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One blown TD42!!!
One blown TD42!!!
Ok not happy jan!
i've just vented the block on my TD42,iwas doing 60klm in 4th gear
and bang.
So the question is,
Do i source a second hand engine and hope that its all ok?.
I can get a second hand engine for $3000.
or
Do i rebuild it.
I can get a block for $150(it needs sleeveing).is this wise?
a rebuild kit,pistons,bearing,gasket for $800
I work for a truck dealership,have rebuilte engines myself
so labour not such a big issue.
Any suggestions would be great.
Cheer Ian.
i've just vented the block on my TD42,iwas doing 60klm in 4th gear
and bang.
So the question is,
Do i source a second hand engine and hope that its all ok?.
I can get a second hand engine for $3000.
or
Do i rebuild it.
I can get a block for $150(it needs sleeveing).is this wise?
a rebuild kit,pistons,bearing,gasket for $800
I work for a truck dealership,have rebuilte engines myself
so labour not such a big issue.
Any suggestions would be great.
Cheer Ian.
GQ LWB TD42 Turbo,(ps.water does not compress.)
Re: One blown TD42!!!
you have answered this yourself I reckon.meiamaro wrote: I can get a block for $150
so labour not such a big issue.
Or from Brunswick (to suit 4.5 petrol auto)
A general Breakdown ie Basic conversion as requested.
Fully rebuilt 6.5 V8 Diesel including fittment , exhaust, mounts, hoses,
pulleys, fuel system, glow system, tacho, ratio box & gear, rewire starter
etc $16,500.00
extreme valve body and super low stall torque convertor to suit TB45e auto $2,000.00 fitted.
Total being $18,500.00
H/Duty options: Custom built copper brass crossflow h/duty radiator
$1,250.00
custom shroud $250.00
Serpentine front inc high volume water pump, Chev fan, new 110amp Alt, vacc
pump, Sanden SD508 A/C Compressor re-pipe and regas $2,000.00
Possible extras $3,500.00
Or from Marks
http://www.marks4wd.com/Projects/6.5%20GQ%20project.htm
The Original Quotation for fitting the 6.5ltr Diesel to 1988 GQ Patrol 4.2 Petrol 5 Speed
Customer Name: Peter Impey
6.5 Fully Rebuilt Engine $9000.00
Adaptor kit $970.00
Mounts $190.00
Flywheel $355.00
Clutch kit $395.00
Oil cooler $450.00
Mount and Drive Kit $1330.00
Alternator (New) $860.00
3" Mandrel Bent Exhaust $1200.00
Extras (see below) $1000.00
Labour $3000.00
Air cleaner assembly and fittings (Donaldson) $550.00
Tachometer drive and tacho calibration
The Engineers Report on this installation cost $650.00 however this can vary due to other modifications such as body lift, suspension, seats etc.
The only part pending on the above price is the radiator. The extra cost for this will depend on the condition of the old unit.
The fully rebuilt engines have 12 months or 20,000-klm warranty. Quotes are valid for 30 days from the above date.
Extras include fuel pump, belts, hoses, engine oil, coolant, fuel filter, oil filter, fuel hoses and clamps, heater hoses and clamps, electrical wiring and connectors, steel, nuts, bolts, paint etc.
Yes! To re-sleeve block is about $600+mickyd555 wrote:I thought it wouldve cost heaps more than $800 to rebuild it........is there anything else you need to spend besides the $800for the rebuild kit and $150 for block?
and then add more for unseen damage ie,crank ect
i have yet to pull her out and strip.
$800 was a month or so ago at trade price.
Will double check tomorrow.
I'm thinking,,,,while i'm at it i might get her balanced, ready for a
bit of a boost upgrade(8/10psi,cooler,more fuel).
Cheers Ian.
GQ LWB TD42 Turbo,(ps.water does not compress.)
how long is a peice of string ... till u open it u won't know what your up for
dasiy (tom) did the full rebuild and resleave theres a tread on it if you do a search
dasiy (tom) did the full rebuild and resleave theres a tread on it if you do a search
H( * )( * )NZ loves B( * )( * )BIES
if a fat lady falls in the forest do the trees laugh?
