GQ front recovery points advice

[Dee]

J Top,

Have you tested/know the breaking point of the hayman reece hitch reciever shown above?

http://www.4x4store.com.au/Tow-Hitch-Re ... 71097.html

[RoldIT]

Kris the reciever hitch loads the pin next to its support, whereas if you put a rope in the middle of the pin I suspect it will bend the pin at high loads and may make removal difficult
J Top

I agree. But I'd rather a farked towbar than piece of recovery steel hanging out of my mate's forehead.

[J Top]

Hi DEEV8
Our club does not allow any tow points except rated hooks that are forged and should open when overloaded. This is to prevent missiles.
Shackles have to break if the rope doesn't, it is hard to police who is using what shackle/equipment in a recovery whereas if every one has an approved hook with an approved mounting it is just hook on the rope.
If you are in deep mud or water it is easy to lose shackles/pins when hooking on, instead just find the hook and put the rope on
J Top

[MAVRK-4]

Something like this patrol front recovery point on ebay, $55, from what I read once before these are I believe 10mm thick steel plate and bolt in place of standard hook

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Patrol-Front-Rec ... dZViewItem

On the rear I use a Big Balls Receiver Hitch...$60
http://www.bbmotorsports.com.au/prod2216.htm

[fnqcairns]

Mavrk-4 I was also going to post that ebay link also, I emailed the seller and he checked with the manufacturer to find it's rating, 10000lb and 10mm thick.
So if I have it right a rating is safe working load?????? and therefore the break should be like x4??????.
Anyone know how that really works?

cheers fnq

[bogged]

Kris the reciever hitch loads the pin next to its support, whereas if you put a rope in the middle of the pin I suspect it will bend the pin at high loads and may make removal difficult
J Top

I have heard of this, but have never seen it.. have recovered people dozens of times by putting the snatch into the hayman and pin through.. its also the way its taught at driver training in Vic.

[Potter]

I have heard of this, but have never seen it.. have recovered people dozens of times by putting the snatch into the hayman and pin through.. its also the way its taught at driver training in Vic.

thats the same in Qld i did a driver training course last year..

[quote][/quote]

[Justin_M]

The previous owner of my patrol kindly fitted the hayman reece with a grade 8 pin made by cat. Ive done some big snatches off it and its yet to show any signs of fatigue.

[fnqcairns]

Just to update the thread and say thanks for the help and suggestions, yesterday I fitted my recovery points. As a result of Jtops testing (great info) I will also fit a Black Rat crome hook to each plate where the holes are pre drilled.

cheers fnq

http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h35/f ... /69087.jpg



http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h35/f ... /69187.jpg

[Jimbo]

I have bolted on a couple of rated hooks i bought from 4wd1.biz They are meant to be rated at 10,000lb. Now i'm a little worried cause i have bolted them on to my ARB winchbar and the steel doesnt seem that thick (They are on the verticle section of the bar next to the head lights (GQ)) The guy at arb told me to bolt them there. Anyone else done this?

Jimmy

[KIWI]

I wouldn't have thought that would be strong at all I would only attach them to the chassis directly, or via an adaptor plate which is attached to the chassis

[meiamaro]

I know a place we can test them out

Are you game.

[Jimbo]

I could probably test them at uni but not game. Does any1 know where i'm talking about? There are 2 verticle sections on teh bar on the inside of both headlights. The steel here is thicker than the rest of the bar but not that thick. I bought the bar new and it came with these holes pre drilled and the recovery hooks bolted right up.

Thanks ppl

Jimmy


PS: I have never recovered from these points...actually i have never used my snatch strap. If i get bogged and i'm with my mate i just winch off the rear of his patrol. I feel much safer using a winch rather then a strap.

[Rhysta]

Just to update the thread and say thanks for the help and suggestions, yesterday I fitted my recovery points. As a result of Jtops testing (great info) I will also fit a Black Rat crome hook to each plate where the holes are pre drilled.

cheers fnq

http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h35/f ... /69087.jpg



http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h35/f ... /69187.jpg

So who is it that makes these?

The previous link isnt working anymore.

Rhys

[Cossie]

Just to update the thread and say thanks for the help and suggestions, yesterday I fitted my recovery points. As a result of Jtops testing (great info) I will also fit a Black Rat crome hook to each plate where the holes are pre drilled.

cheers fnq

http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h35/f ... /69087.jpg



http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h35/f ... /69187.jpg

So who is it that makes these?

The previous link isnt working anymore.

Rhys

They are made by Outback Ideas, see previous page for details.

[fnqcairns]

I bought mine form here http://stores.ebay.com.au/Essential-4wd-and-Outdoor

For anyone thinking about fitting the same plates this is how I did it, feel free to improve on it, but let me know how.

The RHS fitting uses 3 new HT bolts the same diameter and thread/pitch although 10mm longer (now 40mm) than standard, this also allows HT washers, spring washers etc to be used. The nuts for this side are the standard captive ones already plated inside the member as this is where the standard Nissan Hook used to live.

The LHS has only clearance holes in the chassis member, I used fine threaded 16mm HT 50mm bolts and cut the standard RHS Nissan Hook's plate away (as the holes are already drilled) and used that as the backing plate inside chassis member along with HT nuts,HT spring washers and also HT washers both sides.

Cost for all the HT stuff was $60.00, from an expensive place.

Hey Ian! Look forward to it, but be warned I still have 2 unused chicken cards in the glove box, and I am not afraid to use them

cheers fnq

[meiamaro]

[Hey Ian! Look forward to it, but be warned I still have 2 unused chicken cards in the glove box, and I am not afraid to use them

cheers fnq[/quote]

No fair!!!
Did they come with the pretty hooks?

Ian.

[aawen4x4]

Having a hook straighten rather than breaking something is one of the reasons that you should always use a HOOK for snatch and tow recovery, and keep SHACKLES for the lesser shock load of winch recoveries. The recievers with a shackle attached are still able to strip the thread in the shackle and that leaves the bow of the shackle heading towards someone's windscreen at 500 kph!! Attaching shackles to holes in the botttom of bull bars (no matter how reinforced) and mounted plates still leaves the same issue, and I've seen them break of the bull bar eye just a little further up from the welded on reinforced section!!

So if you are going to do a snatch or tow recovery, use a rated HOOK or pintle, never a shackle!

[fnqcairns]

That's more or less the plan aawen, although I had not thought about shackle threads letting go! I guess the plan is if a shackle must be used for any situation then make sure it is a quality big heavy rated one.

It's a shame that the unsuspecting public can walk into a 4wd store and buy a snatch strap rated at 8T in one hand and a hook that will break not bend and become a missile at 6T (best case scenario) in the other hand. Should be a law against it IMO.

cheers fnq