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Advice, is it worth it
Moderator: Micka
Advice, is it worth it
im looking at buying my first 4b and have settled on a discovery series 1. im looking to spend under 8000 i have found one at a dealer, sold as is for 7.500
with full log books regular service history, vehicle looks very clean and well maintained and doesnt appear to need much if anything for a rwc. it has done 190300km is it worth buying at 7500 or can i find better deals?
cheers
Tim
with full log books regular service history, vehicle looks very clean and well maintained and doesnt appear to need much if anything for a rwc. it has done 190300km is it worth buying at 7500 or can i find better deals?
cheers
Tim
I have been keeping my eye out for a series 1 V8 Disco (in Brisbane though).
For a private sale it would be a bit too much but for a dealer there must be something very wrong with it to be going for that price IMHO.
In Brisbane I have seen only the crappiest examples being advertised for under $10k by dealers.
I reckon you should keep looking.
For a private sale it would be a bit too much but for a dealer there must be something very wrong with it to be going for that price IMHO.
In Brisbane I have seen only the crappiest examples being advertised for under $10k by dealers.
I reckon you should keep looking.
keep an eye out for options too. You might have to pay a touch more but things like a proper LPG setup would set you back a few thousand but these days pretty much a must for daily drivers that do any amount of ks.
I got my 96 V8 with sunroof, towbar, 10 stacker 7 seater with a warn winch TJM bar LPG setup and 180ks on the clock for 9k even.
Keep looking and be choosey
I got my 96 V8 with sunroof, towbar, 10 stacker 7 seater with a warn winch TJM bar LPG setup and 180ks on the clock for 9k even.
Keep looking and be choosey
Take me to the Bush!
If it is in really good condition it sound not too bad for the money.
There are some things that you should check. About 93-94 was the changeover between the LT77S box to the R380. Both the LT77S and the very first R380s had a mainshaft oiling problem. This was fixed either by an updated T-case input gear, or oil feeder attached to the back of the T-case (PTO cover plate). If this has not been done, it will show up as wear/backlash in the drivetrain (check with centre diff locked).
Apart from that, check:
rust in chassis, steel parts of body or where steel and aluminium join
all suspension bushes for wear
compression and timing of engine if you can (the rover V8's last forever, except for the top end (valves, cam, timing chain) which need doing about every 200-300k km).
There are some things that you should check. About 93-94 was the changeover between the LT77S box to the R380. Both the LT77S and the very first R380s had a mainshaft oiling problem. This was fixed either by an updated T-case input gear, or oil feeder attached to the back of the T-case (PTO cover plate). If this has not been done, it will show up as wear/backlash in the drivetrain (check with centre diff locked).
Apart from that, check:
rust in chassis, steel parts of body or where steel and aluminium join
all suspension bushes for wear
compression and timing of engine if you can (the rover V8's last forever, except for the top end (valves, cam, timing chain) which need doing about every 200-300k km).
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RUFF wrote:Beally STFU Your becoming a real PITA.
Besides the usual:SteveC wrote:I am looking for 1996 on Tdi Disco. Is there anything to lookout for with these?
Most have done 140,000 to 190,000 kms.
Thanks
Steve
The 300Tdis had timing pulley alignent problems, which was fixed by a 3-stage update kit from LR. The earliest 300's needed all 3 stages of the kit (which includes a new timing case). A 96 model probably needed stage 2 and a later model stage 1 (LR parts places can tell you which kit is needed from the VIN). You need to check that the appropriate kit has been fitted, and that the timing belt has been replaced on schedule (70k km service interval).
Also a good idea to get the injectors checked, as they are unservicable items, but they aren't too expensive and usually last for quite a while. Some earlier models suffered a problem with the injector pump which caused the case-hardening to flake off. When you are getting the injectors checked, pull the engine stop solenoid from the pump and check for fine metal particles.
Also check to see how much oil is in the intercooler piping.
If all that is OK then you should have a good 300Tdi that will last a long time. And the 300Tdi is very easy to tweak for better performance.
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RUFF wrote:Beally STFU Your becoming a real PITA.
thanks guys, well i think im probly going to get this one, ive been looking for a while even though its price is a little high i will see how low i can get him, but genuine service history from Graeme cooper (sp?) and it is very clean and straight.
its running the ZF auto is there anything to look out for, no rust at all on her.
all i need to do now is find a second hand bullbar and maybe sort out a lift and tyres
its running the ZF auto is there anything to look out for, no rust at all on her.
all i need to do now is find a second hand bullbar and maybe sort out a lift and tyres
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