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hilux front bearings
Moderators: toaddog, Elmo, DUDELUX
hilux front bearings
howdy,
i have some play in the wheels on the front of my LN65,
from my manual i have figured it out to be the bearings on the steering knuckle.plus there is a crap load of oil leaking out so i need to replaces teh oil seals..
how hard are these to do yourself?
manual said a whole bunch of stuff about figuring out preload on the bearing etc etc and list a bunch of special tools i would need.
have found this to be a load of bollocks on my other cars but just wanted to ask before i pull them apart...
cheers
Dom
i have some play in the wheels on the front of my LN65,
from my manual i have figured it out to be the bearings on the steering knuckle.plus there is a crap load of oil leaking out so i need to replaces teh oil seals..
how hard are these to do yourself?
manual said a whole bunch of stuff about figuring out preload on the bearing etc etc and list a bunch of special tools i would need.
have found this to be a load of bollocks on my other cars but just wanted to ask before i pull them apart...
cheers
Dom
85 LN65 D/cab locked with 35's
77 RA28 celica-in parts in perth
77 RA28 celica-in parts in perth
the only special tool you need is the all imprtant 54mm socket which is about $25-30.
you also need 3 years worth of accumulated rags, a steel punch about 4 inches long to knock out the old bearing races, and some suitably sized blocks of hardwood to knock the new races in. Other than that, a decent socket set and all the replacement seals and bearings will see you through.
Both sides will set you back about $80 total
Cheers
Sam
you also need 3 years worth of accumulated rags, a steel punch about 4 inches long to knock out the old bearing races, and some suitably sized blocks of hardwood to knock the new races in. Other than that, a decent socket set and all the replacement seals and bearings will see you through.
Both sides will set you back about $80 total
Cheers
Sam
it took me bout a day 1/2 all up and never attemped nething like that before. The hardest part i found was lining up the axles to put back into the diff, but that only took bout 10mins tops.
the whole area (swivle hubs through the freewhelling hubs) are greese dependant so pack it in and dont hold out
I paid bout $200 for all new bearings. seals and rotors so everyuthing is brand new.
Remember keep as much dirt/dust etc away as possible and try to keep a clean work area, and replace everything while ur in there to save time later on!!
the whole area (swivle hubs through the freewhelling hubs) are greese dependant so pack it in and dont hold out
I paid bout $200 for all new bearings. seals and rotors so everyuthing is brand new.
Remember keep as much dirt/dust etc away as possible and try to keep a clean work area, and replace everything while ur in there to save time later on!!
well i got one side done today,
the bearing had totally collapsed.managed to get it all apart and back together with a lot of wood bashing....
the other side the bearing has a lot of play in it so i want to change it now..
any one got any good ways og getting the axle out of the bearing with out a press??
a
cheers
Dom
the bearing had totally collapsed.managed to get it all apart and back together with a lot of wood bashing....
the other side the bearing has a lot of play in it so i want to change it now..
any one got any good ways og getting the axle out of the bearing with out a press??
a
cheers
Dom
85 LN65 D/cab locked with 35's
77 RA28 celica-in parts in perth
77 RA28 celica-in parts in perth
The axle out of the bearing? is the inner bearing stuck on the spindle? or do you mean the birf out of the knuckle? You should not require a press for anything. I'm prob repeating what you allready know by now, but to get the bearing races out of the hub, the bearing seats are not completely covered on the bottom, so you can use a punch to knock them out from the other side. use the old race big end in to seat the new races in the hub, that way you can make sure they are seated correctly, the old race will get stuck a couple of mm into the hub, but is easily removed as long as you remember to place it big end in so there is a lip to knock it out with.
I have no idea whether it helps or not, but i drop the new races a few degrees below 0 before attemping to put them in, could just be a placebo, but it certainly doesnt make it harder to get them in.
The CVs have a flat spot on both sides which you allign top and bottom to get them out.
hope that helps a bit
I have no idea whether it helps or not, but i drop the new races a few degrees below 0 before attemping to put them in, could just be a placebo, but it certainly doesnt make it harder to get them in.
The CVs have a flat spot on both sides which you allign top and bottom to get them out.
hope that helps a bit
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