Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.

Tapered Hole - Enlarging

Tech Talk for Suzuki owners.

Moderators: lay80n, sierrajim

Post Reply
izy
Posts: 22
Joined: Wed Oct 26, 2005 5:57 pm
Location: Brisbane, QLD

Tapered Hole - Enlarging

Post by izy »

Hi all,

I am trying to enlarge a tapered hole on my pitman and steering arm to allow use of larger / stronger tie rods ends, has anyone managed to do this and if so how? I have spoken to about 10 engineering joints and they all can't help me for some reason or another.

Cheers izy
Posts: 977
Joined: Sun Jul 20, 2003 7:57 pm
Location: Brisbane

Post by Gutless »

the tappered hole is usually a pressed in sleeve. So you should be able to have it pressed out.

You know that modifying steering links is illegal tho?? You may just have to find an engineer that will do the work for you, then sign off on it too. :?
[url]www.twinstickoffroad.com[/url]
Posts: 2752
Joined: Wed Apr 09, 2003 10:46 pm
Location: Carrum Downs Vic

Post by CRUSHU »

you need a tapered drill, of course!
www.CVEPerformance.com

Crushu F150 Buildup: http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/ftopic21987.php&highlight=crushu
Posts: 3552
Joined: Wed Apr 14, 2004 9:46 pm
Location: Ormond VIC

Re: Tapered Hole - Enlarging

Post by muppet_man67 »

izy wrote:Hi all,

I am trying to enlarge a tapered hole on my pitman and steering arm to allow use of larger / stronger tie rods ends, has anyone managed to do this and if so how? I have spoken to about 10 engineering joints and they all can't help me for some reason or another.

Cheers izy
its important if you do this to make sure that the surfaces will still lock together. otherwise you would have been better off leaving it. there are plenty of high steer set ups going around that have pretty dodgy tapers. someone will probebly chime in on how they did it with a dremel but that sort of thing worries me.
[url]http://www.vic.suzuki4wd.com/forum[/url]
izy
Posts: 22
Joined: Wed Oct 26, 2005 5:57 pm
Location: Brisbane, QLD

Post by izy »

Gutless wrote:the tappered hole is usually a pressed in sleeve. So you should be able to have it pressed out.

You know that modifying steering links is illegal tho?? You may just have to find an engineer that will do the work for you, then sign off on it too. :?
This one is actually straight into the cast arm...
izy
Posts: 22
Joined: Wed Oct 26, 2005 5:57 pm
Location: Brisbane, QLD

Post by izy »

Gutless wrote:the tappered hole is usually a pressed in sleeve. So you should be able to have it pressed out.

You know that modifying steering links is illegal tho?? You may just have to find an engineer that will do the work for you, then sign off on it too. :?
It's for a vehicle that isn't going to be registered, so this isn't a problem.
izy
Posts: 22
Joined: Wed Oct 26, 2005 5:57 pm
Location: Brisbane, QLD

Post by izy »

CRUSHU wrote:you need a tapered drill, of course!
Thats what I am chasing but I just can't seem to find one that is the right angle and size.
God Of Emo
Posts: 7350
Joined: Sun Aug 24, 2003 7:04 pm
Location: Newy, home of the ZOOK (Rockin the 'diff)

Post by lay80n »

Need a Ream to match the depth and taper you want to create.
Layto....
[quote="v840"]Just between me and you, I actually really dig the Megatwon, but if anyone asks, I'm going to shitcan it as much as possible! :D[/quote]
Posts: 2752
Joined: Wed Apr 09, 2003 10:46 pm
Location: Carrum Downs Vic

Post by CRUSHU »

izy wrote:
CRUSHU wrote:you need a tapered drill, of course!
Thats what I am chasing but I just can't seem to find one that is the right angle and size.
Try tooling mobs, like Guhring in Moorabbin VIC or Chipping Norton in NSW.
www.CVEPerformance.com

Crushu F150 Buildup: http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/ftopic21987.php&highlight=crushu
Posts: 511
Joined: Thu Oct 31, 2002 8:59 am
Location: Sydney

Post by Liam »

The engineering joints won't help for some good reasons;
Theres barely enough meat left in the standard arm to start with- machine some out and there's no point 'gaining' the extra strength of the bigger tre's
Not sure of the surface of the arm is hardened- but you'll be taking it off if it is.
The fit has to be exact or it'll start to be strong- the wrong taper will let the tre turn(and fail pretty quick)
The workshops don't care if you only use it offroad-steering's still pretty important.
www.bbmotorsports.com.au
Posts: 2066
Joined: Mon Jun 09, 2003 8:17 pm
Location: Gympie

Post by Rhett »

I got mine redrilled with no taper and use salon car tie rod ends. By memory there about 19mm. An engineering place did it for me
Its a wheelbase thing
Posts: 2832
Joined: Sat Oct 26, 2002 3:15 pm
Location: Ringwood East, VIC

Post by RoldIT »

As stated, what you are after is a tapered "ream" to match the tie rod.

