who's got a weber on a sierra

Post by **spook_95** » Mon Mar 27, 2006 9:52 pm

JrZook wrote:
No no the sidedraught is an awsome offroad carb and very simple. Pull it apart and give it a clean out and see what u find"

any ideas if the sidedraught can be bolted on to a 1.3l as i'm dumping the 1l soon and putting in a bombed 1.3l thinking mabye a sidedraught webber?

Post by **JrZook** » Mon Mar 27, 2006 10:03 pm

Yes a weber side draught would be awsome on a 1.3, well thats wat im looking into anyway.

Check out this link http://www.teamswift.net/viewforum.php?f=8

Swifts running all sorts of diffenent carbs. The 1liter carb would be too small but 2, 1l carbs might be able to fuel the 1.3.

Post by **mlzook** » Mon Apr 03, 2006 4:55 pm

where in Sydney can i get the adaptor plate to run a 32/36DGAV weber on a sierra? I went to Hume performance but they didnt have any listings for sierra s. I heard a rumour that the adaptor plate for sigmas fit. Is this true?????

Post by **JrZook** » Mon Apr 03, 2006 5:40 pm

built4thrashing wrote:The adaptor ive used is a lynx manifold adaptor

part No#
KC112 Adaptor kit
5200 holleyDCD DGV Weber
to Nikki & Asian

i got it from autobarn for i think $27 but then i had to go buy some gaskets to put between the manifold, the adaptor and carby.
on another note you will need to fab up a accelerator arm for the carb and if you mount it backwards you may have to move the PCV valve out the way.

This might help, cause they wouldnt have an adapter for a zuk specifically it just has a nikki asian base

Post by **ado250** » Sun Apr 09, 2006 9:47 am

You can get an adapter plate from suzisport seven hills for around the $30 mark, they will have what you need. Also the adapter plate is the same for a Nissan Bluebird and I think the sigma to, so if you get to the wreckers, might be able to find one.

I have just rigged up an ACCEL SUPER COIL (higher voltage output) on my zook to replace the standard coil. I thought of getting some performance plugs, but it the capacity of the coil is S__T then there's no point. Opened up the plug gap to around 1.4mm (as opposed to standard about 0.8mm) and it made a hell of a difference! I want to muck around a bit more with the gapping and see how far I can go before losing the power. Any ideas? I would tend to think up around 1.8-2mm would be max.

Burns fuel alot better now and hence better fuel efficiency. $50 for the brand new coil on ebay so it's a good investment. I recommend this be done BEFORE tuning carb though.

Post by **NIK** » Sun Apr 09, 2006 3:49 pm

Is anyone runningthe Lynx ramflo filter, if so howdoes it compare to the nine inch open filter set up. The more people I talk to about my carb the more conflicting the stories get. Ive been told to downsize the jets and that getting air into the top of the filter makes no difference to performance.
The reason I ask is I want to set up a snorkle and I saw a neat trick on zuwharrie about a guy that used a vit airbox (could use any) cut the base to go over the weber, bolted the lynx filter above it so when you instal the lid its seals and the end that would normaly go to the carb gets plumbed straight to your snorkel. Of course you would have to make sure it would fit under the bonnet. Sorry I cant post pix but its the best idea Ive seen so far what do you think?
Still trying to find out how to adjust the float level, do you do it with the float upside down or the right way up and where do you take the measurments from?

Im currently running

Primary Secondary
Idle 60 50
Main 135 140
Air 170 160
Runs ok no flat spots but I,l keep playing.
Nik

Post by **ado250** » Sun Apr 09, 2006 5:29 pm

Im running the 9 inch and I tried running the zook without a filter at all, not much difference if you ask me, atleast not enough to go out and spend the money on it. If you do run a snorkel, I wouldn't think that you would need to do all of that, but maybe you should think about running the air line straight into the carb from the top? I know it is a hell of alot easier to run the standard zook carby top adapter and just cut a new shape into it for the weber, then maybe weld some tabs on to bolt it down.

Otherwise, using some plate one could make an adapter to get a tube straight into the top of the carby. I also would tend to think that having the air travelling in one direction (rather than changing 90 degrees as with the zook airbox) would be beneficial. I have seem some Toyota Corolla air boxes where the air comes through the bottom and out the top. This way the air from the snorkel could come from the side of the car to the weber in a straight line, no bends and twists!

Post by **built4thrashing** » Sun Apr 09, 2006 7:52 pm

the weber is designed to suck air straight down into the throats and not from the side. if you have to draw from the sides its better to supply air to the front so both throats get even air.
I have had 32/36 webers on several escorts and cortinas and the lynx Ramflow air filters are the best to use as they have almost no restriction and allow better air flow into the throats.

as for a snorkel you should search as many wreckers and swap meets as you can and hope you can find an adaptor like mine that allows you to connect an intake pipe directly onto the carby from above.

