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61/80 series light upgrades
Moderators: toaddog, Elmo, DUDELUX
61/80 series light upgrades
Ive got a hj60 (89 with 4xrectangular lights) and have been looking at putting in H4+H1 replacement lenses and putting in some 100w/50w H4's + 100w H1's(highbeam). Narva Hella IPF all have kits etc aswell as other brands aswell. Cheapest ive seen is a kit i cant think of the brand now but they are $89 at autobarn. ($89 for hi/low pair, $89 for hi pair)
Will 100watt halogen globes get too hot inside there?
I will build some new looms while im at it so the current draw isnt a problem, but i have read in places that toyota do wierd things with thier light system, something about needing circuit completer?
Has anyone with a 61 or 80series done the upgrade?
Will 100watt halogen globes get too hot inside there?
I will build some new looms while im at it so the current draw isnt a problem, but i have read in places that toyota do wierd things with thier light system, something about needing circuit completer?
Has anyone with a 61 or 80series done the upgrade?
Shadow
Be aware.....that if your cruiser has lights that are not halogen at the moment (they are sealed beams) then the spade connecters on the back of them are orientated differently to halogen ones...and if you are not good at electricals......it would be better to buy a pro to wire it all up....
A good option would be to use the new blue globes at std wattage for the outers, and put high wattage inners in and relay them only....so the outside high beals dont have to share volts with the inners any more, and the inners get plenty from upgraded wire and relays....
Have done this to my 61 and 80 with good results.
Best value option is to save the pennies and get some light forces..
Be aware.....that if your cruiser has lights that are not halogen at the moment (they are sealed beams) then the spade connecters on the back of them are orientated differently to halogen ones...and if you are not good at electricals......it would be better to buy a pro to wire it all up....
A good option would be to use the new blue globes at std wattage for the outers, and put high wattage inners in and relay them only....so the outside high beals dont have to share volts with the inners any more, and the inners get plenty from upgraded wire and relays....
Have done this to my 61 and 80 with good results.
Best value option is to save the pennies and get some light forces..
Currently running Hella inserts with 100/80 & 100 globes, with standard wiring. Wiring gets hot and h/light relay gets VERY hot. Great spread of light!!
Would def reccomend a wiring upgrade.
And I'll hopefully get around to doing mine.....
Would def reccomend a wiring upgrade.
And I'll hopefully get around to doing mine.....
Luv the sound of a diesel,
especially a Chev 6.2!
Its GONE.........Replaced by a qik HDJ105.
The bigger the boy, the bigger the TOY!!
especially a Chev 6.2!
Its GONE.........Replaced by a qik HDJ105.
The bigger the boy, the bigger the TOY!!
I'm an electronic engineering student (final year) so i think i can handle the wiring >_<
If im gonna do a new loom I will just do a new loom for all lights with a 40amp realy for high and 25amp realy for low and some nice thick cable.
Just curious as to the wierdness I have heard with the toyota wiring system mainly.
Sixty, what did you pay for your hella inserts and where did ya get em from?
If im gonna do a new loom I will just do a new loom for all lights with a 40amp realy for high and 25amp realy for low and some nice thick cable.
Just curious as to the wierdness I have heard with the toyota wiring system mainly.
Sixty, what did you pay for your hella inserts and where did ya get em from?
I bought them from Ashdowns (Tvl) bout.....8(?) years ago.
As dow50r has said, the pins on the outer lights is not standard. The high (?) beam pin is in the earth position & viceversa. I had to make an adapter.
Also, the space behind the outer lights is tight. Try to use a 'standard' plug rather than the insulated terminals I did.....
As dow50r has said, the pins on the outer lights is not standard. The high (?) beam pin is in the earth position & viceversa. I had to make an adapter.
Also, the space behind the outer lights is tight. Try to use a 'standard' plug rather than the insulated terminals I did.....
Luv the sound of a diesel,
especially a Chev 6.2!
Its GONE.........Replaced by a qik HDJ105.
