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I need 2 x 12volt air solinoids for a couple of second hand Airlockers I have.
ARB want to bend me over to the tune of $84 each
I was thinking surely there must be an aftermarket alternative from tubefit or enzed or similar.
Anyone know where I can get them?
Also anyone have any part numbers or prices etc?
Paul.
$84 seems like a good price to me. I went into covs and brought a air solonid for my air horns, $60. Remember the ARB ones will fit straght into the air tank, the harness will plug straight in and the air lines will just push in, no extra fittings, nipples or adaptors.
Wendle wrote:just get a pair of 3 port valves and get rid of all the electrical stuff.
I`m doing just that in my buggy. The main reason is the other guy that owns it with me is an auto lecky and he doesn`t want to wire it as he hates wiring. I myself like the idea as it makes for less electrics to fark up
Wendle wrote:just get a pair of 3 port valves and get rid of all the electrical stuff.
More info for the dummies like me
airline comes off the compressor, T'd into 2 valves (front and rear), then from the valves to their respective lockers. flick them one way and line pressure goes into the lockers, flick them the other way and the pressure is dumped through the exhaust port on the valves.
i am running the same setup on my unimog lockers, except with 5 port valves (air pressure on / air pressure off)
The pneumatic switch option is definitely simpler, and I'd use it on a comp rig.
For a general use 4by, I'll stick with the ARB wiring - because it means there's less chance of a locker being activated accidentally.
With all pneumatic system, if there's sufficient pressure in the system and the switch is activated the locker will engage. Not necessarily good.
With ARB's electric switching the locker solenoid won't switch if the compressor isn't on - even if there's pressure in the tank. On the Pajero's Super Select system, with a disconnect beside the front axle, accidentally engaging the front locker while moving in 2wd can be disastrous. Electrically, I've included the front axle switch, so the locker solenoid can't turn on if the front axle isn't engaged. Try doing that pneumatically...
Simpler isn't necessarily better. Why aren't we still driving Model T's?
Wendle wrote:just get a pair of 3 port valves and get rid of all the electrical stuff.
I have thought about this.
But I think I will stay with electric.
Does anyone ever have any problems with the elec solinoids anyway?
Normally it is the compressor or compressor wiring that craps itself not the solinoid.
Just was hoping to find a cheaper source.
If I find one I will post up part no and supplier etc.
Paul.
pongo wrote:please keep an eye out for some low pressure solanoids. eg 3psi for pressurising diffs,etc.
cheers
The ARB solinoids should work at these low pressures. Only problem is most are connected to arb comp that have the pressure switch set at 100psi.
As the airsolinoid is just an elec air valve.
pongo wrote:please keep an eye out for some low pressure solanoids. eg 3psi for pressurising diffs,etc.
cheers
What u need is a low pressure regulator, U could use the 100psi in the tank, then a air solanoid into a pressure reg set at 3psi, then off that run lines to your diffs, gear box, transfer, winch. Flick 1 switch and they are all covered.
I got some recently of ARB in north Sydney, from memory was around $55 each for genuine ARB, I had also priced them through TJM who wanted $ 90+, so even with freight your still way in front.
Try not to let your mind wander...It is too
small and fragile to be out by itself.