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Rock Hoppers Gears. Installed now but with a small problem

Tech Talk for Nissan owners.

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Rock Hoppers Gears. Installed now but with a small problem

Post by ergjan19 »

I've just very recently bought a set of rockhopper gears made by bigballsoffroad. 81% reduction.

Just wondering if anyones installed them into a Nissan transfer case?
What soughta difficulty is involved in doing it?

If anyones had any experience installing these, please give me some feedback. I am plannin on fitting them this weekend.

Thanks
Barry
Last edited by ergjan19 on Mon Apr 10, 2006 5:30 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Post by stool »

Ask Liam {aka bigballs} To give you the instructions and a few handy tips



Steve
GQ with big nuts
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Post by raptorthumper »

It is a hard job, first time round. Always check both bibles first GQ and GU.

See link below.

http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/viewtopic.php?t=67207


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Last edited by raptorthumper on Tue Nov 14, 2006 9:51 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Post by ergjan19 »

raptorthumper wrote:It is a hard job, first time round. Always check both bibles first GQ and GU.

See link below.

http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... hp?t=67207


______________________________________________________
Thank heaps, that link was good. Keep the info coming
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Post by duncan »

It is very easy just rember to take more than enough ally out of the case to clear the gears .Lastly make sure you swap the plug over on the input shaft also when you fit the low range gears you have to fit the bearing into the houseing not onto the shaft as one of the other gears covers part of the gear not allowing it to be fitted as normal.So far ive done 2 cases one with marks gears and one with big balls gears you dont have to re use the very thin gears ,just take your time it will all work out ok if you have hassle ring me on

(08) 9592 8490 im in WA when i had trouble on the first case no one wanted to help

Duncan
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Post by ergjan19 »

duncan wrote:It is very easy just rember to take more than enough ally out of the case to clear the gears .Lastly make sure you swap the plug over on the input shaft also when you fit the low range gears you have to fit the bearing into the houseing not onto the shaft as one of the other gears covers part of the gear not allowing it to be fitted as normal.So far ive done 2 cases one with marks gears and one with big balls gears you dont have to re use the very thin gears ,just take your time it will all work out ok if you have hassle ring me on

(08) 9592 8490 im in WA when i had trouble on the first case no one wanted to help

Duncan
Thankyou very much mate. I might take you up on that offer this weekend if i get stuck.

Also I have spoke to Nissan today, they are telling me I dont need any gasket seals. Is that correct?.

Thanks again
Barry
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Re: Rock Hoppers Gears. How hard or easy are they to instal

Post by bogged »

how old is the t/case? bearings etc worth changing?
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Post by raptorthumper »

You dont need gaskets. The cases are sealed with a suitable liquid silicone gasket, like any of the loctite, threebond guey stuff.

You dont need any bearings and seals either unless they either worn out or you damage them during the removal process.

Just be careful when you remove the switches as there are quite a few little ball bearings and sometimes these dont want to fall out as the oils is sticky, so make sure you dont loose them. And look for the little dowel pin in the front housing between the selector shafts, when you split the cases apart. Otherwise it will get lost.

:D
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Re: Rock Hoppers Gears. How hard or easy are they to instal

Post by ergjan19 »

bogged wrote:how old is the t/case? bearings etc worth changing?
Its a 1998 GU patrol auto. Has 150000k's on the clock. I dont think i'll need to replace bearings but wont be 100% sure till we open the case.
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Post by ROCKRASH »

If you replace the bearings (and even if you don't) check lay shaft end float. Nissan supply a range of shims to correct it
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Post by ROCKRASH »

Just reread the thread and was just wondering what Duncan meant when he said that you don't have to use the thin gears. Do you mean the backlash eliminator. I put a set of Marks in mine and he supplied a new one for the large end of the idler. It appears as though I'm easily confused.
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Post by ergjan19 »

I've got the rockhopper gears, not the ones from marks. Does anyone know if theres anything majorly different from installing marks compared to rock hoppers apart from the backlash eliminator?
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Post by ROCKRASH »

Just when I thought I was beginning to become intelligent I now find that I need to ask why the Marks gear set requires a backlash eliminator and the Rockhoppers don't. As I said I'm easily confused
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Post by duncan »

The Big Balls gears I bought for my patrol came with no instructions and no backlash gears ,when I ran into trouble with putting the case back together no one could help.Just fitted a set of Marks gears to a mates case came with good instructions differences were that in the BigBalls gears one of the gears has a section milled of it to make it easy to fit were the Marks dosent but you just fit it through the case from the other side just makes you think a little more.on the first case i didnt use the back lash eliminators though we did put them back in the last one didnt seem to make any difference to how it drove or changed.

Just make sure you have a good quality 3 legged bearing puller as you need to remove your old bearing to reuse them just use a quality sealent on the case faces to put it back together .The trans case is a little heavy to pull out and one of the bolts on the passenger side is a prick to get out but can be done by lowering the gear box and trans case by undoing the gearbox cross member bolts then lowering it to get to the bolt
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Post by ergjan19 »

duncan wrote:The Big Balls gears I bought for my patrol came with no instructions and no backlash gears ,when I ran into trouble with putting the case back together no one could help.Just fitted a set of Marks gears to a mates case came with good instructions differences were that in the BigBalls gears one of the gears has a section milled of it to make it easy to fit were the Marks dosent but you just fit it through the case from the other side just makes you think a little more.on the first case i didnt use the back lash eliminators though we did put them back in the last one didnt seem to make any difference to how it drove or changed.

Just make sure you have a good quality 3 legged bearing puller as you need to remove your old bearing to reuse them just use a quality sealent on the case faces to put it back together .The trans case is a little heavy to pull out and one of the bolts on the passenger side is a prick to get out but can be done by lowering the gear box and trans case by undoing the gearbox cross member bolts then lowering it to get to the bolt
Thanks again duncan.