The bigger the boy, the bigger the TOY!!
especially a Chev 6.2!
Its GONE.........Replaced by a qik HDJ105.
The bigger the boy, the bigger the TOY!!
friends LC80 has IPF 170/100 H4 and 100 H1's on OEM Koito headlights.
trouble with toyota wiring is that in some cars when you put a relay harness the outer bulbs double engage on high beam, means that the high and low beam turn on together resulting in burned high wattage bulbs. but ok for 60/55 bulbs.
another is the high beam indicator will not light up inside the dash when you put a relay harness. what we do is add another relay which we call normally open relay to remedy these problems.
trouble with toyota wiring is that in some cars when you put a relay harness the outer bulbs double engage on high beam, means that the high and low beam turn on together resulting in burned high wattage bulbs. but ok for 60/55 bulbs.
another is the high beam indicator will not light up inside the dash when you put a relay harness. what we do is add another relay which we call normally open relay to remedy these problems.
Mate...no offence, but theory and prac are two different things....see how you go, ive done three now, and it gets a bit technical, because Toyota have added things like auto lights off using dioded feeds....all that will disappear if you dont use part of the std loom...Shadow wrote:I'm an electronic engineering student (final year) so i think i can handle the wiring >_<
If im gonna do a new loom I will just do a new loom for all lights with a 40amp realy for high and 25amp realy for low and some nice thick cable.
Just curious as to the wierdness I have heard with the toyota wiring system mainly.
Sixty, what did you pay for your hella inserts and where did ya get em from?
The Yota lights have a 12v fused/relayed feed, and are beam controlled by relayed negitive side...in the end, the engineers at yota wanted to prolong the globe life, hence the VD down to 11.5 at the globe....if you want real bright lights, feed them from the back of the alt, and carry a few spares for the middle of the night...
Ebay were selling sealed beam 100w aircraft landing lights....pretty good, but in the end, the reflecter is still too small and of the wrong shape to spread light... value for illumination....nothing beats some purpose built Super Oscars or similar.
Andrew
none tanken, I understand that other peoples engineering can be mind boggling but I like to think I can work through it.dow50r wrote:Mate...no offence, but theory and prac are two different things....see how you go, ive done three now, and it gets a bit technical, because Toyota have added things like auto lights off using dioded feeds....all that will disappear if you dont use part of the std loom...Shadow wrote:I'm an electronic engineering student (final year) so i think i can handle the wiring >_<
If im gonna do a new loom I will just do a new loom for all lights with a 40amp realy for high and 25amp realy for low and some nice thick cable.
Just curious as to the wierdness I have heard with the toyota wiring system mainly.
Sixty, what did you pay for your hella inserts and where did ya get em from?
The Yota lights have a 12v fused/relayed feed, and are beam controlled by relayed negitive side...in the end, the engineers at yota wanted to prolong the globe life, hence the VD down to 11.5 at the globe....if you want real bright lights, feed them from the back of the alt, and carry a few spares for the middle of the night...
Ebay were selling sealed beam 100w aircraft landing lights....pretty good, but in the end, the reflecter is still too small and of the wrong shape to spread light... value for illumination....nothing beats some purpose built Super Oscars or similar.
Andrew
Mine doesnt have auto light off(did any 60 series?),
beam controlled by relayed negative side,
By this do you mean the gnd wire is switched instead of the v+ ? and does this account for the discrepency with the connector you mentioned previously?
ie H4 globe has 1 gnd connector with two +ve switched, where as the toyota spec will have 1 v+ connection and two switched grounds.
And is this also why a "circuit completer" is added to some of the aftermarket wiring looms (piranha) when used on a toyota?
I have a set of IPF spotlights with 130watt globes, just that 2 of my headlights are blown at the moment (truck throwing a bit of steel and one just blew) so its the perfect opportunity to upgrade em, I cant seem to find any sealed beams that are higher wattage than the 60/45 etc (100/65 would be nice).
So did 80 series come factory with semi sealed beams? I thaught they just came with the same sealed beams as the post 87 60 series.
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