[quote="RUFF"]although i didnt mean to, i squealed like a girl :armsup:[/quote]
if a fat lady falls in the forest do the trees laugh?
[quote="RUFF"]although i didnt mean to, i squealed like a girl :armsup:[/quote]
It is, the When woopy rebuilt his engine properly he had no change from $8k. that was new sleeves, pistons, rings, cam etc.mickyd555 wrote:I thought it wouldve cost heaps more than $800 to rebuild it..
it would be better to buy a motor from GIANTRACING he had a GU TD42 with turbo advertised for $8k if I remember.
MMMMM? just read whoopy & daisy trilogy,
Will do more homework and take it from there.
Have replaced water pump/fan clutch & re-built starter in past
2 months.
Fuel pump was done not long before i bought it.
Also need to take into account that in 6 weeks the stork
will deliver number 3,and mummy is on maternaty leave.(yay)
Ian
P.S Bruce, did you find out what your pedal /vacume? prob was.(curious).
Will do more homework and take it from there.
Have replaced water pump/fan clutch & re-built starter in past
2 months.
Fuel pump was done not long before i bought it.
Also need to take into account that in 6 weeks the stork
will deliver number 3,and mummy is on maternaty leave.(yay)
Ian
P.S Bruce, did you find out what your pedal /vacume? prob was.(curious).
GQ LWB TD42 Turbo,(ps.water does not compress.)
pongo wrote:[quote="bogged]it would be better to buy a motor from GIANTRACING he had a GU TD42 with turbo advertised for $8k if I remember.
. Cant say anymore. Im trying to keep out of trouble at the moment but i couldnt help myself.[/quote]
Ive missed something i think.(hidden message maybe?)
GQ LWB TD42 Turbo,(ps.water does not compress.)
Not totally sure?
oil & filters every 5k.
She has been turbo'd from 180k now at 370k(got service hist).
My thought is 2months or so ago i got a gut full of water in the fuel tank,
it was enough to stall the engine, this was also in the middle of a river,i have a snorkle and the top air filter was dry.
so we pulled the glow plugs and wound out a fair bit of water,
got her home did 2 oil changes and 6 fuel filters(after draining tank).
And she been going great ever since.
I think she might have bent/weaked a rod, and today was her/my lucky
day. We will see.
Received a few options/idea's so will have to see wich suits me best.
Thanks all.
Ian.
oil & filters every 5k.
She has been turbo'd from 180k now at 370k(got service hist).
My thought is 2months or so ago i got a gut full of water in the fuel tank,
it was enough to stall the engine, this was also in the middle of a river,i have a snorkle and the top air filter was dry.
so we pulled the glow plugs and wound out a fair bit of water,
got her home did 2 oil changes and 6 fuel filters(after draining tank).
And she been going great ever since.
I think she might have bent/weaked a rod, and today was her/my lucky
day. We will see.
Received a few options/idea's so will have to see wich suits me best.
Thanks all.
Ian.
GQ LWB TD42 Turbo,(ps.water does not compress.)
deja vu .. I have heard this exact same story on this board before.meiamaro wrote:Not totally sure?
oil & filters every 5k.
She has been turbo'd from 180k now at 370k(got service hist).
My thought is 2months or so ago i got a gut full of water in the fuel tank,
it was enough to stall the engine, this was also in the middle of a river,i have a snorkle and the top air filter was dry.
so we pulled the glow plugs and wound out a fair bit of water
AdrainGQ put water in his td42. They did the flush thing. But it still cracked the head and bent a rod. drove around for abit before the head became a problem. It never ceased. Just starting using water and running hot.meiamaro wrote:Not totally sure?
oil & filters every 5k.
She has been turbo'd from 180k now at 370k(got service hist).
My thought is 2months or so ago i got a gut full of water in the fuel tank,
it was enough to stall the engine, this was also in the middle of a river,i have a snorkle and the top air filter was dry.
so we pulled the glow plugs and wound out a fair bit of water,
got her home did 2 oil changes and 6 fuel filters(after draining tank).
And she been going great ever since.
I think she might have bent/weaked a rod, and today was her/my lucky
day. We will see.
Received a few options/idea's so will have to see wich suits me best.
