Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
welding diff housing-diff protector-
Moderators: toaddog, TWISTY, V8Patrol, Moderators
welding diff housing-diff protector-
what lengths do i need to go to to weld on steel to protect the diff pumpkins.remove centres,axles etc.can i just weld as is with oil and change oils afterward.
you can weld it as it is, just be careful not to put bucket loads of heat into it as it may warp the housing. i would drain the oil before you start cause there is only one thing worse than the smell of old diff oil, and that is burning diff oil.
i cant see it damaging the centre or axles. it should be fine.
cheers joel
i cant see it damaging the centre or axles. it should be fine.
cheers joel
http://www.fourbys.com.au/
In actual fact you may be better off leaving the oil in as a thin film of oil will catch fire much quicker than something submerged in oil. You can then drain the oil afterwards.cutzook wrote:you can weld it as it is, just be careful not to put bucket loads of heat into it as it may warp the housing. i would drain the oil before you start cause there is only one thing worse than the smell of old diff oil, and that is burning diff oil.
i cant see it damaging the centre or axles. it should be fine.
cheers joel
Regards Andrew.
We are Tig welders, gravity doesn't worry us.
[img]http://www.studmonkeyracing.com/forums/smilies/weld.gif[/img]
[img]http://www.studmonkeyracing.com/forums/smilies/weld.gif[/img]
you do want enough penitration good enough so when you do hit it it dosent ripp off first go,have a bukect of water near by with rag so when you put your bead down you can cool it off fast with the old rag into the water then onto the weld,
afterward i would change the oil probly been sitting there a while anyways
afterward i would change the oil probly been sitting there a while anyways
1995 land rover disco on 265 muddies
I just welded my half pipe caps on with 3x red hot 15mm welds, 1 each end then 1 at the bottom, then let it cool slowly. I then ran 2 more red hot welds 15mm long between the other welds and let it cool a bit, then more red hot welds between the others and let it cool and just keeped doing that. If u dont get nice red hot welds they arnt going to be strong enough and cooling them down straight away will make them, brittle i think?
Shane
im no guru, but i thought cooling a weld quikly was the worst thing you could do???matthewK wrote:you do want enough penitration good enough so when you do hit it it dosent ripp off first go,have a bukect of water near by with rag so when you put your bead down you can cool it off fast with the old rag into the water then onto the weld,
afterward i would change the oil probly been sitting there a while anyways
just weld it with oil in there as it help keep it cool
i wouldnt even drain and replace the oil afterwards
and dont cool it as itll weaken and make it warp more then letting it cool naturally
i wouldnt even drain and replace the oil afterwards
and dont cool it as itll weaken and make it warp more then letting it cool naturally
Team UNDERDOG #233
WERock Australia thanks to
[url]http://www.longfieldsuperaxles.com[/url]
[url]http://www.rockbuggysupply.com[/url]
WERock Australia thanks to
[url]http://www.longfieldsuperaxles.com[/url]
[url]http://www.rockbuggysupply.com[/url]
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 5 guests