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REAR CUTTING BRAKES
Moderators: toaddog, TWISTY, V8Patrol, Moderators
REAR CUTTING BRAKES
Okay if people saw Sam on the weekend they would have noticed how manouverable his rig was by disconected the rear drive.
As I can't disconnect the rear drive from the transfer I was thinking about running an air locker in the rear then modifying a line lock kit to work on the rear brakes individually thus allowing me to lock one rear wheel and then driv3e around it.
Has anyone tried theis or done similar if so did it work and how effective was it.
SAM
As I can't disconnect the rear drive from the transfer I was thinking about running an air locker in the rear then modifying a line lock kit to work on the rear brakes individually thus allowing me to lock one rear wheel and then driv3e around it.
Has anyone tried theis or done similar if so did it work and how effective was it.
SAM
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I used to play with this a bit when I had the d44s and normal rover transfer case but never in any competitions so I carnt really compare to how it works in my current setup.
I think it would work to some degree although the biggest concern is loading up the side gears in the rear diff cause with the one wheel locked the other is going to be going twice the speed as both front wheels. So I think it may cause problems that way.
I know that a few guys that run toyota transfers in the USA comps do this but they still want a total rear disconnect if they could get one so I guess that locking one back wheel isnt as good as locking both.
Sam
I think it would work to some degree although the biggest concern is loading up the side gears in the rear diff cause with the one wheel locked the other is going to be going twice the speed as both front wheels. So I think it may cause problems that way.
I know that a few guys that run toyota transfers in the USA comps do this but they still want a total rear disconnect if they could get one so I guess that locking one back wheel isnt as good as locking both.
Sam
In a lot of cases just locking one rear wheel the rig will still want to drive straight ahead on an arc as opposed to pivoting on the rear.
Even locking both rears mine sometime still wants to go straight ahead. Mine works best if I can jam one rear wheel behind a rock and then it pivots really well.
Sam
Even locking both rears mine sometime still wants to go straight ahead. Mine works best if I can jam one rear wheel behind a rock and then it pivots really well.
Sam
No i am sure Sam will tell!
Anyway its "LAST YEARS TECHNOLOGY"
It is only achievable on some T-cases!
The toyota case will not allow rear disconnect, However Advance adaptors hace made an adaptor to mate a Dana 300 to a toyota case!!!
Twin case and a Dana 300 can be set up to have REAR disconnect!!!
There are also other ways this can be obtained, but Sam will have to tell ya's about that!
Anyway its "LAST YEARS TECHNOLOGY"
It is only achievable on some T-cases!
The toyota case will not allow rear disconnect, However Advance adaptors hace made an adaptor to mate a Dana 300 to a toyota case!!!
Twin case and a Dana 300 can be set up to have REAR disconnect!!!
There are also other ways this can be obtained, but Sam will have to tell ya's about that!
a mate of mine done this(although he locked his from the wheels)
he could lock any of the 4 wheels as he pleased,4 huge levers in the cab)
ill have to ask him how its done(or more to the point,HOW IT WORKS).
he could lock any of the 4 wheels as he pleased,4 huge levers in the cab)
ill have to ask him how its done(or more to the point,HOW IT WORKS).
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moose wrote:ATLAS !!!
take ya pick ......
4WD , hi or low ...
2WD , hi or low , FRONT or REAR !!!!!!
Mine works the same as this except my transfer is an NP205. Mines out of an F truck probably from the 1970s to 1985 (guessing here). All I did id modified the shift rails to get twinsticks which lest me get front wheel only drive. The NP205 is a massively strong transfer case but the downside to it is the anemic 1.96:1 low range ratio.
As POS said you can do the same to the dana300 also works with the dana 18 I think and probably the dana 20 as well.
Sam
For a toyota application, a similar effect could be achieved via a line lock on the rear brakes and freewheeling hubs on the rear full float axle. Hilux have semifloats you say - check out what Bubs is trying. Or just order the kit from Front Range Offroad in the states. To make it more user friendly, I'm sure ADD hubs could be added to control the disconnect from inside the cab. A bit of dicking around but if you think it's a "must have" then it's probably possible.
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ausyota wrote:Its not the hubs that disconect in the ADD system. The ADD hubs are driving all the time the ADD just discontects one axle with a splined sleeve.
That's correct (Auto Disconnecting Differential), and the diff housing needs to be modified to accept the actuator, drive still goes to one axle (usually short side in a front diff). Usually the auto disconnect hubs are pretty weak (comparatively speaking) anyway.
Area54 wrote:ausyota wrote:Its not the hubs that disconect in the ADD system. The ADD hubs are driving all the time the ADD just discontects one axle with a splined sleeve.
That's correct (Auto Disconnecting Differential), and the diff housing needs to be modified to accept the actuator, drive still goes to one axle (usually short side in a front diff). Usually the auto disconnect hubs are pretty weak (comparatively speaking) anyway.
Righto - just use standard manual hubs and get your spotter to get out and do the dirty work.
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NICK wrote:moose wrote:ATLAS !!!
take ya pick ......
4WD , hi or low ...
2WD , hi or low , FRONT or REAR !!!!!!
i should have this buy the end of next week using hilux cases, oooohh and a set of mog axles eh sam
NICK
the hilux transfer case WILL NOT disconnect the rear wheels. Apprently a lot of guys have tried including Marlin. So I would not only be curious to see it work, but I would pay to get mine converted!
hands and mums dont count!!!
we ,ve done the dual rear brake thing,vws mianly we run it on the zook,
helped win a couple of mud runs, for the zook we just made a dual handbrake lever with removable extensions to give the extra leverage ,
hard part is keaping the brakes in decent enough condition,mud, out of adjustment ect. It reduced the turning circle quiet well .
To do it proply you need disks and an extra caliper on each side,
You can get hydraulic hand brake setups from revolution race gear,
Suprisingly we had a play with the setup on a ramp, in two wheel drive front on ramp, we could lock the the unloaded wheel and drive with it in the air up the ramp,
But drums are a pian go the discs or forget it,The brits swear by these things for there trials buggys.they call them fiddle brakes.
Larry.
helped win a couple of mud runs, for the zook we just made a dual handbrake lever with removable extensions to give the extra leverage ,
hard part is keaping the brakes in decent enough condition,mud, out of adjustment ect. It reduced the turning circle quiet well .
To do it proply you need disks and an extra caliper on each side,
You can get hydraulic hand brake setups from revolution race gear,
Suprisingly we had a play with the setup on a ramp, in two wheel drive front on ramp, we could lock the the unloaded wheel and drive with it in the air up the ramp,
But drums are a pian go the discs or forget it,The brits swear by these things for there trials buggys.they call them fiddle brakes.
Larry.
Area54 wrote:Depending on the weight of the rig, what about a fultime case (80, rangie, pajero etc) with unlocked centre diff. Would allow differentiation between the front and rear.
yes it would work, and in a similar fashion, the problem is it loads up the centre diff an AWFUL lot and soon you would be up for a new case!
hands and mums dont count!!!
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