Thanks all.
Ian.
My sisters Nissan Bluebird had or has a craked head. It leaks water into the cylinder while sitting still over night. But once you pull the spark plug out and get the water out it runs fine (almost).
So may not be real expensive.
THOUGHT FOR THE DAY....
Yup, I've used a TD27 rod in place of a TD42 one when I bent a rod due to getting a lung full of water. Truck is still going strong (will be 2 yrs ago tomorrow) with aftermarket turbo and fuel pump.I know i'm up for a conrod and read before that a td27 conrod was the same just cheaper, can anyone confirm this?
Ian that is a shocker and out of the blue also you can at least look forward to an engine that's good for yonks when done, ban the water crossings! Whats the go with water into the tank, how does that happen?
Anyway with regard to your turbo, it may not have happened without one of those devilish devices....... to save future hassles like this and do something different, you will be taking it off anyway, what about donating it to the closest board member with say........a gold patrol
Good luck with it let me know if there is anything I can help with, buggered if I know what that could be though.
Whens the next trip to Laura? I'm probably in if invited again but wary (extra) of those water crossings now!!
cheers fnq
Anyway with regard to your turbo, it may not have happened without one of those devilish devices....... to save future hassles like this and do something different, you will be taking it off anyway, what about donating it to the closest board member with say........a gold patrol
Good luck with it let me know if there is anything I can help with, buggered if I know what that could be though.
Whens the next trip to Laura? I'm probably in if invited again but wary (extra) of those water crossings now!!
cheers fnq
*JUST LUV IT* 96 GQ LWB TD4.2, Cav, Kings, Dobinsons, Motorguard, Enginesaver, 400 pro, Cooper ST's (rolls eyes), fleetguard oil filters, Delo 400 engine oil, Delo ESI gearbox oil and an RTC.
Bugger!meiamaro wrote:Not totally sure?
oil & filters every 5k.
She has been turbo'd from 180k now at 370k(got service hist).
My thought is 2months or so ago i got a gut full of water in the fuel tank,
it was enough to stall the engine, this was also in the middle of a river,i have a snorkle and the top air filter was dry.
so we pulled the glow plugs and wound out a fair bit of water,
got her home did 2 oil changes and 6 fuel filters(after draining tank).
And she been going great ever since.
I think she might have bent/weaked a rod, and today was her/my lucky
day. We will see.
Received a few options/idea's so will have to see wich suits me best.
Thanks all.
Ian.
Sounds like a bit of bad luck.
KRiS
Whats the go with water into the tank, how does that happen?
Easy,
The w#ker/moron who fitted the LR fuel tank coil the breather
and left it on top of tank......number 1.
number......2 the fuel cap o'ring was not proud enough to seal
the spout properly and after a few deep,long water crossings
on saturday she got a gut full.
So sunday comes and the fuel has rised above the water in the tank,
we go for a drive a few more crossings and the fuel in the lines has been
used and replaced with good old H2o. She desides to stop,3/4 the way accross sth palmer river.yeppie
Have since rectified these issues and also found the snorkle is not
air tight.
So people check everything someone else does or it can cost you.
Ian.
Easy,
The w#ker/moron who fitted the LR fuel tank coil the breather
and left it on top of tank......number 1.
number......2 the fuel cap o'ring was not proud enough to seal
the spout properly and after a few deep,long water crossings
on saturday she got a gut full.
So sunday comes and the fuel has rised above the water in the tank,
we go for a drive a few more crossings and the fuel in the lines has been
used and replaced with good old H2o. She desides to stop,3/4 the way accross sth palmer river.yeppie
Have since rectified these issues and also found the snorkle is not
air tight.
So people check everything someone else does or it can cost you.
Ian.
GQ LWB TD42 Turbo,(ps.water does not compress.)
Get a compression check!mickyd555 wrote:all these stories about water in fuel tanks is making me nervous.........ive had it, but its been running fine since i drained the tank apart from clowing white smoke when its ultra cold..............
White smoke when cold is what i have had since water issue.
Cheers Ian.
