll need a new top tank. New radiator would be more expensive but the metal ones are fantastic. No failures due to O-ring leaks etc.
About the radiator... no idea... temporary solution would be something strong like epoxy resin (the 2 part stuff). But I wouldn't leave it too long as you risk engine damage. Most likely you'll need a new top tank. New radiator would be more expensive but the metal ones are fantastic. No failures due to O-ring leaks etc.
Shut Up, Get Out, & Start Digging...
I bought some new nuts yesterday - I figured it would be easier to replace them.
I had a go with multi grips but didn't get too far, I'll have to get someone a bit stronger than I am to have a go at it.
If I get a new top tank and then proceed to snap the bloody thing again I would kick myself. I'll have to see how much a new radiator is.
Cranky on 4wd monthly said that this hose has been blocked off since he had the 80 and has no effect on the engine. Is it just a heater hose? Would it cause any damage by blocking it off?
I had a go with multi grips but didn't get too far, I'll have to get someone a bit stronger than I am to have a go at it.
If I get a new top tank and then proceed to snap the bloody thing again I would kick myself. I'll have to see how much a new radiator is.
Cranky on 4wd monthly said that this hose has been blocked off since he had the 80 and has no effect on the engine. Is it just a heater hose? Would it cause any damage by blocking it off?
Toy80Diesel wrote:
Thats the way to do it... and you need a decent spanner that won't strip the bolts. We used a sidchrome 12mm spanner which was new and it made the job so easy.
I'd like to know how you replace that silicone oil ??????
I changed the fan clutch ages ago for a new one.
Price for a new fan clutch is a bit exy so I thought I'd try new silicone oil in the old one first.
There is a small walk through with pictures somewhere on the WWW. I think it was on a BJ40 but should be almost exactly the same.
I'll have to do a search and see if I can find it for you.
crosswire wrote: Price for a new fan clutch is a bit exy so I thought I'd try new silicone oil in the old one first.
There is a small walk through with pictures somewhere on the WWW. I think it was on a BJ40 but should be almost exactly the same.
I'll have to do a search and see if I can find it for you.
No worries buddy, I've replaced the whole clutch ages ago so I wont be needing it but maybe someone else may need it.
As for that little hose at the top. My diesel doesn't use it so I blocked it off. Old radiator didn't have it, but this one must be a universal type for both petrols and diesels. For this reason I'm not sure of its purpose, but you could probably use a T piece on one of the other water hoses to continue its use. It maybe for the auto choke? Make sure if you do its a hose on the running side of the heater core, not the tap controlled side. Then you can block it off at the radiator.
Shut Up, Get Out, & Start Digging...
Repco aftermarket, I think its a davies craig or equivalent.crosswire wrote:Out of interest, how much did you pay for the clutch? Aftermarket or genuine?
Has slightly larger cooling fins too, dunno if that helps or whatever its for.
Was about $120 from memory, but don't quote me as it was around 4 years ago now.
They call it a viscous coupling.
Shut Up, Get Out, & Start Digging...
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 2 guests