Unlikely anyone will have one the right taper. Therefor custom made is the only way to go.

I have heard of one custom ream the has been made and the number of $800 was be thrown around!!!!! :shock:

You still keen?
KRiS
Posts: 2296
Joined: Thu Oct 24, 2002 4:30 pm

Post by OVERKILL ENG »

Gutless wrote:the tappered hole is usually a pressed in sleeve. So you should be able to have it pressed out.

You know that modifying steering links is illegal tho?? You may just have to find an engineer that will do the work for you, then sign off on it too. :?

The tapered hole is actualy machined into the arm and you will need a tepered reemer to enlarge it.
Depending on how far you need to enarge it you may need to get it x-rayed but for arguments sack if you are trying to use a toyota joint then you wi be fine.
SAM

ps we have a reemer to do the job if we can help
OVERKILL ENGINEERING
www.overkill4x4.com
Posts: 23
Joined: Sun Aug 07, 2005 1:27 am
Location: South Coast NSW

Post by petah from oz »

I got mine from i think bunnings for about 12 bucks about a year ago.
Its a sheet metal hole enlaging tool, just happend to be the right tapper.
Ive used it to flip my ball joints on a vitara. Will open a tapper up to about 19mm. Best done in a drill press slow. By hand it chatters abit, take it easy and slow and itll do the job.
1993 1.6Lt 4D JLX Vitara
2 1/2" lift, Rock slides,
Simex Extreme Trackers
Rockcrawler gears.
izy
Posts: 22
Joined: Wed Oct 26, 2005 5:57 pm
Location: Brisbane, QLD

Post by izy »

Liam wrote:The engineering joints won't help for some good reasons;
Theres barely enough meat left in the standard arm to start with- machine some out and there's no point 'gaining' the extra strength of the bigger tre's
Not sure of the surface of the arm is hardened- but you'll be taking it off if it is.
The fit has to be exact or it'll start to be strong- the wrong taper will let the tre turn(and fail pretty quick)
The workshops don't care if you only use it offroad-steering's still pretty important.
Thanks for the insight, but there is like 15mm of casting left around the current taper and I'll only be taking it out around 2mm diameter so in my books that’s still plenty of casting left.

Yeah I am aware that it has to be the correct angle etc, that’s why I started a thread to see if someone else knew how this could be achieved precisely.
izy
Posts: 22
Joined: Wed Oct 26, 2005 5:57 pm
Location: Brisbane, QLD

Post by izy »

Rhett wrote:I got mine redrilled with no taper and use salon car tie rod ends. By memory there about 19mm. An engineering place did it for me
Where did you purchase such a tie rod? Does it flog around or how has it been restrained?
izy
Posts: 22
Joined: Wed Oct 26, 2005 5:57 pm
Location: Brisbane, QLD

Post by izy »

RoldIT wrote:As stated, what you are after is a tapered "ream" to match the tie rod.

Unlikely anyone will have one the right taper. Therefor custom made is the only way to go.

I have heard of one custom ream the has been made and the number of $800 was be thrown around!!!!! :shock:

You still keen?
After doing some further investigation, I have found a place in Brisbane that will sell me a blank ream (about $110 for the size I want) and then machine it to the exact angle I require to match the tie rod for $48. So for $158 I could get the ream made, however there is a 1-2 week turnaround on the item so I was still going to have a look for another option, possibly a pre-made ream with the correct angle.
izy
Posts: 22
Joined: Wed Oct 26, 2005 5:57 pm
Location: Brisbane, QLD

Post by izy »

TEAM KNECK wrote:
Gutless wrote:the tappered hole is usually a pressed in sleeve. So you should be able to have it pressed out.

You know that modifying steering links is illegal tho?? You may just have to find an engineer that will do the work for you, then sign off on it too. :?

The tapered hole is actualy machined into the arm and you will need a tepered reemer to enlarge it.
Depending on how far you need to enarge it you may need to get it x-rayed but for arguments sack if you are trying to use a toyota joint then you wi be fine.
SAM

ps we have a reemer to do the job if we can help
Cheers mate, i'll send you a pm if I require it
izy
Posts: 22
Joined: Wed Oct 26, 2005 5:57 pm
Location: Brisbane, QLD

Post by izy »

petah from oz wrote:I got mine from i think bunnings for about 12 bucks about a year ago.
Its a sheet metal hole enlaging tool, just happend to be the right tapper.
Ive used it to flip my ball joints on a vitara. Will open a tapper up to about 19mm. Best done in a drill press slow. By hand it chatters abit, take it easy and slow and itll do the job.
Hmm, thats rather interesting, this is the sort of thing I was hoping to find out. Might have to make a trip down to bunnings tomorrow for a look-see.

Cheers
Post Reply

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 4 guests