GQ LWB TD42 Turbo,(ps.water does not compress.)
i dont like you anymore.......meiamaro wrote:Get a compression check!mickyd555 wrote:all these stories about water in fuel tanks is making me nervous.........ive had it, but its been running fine since i drained the tank apart from clowing white smoke when its ultra cold..............
White smoke when cold is what i have had since water issue.
Cheers Ian.
this doesnt sound good.................... pig pen
Sorry
Does this mean no more snuggles.
If you have any water left over you will get white smoke on start up,
i was told it sits on the end of your injector tips as a drip.
When you start it you get white puff untill raw fuel is pushed through.
If the engine is left to sit it can cause corrosion on the injector tip.
but if you use it daily it SHOULD be fine.
Can anyone confirm this.
Ian.
ps. i hope all is good.
Does this mean no more snuggles.
If you have any water left over you will get white smoke on start up,
i was told it sits on the end of your injector tips as a drip.
When you start it you get white puff untill raw fuel is pushed through.
If the engine is left to sit it can cause corrosion on the injector tip.
but if you use it daily it SHOULD be fine.
Can anyone confirm this.
Ian.
ps. i hope all is good.
GQ LWB TD42 Turbo,(ps.water does not compress.)
maybe one last cuddle, but after that, thats it..........It doesnt get driven that much, but it has been over a year since it happend and its still going....Im about to dump a whole lot of money in it to get it to comp spec, so i think the bill might have just gotten bigger........meiamaro wrote:Sorry
Does this mean no more snuggles.
If you have any water left over you will get white smoke on start up,
i was told it sits on the end of your injector tips as a drip.
When you start it you get white puff untill raw fuel is pushed through.
If the engine is left to sit it can cause corrosion on the injector tip.
but if you use it daily it SHOULD be fine.
Can anyone confirm this.
Ian.
ps. i hope all is good.
I would say something would have happened by now,lucky bugger.
Get the compression checked if all is ok,spend money elsewere.
Up to comp spec....Details,build ups and pictures are required!!!!
Did think of the same(comp spec) type of set up,but up here
there are no comps so not really worth the effort or money.
Ian.
Get the compression checked if all is ok,spend money elsewere.
Up to comp spec....Details,build ups and pictures are required!!!!
Did think of the same(comp spec) type of set up,but up here
there are no comps so not really worth the effort or money.
Ian.
GQ LWB TD42 Turbo,(ps.water does not compress.)
We will prob go again later in the year,will let you know,you are invitedfnqcairns wrote: Whens the next trip to Laura? I'm probably in if invited again but wary (extra) of those water crossings now!!
cheers fnq
it will be dryer this time(better be $$$$$).
We are also looking at Irvenbank/Herberton area,Any ideas?
Cheers Ian.
GQ LWB TD42 Turbo,(ps.water does not compress.)
TD 42 is easy to rebuild, but expensive if you use Nissan parts. I had a tool made up to remove cylinder liners. Old ones were very difficult to remove, but new ones just tapped in. The new liners were the most expensive bit-- 6@$190 each. Cylinder head recon was expensive as i had all the precomp chambers replaced and valves. There was no cracks in the cylinder head in any of the common spots. Replacing the cam bearings is very difficult --you really need to make a copy of the factory tool so the oil feed holes are aligned properly. Despite the factory bits being relatively expensive, everything fitted perfectly without any problems during the rebuild--piston to bore clearance ended up being spot on in all cylinders. I was able to source the 'NDC' fact spec main bearings else where for much cheaper than dealer price..
Nick
P.S Engine complete is veery heavy --make sure your crane/lifting tackle is up to the weight.
Nick
P.S Engine complete is veery heavy --make sure your crane/lifting tackle is up to the weight.
Hi Ian, we went for a Sunday drive out there 6 weeks ago, saw one outerlimits worthy hill climb, will PM with what little I know about the area.
Bugger about the not finished fuel tank, good lesson for all.
cheers fnq
Bugger about the not finished fuel tank, good lesson for all.
cheers fnq
*JUST LUV IT* 96 GQ LWB TD4.2, Cav, Kings, Dobinsons, Motorguard, Enginesaver, 400 pro, Cooper ST's (rolls eyes), fleetguard oil filters, Delo 400 engine oil, Delo ESI gearbox oil and an RTC.
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