Or do I just adjust it to where I feel comfortable?
Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
GQ Clutch Adjustment
GQ Clutch Adjustment
I'm about to adjust the clutch pedal height as I feel mine is engaging too close to the floor (like millimetres off the floor). Is there a factory spec of how far from the floor the clutch should begin to engage? If not, what are people's thoughts / experiences.
Or do I just adjust it to where I feel comfortable?
Or do I just adjust it to where I feel comfortable?
Yeah - new clutch. Exedy safari heavy duty one 
the old one was STUFFED big time. Me and a mate changed it even after the warnings on here not to.... (some people just can't be taught... 
) Prick of a job, but not so bad when forewarned / prepared. The extra dosh I saved by doing it myself allowed me to put the Exedy in instead of a standard clutch.
Everything bled and fine. (probably should have said this in my original post...
)
My wife's Astra starts engaging half way out, and I'm inclined to do this to mine, but just wanted confirmation of either specs, or a general consensus on position. I guess there is a point of "too far" where the clutch doesn't fully engage properly and then having constant pressure on the thrust bearing.
Cheers!
the old one was STUFFED big time. Me and a mate changed it even after the warnings on here not to.... (some people just can't be taught... ) Prick of a job, but not so bad when forewarned / prepared. The extra dosh I saved by doing it myself allowed me to put the Exedy in instead of a standard clutch.Everything bled and fine. (probably should have said this in my original post...
)My wife's Astra starts engaging half way out, and I'm inclined to do this to mine, but just wanted confirmation of either specs, or a general consensus on position. I guess there is a point of "too far" where the clutch doesn't fully engage properly and then having constant pressure on the thrust bearing.
Cheers!
yeah I bled it all. (had to replace the slave cylinder about 12 months ago and learnt the bleeding locations / techniques then... )
The clutch works great - just the pedal height needs to be reset with the adjustment on the top of the pedal. To give you an idea, before replacing the clutch, the engagement point was about an inch from the top.
)The clutch works great - just the pedal height needs to be reset with the adjustment on the top of the pedal. To give you an idea, before replacing the clutch, the engagement point was about an inch from the top.
same
this adjustment problem is the same as i had when i fitted a new clutch to my patrol after about 10,000 kms the pedal height comes up a bit by itself and you get used to it, it was just so high to start with because the clutch was stuffed.
see ya mav
dont tyell me i got to spend for a new clutch ? im about 1inch to 1 1/2 from the top really cant aford to replace just now ,
after dropping for rego $500 , new master and slave clutch $230 , now i got to drop $600 for the tafe
as an apprentice i have a shit pay, whats the cheapest way to getting a new clutch? and how easy is it to do on your own in a weekend????
after dropping for rego $500 , new master and slave clutch $230 , now i got to drop $600 for the tafe
as an apprentice i have a shit pay, whats the cheapest way to getting a new clutch? and how easy is it to do on your own in a weekend????
1995 land rover disco on 265 muddies
MatthewK: Not sure where you are in Melbourne, but I found East Coast Auto Spares in East Bentleigh the best price locally by far. Remembering mines a TD42, around $350 for a standard - I paid $525 (from memory) for the Exedy. Plus gear oil ($60 for gear and transfer) etc. Petrol ones seem to be cheaper.
You might want to check whether your problem is really that the clutch is worn, or whether it's an adjustment thing - especially given that you have just replaced the master and slave cylinders. There is a pedal height adjustment on the top of the pedal which adjusts the way which the pedal interacts with the master cylinder (thus engagement point). If your clutch is not slipping, then don't worry - yet. The first signs mine gave was that the clutch slipped a little when changing from 3rd to 4th. I probably got 6 weeks out of it from then until I replaced it (mostly city driving). By the time I replaced it, I could make it slip easily in any gear. Obviously this time frame would change on driving style, turbo, terrain, etc, etc, etc...
Changing it yourself is a bitch. The gearbox / transfer is HEAVY. A post here a while back suggested around 180Kg - and trust me, it was close.
I used an engine crane to support the gear box through the tunnel to lower and raise. Even then it took 2 of use to realign and reassemble. I doubt that I could have realigned the gearbox by myself. I took the opportunity to replace the rear oil seal ($35 - not required, but didn't want to tempt Murphy...). Also replaced the spigot bush (about $10) and glad I did - my old one came out in pieces.
I did it over 2 nights on a weekend. Probably took me around 10 - 12 hours all up. There are a couple of bolts at the back of the engine that are a real bastard to get at. Having done it once, I do question whether it may have been easier to remove the engine. Someone else may have an opinion on this.
Hope this helps. Feel free to PM me if you have any specific Q's.
Cheers,
You might want to check whether your problem is really that the clutch is worn, or whether it's an adjustment thing - especially given that you have just replaced the master and slave cylinders. There is a pedal height adjustment on the top of the pedal which adjusts the way which the pedal interacts with the master cylinder (thus engagement point). If your clutch is not slipping, then don't worry - yet. The first signs mine gave was that the clutch slipped a little when changing from 3rd to 4th. I probably got 6 weeks out of it from then until I replaced it (mostly city driving). By the time I replaced it, I could make it slip easily in any gear. Obviously this time frame would change on driving style, turbo, terrain, etc, etc, etc...
Changing it yourself is a bitch. The gearbox / transfer is HEAVY. A post here a while back suggested around 180Kg - and trust me, it was close.
I used an engine crane to support the gear box through the tunnel to lower and raise. Even then it took 2 of use to realign and reassemble. I doubt that I could have realigned the gearbox by myself. I took the opportunity to replace the rear oil seal ($35 - not required, but didn't want to tempt Murphy...). Also replaced the spigot bush (about $10) and glad I did - my old one came out in pieces.
I did it over 2 nights on a weekend. Probably took me around 10 - 12 hours all up. There are a couple of bolts at the back of the engine that are a real bastard to get at. Having done it once, I do question whether it may have been easier to remove the engine. Someone else may have an opinion on this.
Hope this helps. Feel free to PM me if you have any specific Q's.
Cheers,
its not slipping as yet , but when i did first buy the 4x4 it seem to slip in 4th with all that power from the TB42 i did how ever ajust the peddles and so fourth and has never slipped since ,
the peddal was at the right hieght of practically halfway even when before i changed the slave and master with alll the pumping of the clutch, but since changing it it move to within 1 -1 1/2 inchs from the top thats why it had me thinking,
i remember asking repco for prices 600 for standard and 800 for safari i told em stick it where the sun dont sine :
so i will ring the place in bentligh anyways just for pricing
the peddal was at the right hieght of practically halfway even when before i changed the slave and master with alll the pumping of the clutch, but since changing it it move to within 1 -1 1/2 inchs from the top thats why it had me thinking,
i remember asking repco for prices 600 for standard and 800 for safari i told em stick it where the sun dont sine :
so i will ring the place in bentligh anyways just for pricing
1995 land rover disco on 265 muddies
slipping
i just drovr mine until it started to slip, i guess to put off having to buy one and fit it. i did mine on my own with a trolly jack in the middle of the gearbox and transfer and a sizzor jack at each end to level the lot. don't forget you should have your flywheel machined or it will void any warrenty on the clutch kit.matthewK wrote:dont tyell me i got to spend for a new clutch ? im about 1inch to 1 1/2 from the top really cant aford to replace just now ,
after dropping for rego $500 , new master and slave clutch $230 , now i got to drop $600 for the tafe
as an apprentice i have a shit pay, whats the cheapest way to getting a new clutch? and how easy is it to do on your own in a weekend????
see ya mav
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 3 guests