Post by **ado250** » Sun Apr 09, 2006 10:39 pm

Heheheheee, nice return spring! Almost as dodgy as mine

If you can get your hands on some tin snips and maybe some gal sheet (and some know how ofcourse), then that could be made in a dodgy fashion. Ofcourse some thin stainless plate, an oxy and a welder would be even better. Try tracing out the mounting face of the carby and mark the hole positions, and get it into a metalworkers shop, dare say they could make one up very cheaply for you.

BUILT 4: Have you done a BL on your zook? Just wondering how you went for clearance in mounting the pipe over the weber? Im doing a BL anyway so I guess I will have enough room for a flexihose into the top?

Post by **ado250** » Sun Apr 09, 2006 10:40 pm

Also BUILT4:

Are you running the fuel return line on your carby? I bought mine with the return line soldered up, but something tells me I should really be connecting that back up to the charcoal cannister some time soon in the interest of fuel economy.

Post by **smiley_smoke** » Mon Apr 10, 2006 2:43 pm

howdy guys. i have gotten my hands on a 32/36 dgav off a mates 2l escort and have spent the weekend cleaning it up and put a full rebuild kit throug it. (gaskets and so forth) was fun

i am in perth and still trying to sort out a place to get an adaptor from.
also:: anyone know of a good place to get some jets from(perth preferably)? i was hoping to get it close to everyone elses setup before i slap it on the zook.

air filter wise, whats the best way to get it up and running? i was going to connect it up to my airbox and couldnt think of a good way to connect it up.
B4T's setup looks sweet but look like it would take a lot of extra space up top to fit it. i dont have a BL so that may be a hinderance aye?

any ideas would be appreciated. my only one would be to use a 90 degree pvc bend and then connect it with flexi hose to the top of my airbox.. would that suffice?
cheers fellas

Post by **nicbeer** » Mon Apr 10, 2006 2:51 pm

Smily - check out the carby shop is ozzie park maybe. or even hitech brake and clutch in ossie park also, i believe they do that as well.

If u dont do too much dusty driving u might be able to get away with just the top mount filter.

Nic

Post by **smiley_smoke** » Mon Apr 10, 2006 3:53 pm

yeh nice sounds like an idea Nic cheers mate. the Carby Shop... ill hunt them down.
dusty roads may be on the agenda but one of my thoughts was to run the topmount air filter around town and then when i go fourbying and so on i would hook it up to the airbox.. not too sure how much mucking around that would be and if i could reuse the current sidedraught intake for when i go wheeling. (with modification of course).

anyone got pics of the bracket that needed to be modified for the accelerator cable? is that right? i may have misread previous statements.

Post by **JrZook** » Mon Apr 10, 2006 7:07 pm

I am running the lynx 600 series ramflo airfilter on top of mine, difference is not tooo much to brag about but is a bit smoother throughout the rev range. The filter element deffinetly needs to be oiled otherwise fine dirt will get through. The ramflo deffinetly makes it a hell of a lot louder tho

Post by **nicbeer** » Mon Apr 10, 2006 7:23 pm

Smily:

PERTH CARBURETTOR SPECIALISTS P/L
U1/ 131 Howe St Osborne Park 6017 (08) 9444 8588
Fax (08) 9444 8599

Nic

Post by **smiley_smoke** » Mon Apr 10, 2006 7:26 pm

Thanks a ton Nic, couldnt find them to save myself.

JRZOOK - where did you get the ramflow setup? one of your previous posts said cost around 50? and i assume its a snug fit on top of the carby? would i need a BL to clear it or is it a low profile filter?

i looked at the bracket and spring that B4T has setup for the accelerator cable... er.. looked a bit dodgy

no offence Built4T.

Post by **built4thrashing** » Mon Apr 10, 2006 7:48 pm

the accel lever in that pic was one of my first attempts. I stuck with the same design but used a wider bit of ally. Whats wrong with my return spring? It works and thats the main thing

. Gives a nice soft pedal feel.
I had a BL in my zook before i did the weber. i doubt it would fit if i didn't have one. If you make up your own air box adaptor for the carby make sure the intake pipe is at the front of the carby or you will never tune it properly. primary throat will rob all the air from the secondarys if attached to the side.(if mounted backwards)

As for the jets i would find ya nearest pinch a part self serve wreckers and have a scavange in escorts, cortinas, falcons and sone pugs and renos, they all had webers on then and most jets are interchangable. (i haven't paid for any jets yet

)

as for fuel supply/returm, if you have a return line off the carb, tee it into the return line off the fuel pump. If you dont then i recomend you use a pressure regulator (set at 2)
I use the regulator setup

if you dont do much deep water driving then a ramflow filter is the easiest way to go and they will fit without a BL and will give you the best performance and if driven NICE

really good economy. Combined this with extractors and a decent exhaust and you have a smooth setup.

oh if any one has any extractors to get rid of then ill have them.

