Frame Welding Tricks?

[TLCOR]

Hi,

I'm doing a "little" welding on the rear part of my Stage One-frame, mainly repairing the usual rust, but maybe strengthening it too?

Question is, how are you guys proceeding when welding on frames? Do I have to unbolt the whole body, or can I lift it in the rear and let the front be torqued down somehow? Do I have to remove the body at all? Keep in mind I have to do this outside, with very little tools.

Suggestions?

Thanks!

[ISUZUROVER]

Unless I have to weld to the top of the chassis (e.g. to replace the whole rear crossmember), then I never remove the body. There is plenty of room on the side and underneath sections to get the welder/grinder in.

[TLCOR]

Which crossmember are you refering to?

I'm seriously thinking about chopping off the rear part (behind the 3rd body-mountd?), and make my own (box tube?) frame from there. Any experience with this? Opinions? Should I just peice it together?

[b_mac]

You can buy whats called a quarter chassis which is the rear x member (that the tow bar and body bolt too) plus about 12 inches or so of chassis rail.

This can be replaced with the body in place by cutting access holes ( do it neatly and no one will notice ) in the floor above the join.

Available from all good Landy shops.

Or you can just weld a bit of plate over the rusted x member like the dodgy brothers do.

The main precaution when welding the chassis with an arc or mig welder is to disconnect the alternator ( and the battery ) so its delicate bits don't get electrocuted

Also make sure you have a good fire extinguisher handy.

Bruce.

[ISUZUROVER]

Which crossmember are you refering to?

I'm seriously thinking about chopping off the rear part (behind the 3rd body-mountd?), and make my own (box tube?) frame from there. Any experience with this? Opinions? Should I just peice it together?

The rear crossmember is the one right at the back (doubles as a bumper bar) that usually rusts away. I have seen plenty of improved home made versions, including some lower profile ones to improve ground clearance. I modified mine to strengthen it and improve clearance slightly, but it will be replaced by a "lower profile" crosmember one day. If you want to do a major job like this properly though, it would be best to either remove the rear tub or at least unbolt it and lift it so it is out of the way.

[TLCOR]

I don't think the bumper/crossmember itself is much rusted, rather the framerails all the way down to the front spring-perches. I'm a little unsure about what to do back there - peice together strock frame? New box-tube frame within stock specs? New, lighter round-tube frame? I'm guessing having everything to line up correctly is hard when having the old frame cut off?

Pics with ideas would definatevely get my mind flowing!

Yeah, battery and alternator are unhooked. But I'm not really sure if it's a myth or not, discussed the exact same thing a couple of days ago, and didn’t get any smarter. Oh well, it sure doesn’t harm to disconnect them.

Thanks for the input.

[walker]

The main precaution when welding the chassis with an arc or mig welder is to disconnect the alternator ( and the battery ) so its delicate bits don't get electrocuted

I did not know there were any delicate bits on a Stage 1.

[ISUZUROVER]

The main precaution when welding the chassis with an arc or mig welder is to disconnect the alternator ( and the battery ) so its delicate bits don't get electrocuted

I did not know there were any delicate bits on a Stage 1.

With lucas electrics the odd surge from the welder would probably help

I know I have forgotten to disconnect the battery a few times when welding on the IIA and everything was fine, but usually the welding is well away from the batery/alternator so it shouldn't be affected. But it is always a good idea to disconnect it anyway.

TCLOR, sounds like you have pretty major rust. In OZ, once the rails rust out, people generally find a better chassis and swap it over. There is no reason you can't weld new rails on though, but make sure to plate each join well. FOr such major surgery I would definitely remove the body.

Maybe now is the time to upgrade to a military chassis for the extra lift, just swap over the engine mounts and front crossmember from your old one.

[TLCOR]

No frame swap for me, thank you.

I would like to see some pics of what people have done to their crossmember for less overhang, I haven't had any luck finding anything.

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