I managed to get a hold of the instructions from marks and they are a lot more detailed. Am doing it at my friends dads place tomorrow. His gots every tool i'll need under the sun, hopefully. His even got a cradle to lower the transfer case. I'll make sure i take heaps of pics and post some for all to see.

How long did it take you to complete the first time???
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Post by duncan »

Gind around for 2 days trying to get info and work out how to do it last one probable 4 hours to do the case with it already out of the car to refit is easy case isnt to heavy you can lift out by your self make sure you have a dead blow hammer to help put the 2 pieces of the case back together DO NOT USE THE CASE BOLTS TO PULL IT BACK TOGETHER as with to much force you could brake the case
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Post by Screwy »

it is a very difficult job the first time you play around with it if you dont have the gear and a decent set of instructions.....
i had trouble but could do it again in a quarter of the time :)
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Post by ergjan19 »

ok all is going pritty good so far, have managed to get all the gears in but have had a little problem trying to get the dowel pin back in between the selector gears but thats probably cause of lack of sleep.

Just wanna know what the tailshaft retainer nut should be done upto? In the link near the top it says 450nm but that seems way to much.
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Post by duncan »

Tight as you can get it a standard 1/2 torque wrench at max just makes it .Sounds like you guys got there in the end its worth all the pain as low range is so much better just crawling along.
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Post by ergjan19 »

Gears are finally installed after 2 days and the reduction is fantastic.

Only got one small problem.

Basically when i am in 1st gear low range, sit at about 2000rpm it lurches back and forth like when your out of fuel. Its got over half a tank in it so it deffiantely aint fuel.

But when your in second, third or 4th low range, there no prob. All gears in high range are fine aswell.

I am thinking that its something to do with the cables that connect from the gear lever and the low range lever may be under pressure in 1st gear low. Could this be it, if not any suggestions would be great.
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Post by raptorthumper »

Is it an Auto or manual.? And Petrol or Diesel.?

Also not quite sure what you mean by cables. Mine is a 98 model GU patrol and there aren't any cables connecting the Hi/Low gear lever to the transfercase. Just the lever itself. If you mean lurching, like bunny hopping the lower gearing means you need to be smoother on applying the throttle.


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Post by ergjan19 »

raptorthumper wrote:Is it an Auto or manual.? And Petrol or Diesel.?

Also not quite sure what you mean by cables. Mine is a 98 model GU patrol and there aren't any cables connecting the Hi/Low gear lever to the transfercase. Just the lever itself. If you mean lurching, like bunny hopping the lower gearing means you need to be smoother on applying the throttle.


_____________________________________________
Its an Auto
Nah the lurchin deffiantely seems like fuel, i can drive for say 20 - 50 metres no prob then all of a suddenly starts and doesnt stop until i change gears. Actually its weird. in first gear low when its lurching, u pop into second and third and it keeps doing the same thing. but if u drop the revs to idle then change the gear to second then take off its sweet

Could something be pinching some vaccumm line or something.
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Post by ergjan19 »

Went for another test drive today and noticed something.

In first gear low, between say 1500rpm and 2000rpm is where i get the above problem of lurchin but not until i have drove say between 20 - 50 metres.

If i speed upto say 2500rpm or more before the lurchin starts its no prob for as long as i want.

Could it be a computer management problem?
My only other idea is that i might have crimped something when jacking the gearbox and transfer case up to get the crossmember back on.

Gonna lower the gearbox and transfer tomorrow night again and have a look.
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Post by raptorthumper »

My Patrol is a 98 4.5 Litre Auto, and i dont have any of your symptons.
It is possible that Nissan upgraded the Auto trans calibration shift points on later versions, (although i tend to doubt it)

Do a quick check and disconnect the speed sensor from the back of the transfercase. The Auto will then not know the difference that the gearing has changed and will be in limp mode.

I have driven with my speed sensor disconnected and it still drives fine, although the speedo doesn't work obviously.

Also check that the 4wd switch electrical plug is connected. If it is the 4wd light on the dash will come up when 4wd is engaged.


Grant.

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Post by AndrewPatrol »

perhaps reset 'puters by disconnecting battery for a couple of minutes?

Another thought ( ??? ) - the wiring for swithes on box on correct terminals?

About to go through this job myself, let us know what the outcome is, 'cos I got an auto box too.

Is that heavy nut ( 450 Nm ) real hard to undo - posssible on my own??
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Post by ergjan19 »

The 4wd switch is deffiantely plugged in. Double checked it tonight.

Gonna try reset the computer tomorrow, if that doesn't work then i'll take out the speed sensor. I'll let u know how i go.
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Post by ergjan19 »

AndrewPatrol wrote:Is that heavy nut ( 450 Nm ) real hard to undo - posssible on my own??
Yeah you could undo that nut on your own but make sure you do it on the car. One person undid it by using there legs to push it while on a breaker bar.

I would recommend two people to drop the transfer case as its bloody heavy. Getting it back on was even harder as its awkard trying to lift the case while your laying under the car. We had 3 ppl to put it back up.
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Post by Bartso »

sounds like something is definately up with the auto gearbox electrically
does an auto warning light come on when you start the car or flash?
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Post by ergjan19 »

Disconected the battery for a while tonight to reset the computer but that didn't help.

Next is to cut the speedo sensor line and see if that makes a differents.
I am really starting to get stuck now.
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Post by ergjan19 »

Bartso wrote:sounds like something is definately up with the auto gearbox electrically
does an auto warning light come on when you start the car or flash?
I am pritty sure there was no extra lights or flashing lights on the dash but i'll double check again tonight. Thanks
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