Post by **NIK** » Mon Apr 10, 2006 8:04 pm

Ive ordered a kit for my carb as I dont think the secondary is working properly so I,l put the kit in while I have it apart AGAIN. When I rev the motor until the secondaries open fuel just dribbles down the side of the throat, aparantely it should spray a fan out the middle of the auxilary tube?
Will the instructions tell me how to adjust the float level?
Nik

Post by **smiley_smoke** » Tue Apr 11, 2006 9:56 am

hey man i put a kit through it also. the kit comes with a new needle and seat (which the float sits on inside the fuel bowl) and it also specifies the measurements to adjust your float to.. plastic is 35mm and metal float is 41mm from memory.. i may be wrong.
i have taken photos of the kit and also the product codes and the address of the place i got it from in Perth just for future reference. ill post up pics later on today..
when i rebuilt mine i gave it a good petrol bath and cleaned it up as it had a few years of build up on the throats of the carb and it limited the free movement of the secondarys (plus there was a load of sh!t stopping it on the inside) petrol also took off the spray paint that someone sprayed on the throttle body :| ... long story.

Post by **smiley_smoke** » Tue Apr 11, 2006 6:09 pm

pics for all...
one or two of the rebuild kit and the instructions that come with it.

In Perth the kit can be purchased (and is in stock) from coventrys on walter rd morley. roughly 70 bucks

cheers

Post by **built4thrashing** » Tue Apr 11, 2006 8:54 pm

hey NIK
Check that the aux tube is not in backwards. or that it is not blocked

Post by **NIK** » Wed Apr 12, 2006 11:20 am

Thanks for the replies, Im STILL waiting on the rebuild kit so I wont pull the carb apart yet. Im sure the auxilary tube is round the right way (hole facing inward) but it seems a bit sloppy should there be a seal between it and the body?
If been reading Sarge,s posts on zuwharrie they have been a huge help. Someone said to check "orc" aswell. What site is that?
Thanks Nik

Post by **ado250** » Sat Apr 15, 2006 3:27 pm

B4T,

Now you say you run a regulator? I do have a return line on my carby, but most of the brass fitting has been cut off and the inside soldered. I could probably flare it again but I like the idea of the regulator on the fuel line.

What type of regulator is this and where can it be bought?

BTW: Nothing wrong with the return spring, you should see my one, SCARY!

Post by **built4thrashing** » Sun Apr 16, 2006 9:09 am

ado- Ya should be able to get a pressure reg from most decent performance auto shops or even off Ebay. You dont really need a reg if its only a tar carbut if ya take it out in to the bush then you turn the pressure down to about 1 so it doesnt force fuel past the needle seat at angles.

P.S; Im gonna try to get some better pics of float vent mod that show what ive done and where to drill the holes etc

Post by **ado250** » Sun Apr 16, 2006 12:35 pm

B4T,

I thought maybe it had something to do with the fuel economy.

So not having the return line connected, I guess this will be bad for my fuel economy at high RPM's? I wouldn't think so though as the standard carb didn't actually have a return line for the fuel, but it had some sort of VAPOUR return line to the charcoal cannister on the firewall. I haven't really seen a place for this on the weber, but I think that having extra fuel vapour going into the mix can't be too good for economy?

Ado.

Post by **built4thrashing** » Sun Apr 16, 2006 5:12 pm

just found this link that should help those just starting to play with their weber 32/36 http://www.izook.com/tech/samurai/engin ... /weber.htm

Post by **NIK** » Tue Apr 18, 2006 7:13 pm

Im STILL waiting for my carb kit, the guy I ordered it through went away for easter (to bad if I wanted to) and no one else knew what was happening. But now hes back and aparently the model number I gave him off the base of the carb dosnt mean anything!! So they are getting me a kit for a cortina as thats what the carb came off, no idea what model it was though. What do you guys think any differences?
B4T how are you going with the pics of the vent mods? I have 2 32/36 webers but they both have different vents.
Nik

Post by **built4thrashing** » Tue Apr 18, 2006 7:18 pm

sorry guys. never got around to it as father-in-law had me working on MY extension all weekend. Well he is doing all the brickwork for me for nothing

Will see how i go during the week

Post by **smiley_smoke** » Tue Apr 18, 2006 7:20 pm

i think thats the same kit i got man. should be the right one. it said 32/36 DGV but much of a muchness

can someone get a few more closeups of the throttle linkage and return springs.. i need a few ideas on making one so i can get it all sorted before i start bolting on the carby..

cheers.

Post by **NIK** » Tue Apr 18, 2006 8:20 pm

Cant post pics for some reason but when I did my throttle linkage (about 8 years ago) I think we cut the outer part of the linkage of the zook carb the bit that the cable hooks onto. Then welded it to the weber linkage. Then I ran the return spring off the small screw the holds the barrel onto the end of the cable down through the manifold to the water pipe underneath it.
Hope that helps in some way,
Nik

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